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1946 CJ2A #30381 |
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Matt Gillis 
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Joined: 19 Aug. 2014 Location: Kingston, NY Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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 Topic: 1946 CJ2A #30381Posted: 07 Jan. 2016 at 2:17am |
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Hi! I am new to owning an old Jeep and I have lots to learn! I have always wanted a 2A or 3A and have been looking for the last 5 or 6 years for the right starter Jeep and never encountered the “right one”. That changed this past October, searching through our regions Craigs, list this one came up – everything sounded good when I talked with the owner and I went with cash and an empty trailer – returned home with our new family member – a 1946 CJ2A. Serial #303XX. 73k miles. Column shift, split windshield and no “bubba mods”. It has 12v battery and lights with resistors for the 6v starter. My wife and I want to use this as a fun driver a few times a week – our two boys love riding around in the back with the dogs! Aside from the roll cage, 30 inch tires and the bright yellow paint – everything appears to be original. I wanted to share the photos with the group and see what you thought of her. Does it look correct? Right now she is in a heated garage (mother in laws) for the winter – I am the third owner and she has never been exposed to road salt, I don’t want to be the one to do that… The body is ok – lots of ”new” sheet metal and rivets on the original tub – the tool box under the seat is one big hole to the ground under the lid. The items I want to have addressed/added are: 1) Seat belts for the kids 2) Turn signals – the drivers in NY have no clue what hand signals are except for the single finger in the air… 3) Second gear syncro – you have to hold the selector in second or it pops out – pretty annoying when in traffic 4) Brakes - swap the front drum brakes to disk brakes for more stopping power. What do you think of something like: http://hermtheoverdriveguy.com/?page_id=1543 http://www.kaiserwillys.com/product/2938/disc-brake-conversion http://www.the-jeep-guy.com/brakes.htm - the full front kit http://shop.rp4wd.com/product/kits-disc-5 5) At some point in its life, the bypass oil filter was removed – I’m thinking of adding it back in. 6) The air filter is not original – what do you recommend?? That is it to start with! Please let me know your thoughts or recommendations on my project list. Thanks, Matt
Edited by Matt Gillis - 15 Mar. 2016 at 1:27am |
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Matt Gillis
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Joined: 19 Aug. 2014 Location: Kingston, NY Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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Posted: 07 Jan. 2016 at 2:22am |
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Here are a few more of the engine
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chasendeer
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Joined: 24 Feb. 2012 Location: Napa,CA Status: Offline Points: 1086 |
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Posted: 07 Jan. 2016 at 4:02am |
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Very nice jeep. On the disc brakes, Herm and Kaiser are the same kit. Buy from Herm for less.
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mbullism
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Posted: 07 Jan. 2016 at 4:08am |
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Hi Matt, congrats on the new buggy! I think youre on the right track going after safety and reliability items first.
Have you pulled tub and tailgate ACM numbers yet? The biggest non original bodywork item I see (beyond the rivets  ) is the lack of a tailgate and front fender steps. Biggest mechanical item may be the engine... I think some replacement engines were painted red. I too have the second gear pop out issue, and am currently rebuilding a tranny to swap in... it can be annoying. Looking forward to more pics as you move forward- MB |
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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Matt Gillis
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Joined: 19 Aug. 2014 Location: Kingston, NY Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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Posted: 07 Jan. 2016 at 4:33am |
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I am new to this - where would I find those numbers? There is no tailgate on this - lots of sheet metal riveted in place - the sheet metal covers where the gate would have been. I know the engine was pulled approx 10 years ago and bored 60 thousandths and it was painted at that point.
Fascinating trying to pull its history together... Thanks, Matt |
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Mark W.
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Posted: 07 Jan. 2016 at 6:32am |
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Serial number should be on the tag upper right corner of the firewall. Frame number on the left frame to the rear of the bumper gusset.
The tub been shaved with the top bow pockets and the rear top bow sockets removed Interesting that the tool indents seen on so many 46s and even a few 47s arent showing Oh now I see it looks as if the tub has been skinned over with sheet metal. That could end up a problem depending on how it was done creating layers for water to collect in and cause rust. Edited by Mark W. - 07 Jan. 2016 at 4:20pm |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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rocnroll
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Posted: 07 Jan. 2016 at 2:08pm |
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Tool indents on a '47 ?
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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mbullism
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Posted: 07 Jan. 2016 at 5:02pm |
As noted, SN on the firewall (303xx?), same number should be on the Willys body tag next to the SN tag... that number should also be on the frame tag mentioned. The ACM number will be stamped on the toe board gusset (and would have been on the tailgate). These wont match the SN, but there is an accepted range that will give you an idea if the tub is original. It wont prove it is, but could prove it's not ;) . I cant quite make out the ESN in your pics, the number stamped in the block just above the water pump, in front of the engine head. Again, not a SN match but an accepted range thing. Doing a search here for any of these numbers should return better descriptions, history, ranges, etc. You can compare what you can document to the database here for similar SN numbered 2A's here: I think part of the fun is trying to sort them out, even before you put a wrench to them  MB ETA: if you go to the database, the pictures on most column headings will expand if you click on them to give more info on where or how...
