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12v or 6v

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Snowturtle View Drop Down
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    Posted: 08 May 2017 at 11:56pm
I can't figure out if the 47 CJ-2A I'm buying is 12v or 6v. I've been storing it for a friend for years and took the battery out a long time ago. I'm pretty positive that it was a 12v, especially since I don't seem to have a 6v battery anywhere around here. He parked it here when it quit starting. I was able to bypass the solenoid at the time to move it to where I wanted it so I'm pretty sure that was the problem. But now, after a couple of years of sitting, I put in a battery and hook up a new solenoid and get nothing. Now I'm questioning myself because everything looks like the original 6v stuff to me - generator (no numbers or plates on it), voltage regulator, wiring seems to match old diagrams - all with the exception of no foot starter, newer ignition switch with start position, fender mount solenoid, and 12v headlights. What's going on here? Was a 12v generator an option at one point?

I'm brand new, I'll try to figure out how to post photos.


Edited by Snowturtle - 08 May 2017 at 11:58pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snowturtle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 12:26am
I think I have the photo thing figured out...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1947-cj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 12:48am
I would think it would be a 12v since it has the generator in it, but the things on the fender, I don't think all that is how the were wired.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LUIS MORALES Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 12:49am
hello. i´m not sure about the gen. it can be a 6 or 12 volt. but that solenoid is a continuous duty,  need be grounded the second terminal.
 the 6v starter can support short term use in 12 volt but is better apply correct voltage. 
 
good look. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snowturtle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 12:56am
So is that the wrong solenoid? That is the only thing that has been changed since my friend used to start and drive it regularly. Or is it just hooked up wrong?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LUIS MORALES Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 1:03am
well, its OK if the battery and solenoid are the same voltage. just connect the second small terminal to ground and the other terminal to start switch,  you have to check that the starter its not seized

 



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snowturtle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 1:16am
This basically how mine is wired, except that I have a solenoid inline between the battery & the starter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote minnow1193 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 12:58pm
Check the body of the coil to see if it is marked 6v or 12v.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snowturtle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 1:26pm
Thanks, I'll check that
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 1:31pm
How many cells does the battery have? 3 its 6V 6 its 12V
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 3:04pm
Looks like 12v from the slim pic of the battery ran the same system on my 482a for years 6v and 12v but what's really bothering me is the way the pos. side terminal is too close to the grounded fender, better turn the battery around or put a piece of rubber in between. Joe Wadoyado
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 3:11pm
The voltage should be stamped on the under side of the voltage regulator.  Unbolt it and look on the bottom of the regulator.  It will be stamped into the metal or rubber stamped on it.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67charger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 May 2017 at 4:19pm
Looks like you have a ford starting set up from the 60's, like a mustang would have.  The starter relay can ground itself to the fender through the mounting tab, if the jeep has a good body ground to battery.  The safe bet would be to run a wire off the mounting tab straight to the negative terminal on the battery.  The little wire should be coming from the S terminal on your key switch to the S terminal on the fender mounted  starter relay.  All that the little wire does is open a switch in the starter relay and engage a large switch that sends current directly from the battery to the starter.  If its 6 volt I don't know if it will work right.

To make a long post short, you could have a bad starter relay, I have gotten one bad right out of the box haha.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snowturtle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2017 at 3:00am
Thanks for all of the input! I was trying all of that and got so frustrated that I threw the solenoid in the woods! I will pick up a 3-post solenoid and a new ignition switch tomorrow and rewire everything from scratch. 

The battery in there is one that I had, not sure if it's what was in there before. I don't have any 6v batteries in my shed so I really doubt I took one out of there. Previous owner believes the Jeep was 12v. I'll double-check the voltage regulator and the coil tomorrow to be sure.

If the Jeep is 12v, can I go back to a simple foot switch or was that just for the 6v system?

One new issue - why did it act like I had the cables crossed when I tried to jump it tonight? I am positive that it is negative ground, I can see the negative cable bolted to the frame & the positive to the solenoid.





Edited by Snowturtle - 12 May 2017 at 3:02am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snowturtle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2017 at 3:05am
Originally posted by wadoyado wadoyado wrote:

Looks like 12v from the slim pic of the battery ran the same system on my 482a for years 6v and 12v but what's really bothering me is the way the pos. side terminal is too close to the grounded fender, better turn the battery around or put a piece of rubber in between. Joe Wadoyado

Wadoyado, I see what you're talking about. I switched the battery out to a different one that fit in the bracket better and doesn't have a side terminal. Thanks for catching that.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67charger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2017 at 1:31pm
Did it start rolling over when you were jumping it when hooking up the battery?  If it was trying to rollover, there might not be enough voltage going through the starter relay, making the starter engage without turning the key.  For some reason those relays when the battery is dead or not full 12 volts it can make the relay contacts close.
 
12 volt foot starter:
I used a ford starter relay on my jeep.  I wired the dash key switch to only power the coil in the "run" position.  I bought a push button switch and mounted it to the floor where the old foot starter would be.  I wired that switch so power coming from the fuse box goes to one terminal on the switch and the outgoing terminal wire goes to the starter solenoid.  When you push the button down with your foot it energizes the starter relay which then opens the switch between the battery and starter.  Its a safer way of wiring because the push button switch only has a couple amps running through it.  To start my jeep you turn the key to "run" and push the button on the floor to activate the starter.  What is great is it looks stock.


Edited by 67charger - 12 May 2017 at 3:53pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 2017 at 4:47pm
Originally posted by 67charger 67charger wrote:

Did it start rolling over when you were jumping it when hooking up the battery?  If it was trying to rollover, there might not be enough voltage going through the starter relay, making the starter engage without turning the key.  For some reason those relays when the battery is dead or not full 12 volts it can make the relay contacts close.
 
12 volt foot starter:
I used a ford starter relay on my jeep.  I wired the dash key switch to only power the coil in the "run" position.  I bought a push button switch and mounted it to the floor where the old foot starter would be.  I wired that switch so power coming from the fuse box goes to one terminal on the switch and the outgoing terminal wire goes to the starter solenoid.  When you push the button down with your foot it energizes the starter relay which then opens the switch between the battery and starter.  Its a safer way of wiring because the push button switch only has a couple amps running through it.  To start my jeep you turn the key to "run" and push the button on the floor to activate the starter.  What is great is it looks stock.


Bolding & underlining mine.

"which then opens the switch between the battery and starter."
I am sure that you meant to say "which then closes the switch between the battery & the starter." As I am sure you know, opening a relay or switch stops current from flowing. Closing said switch or relay allows current to flow.

Lets not confuse the folks on here that are just learning about the electrical circuits that are in our Willys. It can take a while to figure out the terminology used for electrical circuits. I know that you do not mean to confuse some folks.

IHTH, Cpt Logger.

PS. I am also curious about the results from jumping the relay.

Edited to add the PS.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Snowturtle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2017 at 4:26am
So I worked on the Jeep for a long time today. I disconnected all wires and continuity tested them to see what went where. I also left the 4 post solenoid in the woods and installed a 3 post. The wire that was supposed to go to power was going to ground, so that explains my problem when I was trying to jumpstart it. I left some extraneous wires off of the ignition switch and hooked everything up correctly. I finally got the starter to click when I turned the key. So I tried jumping it again and still just a click from the starter. Next, I took the starter out and tried to spin it with jumper cables and get nothing, just sparks. I hooked the negative to the body of the starter and touched the positive to the post - is that correct? Maybe the starter is bad now. I'll take it to Napa for bench testing.

In all this, I officially confirmed that it has been converted to 12v from 6v because there were a couple of converters (I don't know the correct name) under the dash - one going to the fuel gauge and one going to the heater fan, which has 6v stamped on it.

I also figured out that it has a CJ3a windshield on it. Is that slightly taller than a CJ2a windshield frame? Anyone know where I can find a used windshield instead of a foreign after-market?

Thanks SO much for all the advice!

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