Edited by mbullism - 07 Jan. 2016 at 7:35pm |
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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Matt Gillis
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Joined: 19 Aug. 2014 Location: Kingston, NY Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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Posted: 08 Jan. 2016 at 2:18am |
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That looks like a fun project to pull all the numbers - thanks for sending the link! I will look this weekend and start gathering the data and get it in the database.
I have a photo of the firewall tags - the tub number matches the serial number - so it is original?? This is a big puzzle piece! I ordered an oil bath air cleaner this morning so I can get rid of the paper cartridge filter that is on there. Matt |
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mbullism
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Posted: 08 Jan. 2016 at 12:36pm |
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From some ive seen and read, the willys body number matching the SN tag means only that
 Between repop tags, PO's swapping tags onto tubs to "clear up" title issues, etc., without documentation or a clear history ya kinda have to take all of information you can gather and see if it fits generally... if the tub acm number fits the range for your SN thats about all you can shoot for... and why the database can be such a help. Think of it this way... if someone in the last 70 years replaced that tub instead of reskinning it, and they swapped the firewall tags over so as not to screw up their reg and title... would you know? The ACM may help sort it out... past that, you have to start looking for minor manufacturing differences that may help nail things down. A lot can happen in 70 years, lol. Or, ya could just drive it, lol. It's fun to research, but they're meant to drive... or both
Edited by mbullism - 08 Jan. 2016 at 2:00pm |
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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Matt Gillis
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Joined: 19 Aug. 2014 Location: Kingston, NY Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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Posted: 12 Jan. 2016 at 6:01pm |
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I was able to pull some of the numbers this weekend:
Serial number, frame number and firewall body numbers all match. Gear driven cam Block casting date: 1 22 with the clock style Engine casting number: 641087 - L - W4A N1 - CR - N2 Engine Serial number behind water pump: J-93276 Head casting number: 800376 Head casting date: 5 6/16 - this was a little confusing - it was not in the format like the registry?? There was also a 6.48.C number underneath the head casting number. Carter W-O carb MZ-4113 starter I did not get under it to get axle, transmission and transfer case numbers -that will be later on. Is there a chart that I can compare these number to to check out the date ranges to see if it falls into the correct time frame? Thanks, Matt |
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Mark W.
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Posted: 12 Jan. 2016 at 6:43pm |
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The 6.48 number is your compression ratio that the head is cut for.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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mbullism
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Posted: 12 Jan. 2016 at 7:47pm |
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The ESN "J93276" is way too high for your SN of 303XX... The "J" sounds like a 2A engine, just later than your '46. 1947?
If you go to the data base: SN casting ESN SN30265 (638632) J31155 SN303XX (641087) J93276 SN30454 ( ) J31475 SN30700 (638632) J31884 SN89466 (641087?)J91543 SN303XX (641087) J93276 SN96847 (641087?)J99061 A successful heart transplant
Edited by mbullism - 12 Jan. 2016 at 8:29pm |
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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Matt Gillis
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Joined: 19 Aug. 2014 Location: Kingston, NY Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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Posted: 03 Mar. 2016 at 6:26pm |
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I have been ordering replacement parts - mainly gaskets and rebuild kits.
Cleaned some "new" steering knuckles and painted them (have un-reinforced on the axle now). Doing a rebuild on the shift tower - will open up the transmission to see what the guts looks like. Disk brake kit for the front axle just arrived from Herm. Going to be a busy time...
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Matt Gillis
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Joined: 19 Aug. 2014 Location: Kingston, NY Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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Posted: 15 Mar. 2016 at 1:33am |
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Floor shifter is now back together with new poppet balls, springs and a
good cleaning/scrubbing of the other parts. The one shift rail was
rotated to the non worn side to have a fresh surface when re-installed.
Now, just to get it on the transmission!
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Woody1969
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Posted: 19 Mar. 2016 at 2:31pm |
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Hi Matt what size tires ar you running did you have much trouble getting rims to match the bolt pattern? Also what modifications if any were done to the steering. TIA. I am going for a similar look as yours
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Matt Gillis
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Joined: 19 Aug. 2014 Location: Kingston, NY Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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Posted: 19 Mar. 2016 at 8:27pm |
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Woody -
The tires in that photo are 31x10.5 - I have since switched them to 30x9.5. The rims are what came with it - they are 15in rims - no idea the vintage. I'm having disks put on the front axle, new master cylinder and proportioning valve and lines - they have no problem fitting under the rims. The Steering is the original Ross box - is still nice and tight - no extra work has been done. I hope this helps? Matt |
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Matt Gillis
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Posted: 29 July 2016 at 2:47pm |
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This project is slowly getting back on track!
I had disks put on the front axle. The stopping power is incredible. I am much more comfortable with my wife driving with the kids in it now that it can really stop.  I pulled the paper air filter off from the prior owner and cleaned up an old oaks filter and put it on.  Also cleaned up a chaff screen and am using that.  It is so much fun running around town with this. She is run almost every day now - I am skipping the rainy days though. Matt |
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Matt Gillis wrote:
