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46 2A column shift

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Frank View Drop Down
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    Posted: 11 Apr. 2015 at 3:37am
Hello,
 
I am currently wrestling with the column shift on my 2A. Just above the steering box, there is an assembly type collar that the shifter shaft ride in. I think my collar needs some attention, as the shifter hangs up in first gear most of the time. Does anyone have a parts blowup of this collar or whatever is the correct term for it ? It may well be worn very badly due to poor shifting techniqes of previous owners.
 
In order to shift it from first to second, you have to hold the gear shift arm on the column, kind of pull back on it, then try to go to second gear. The shift linkage has been adjusted on the collar with a pin through both shifter levers and and matching the clevis pins et al to the holes on the tranmission shift ears.
 
Any insight, illustrations or whatever would be very helpful.
 
Thank you in advance,
 
Frank
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Adrian View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adrian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr. 2015 at 5:38am
Frank,

There should be a small spring at the top end that holds the lever in the 2/3 gear line, is that has rusted away it would cause things to go a bit mad.

I would disconnect the complete unit from the steering column and strip it down on the work bench.

The lower end pin that engages each selector might also be floating around inside the unit, mine was cracked which caused a lot of play, just needed to reweld it inside the shaft.

There is only supposed to be 009" clearance in the bottom end, between the pin and selectors.

There are some blown up pictures on the Page showing it all apart, it a very simple set up.

Strip it down and post some photos, my guess is you will see the problem as soon as you have it all apart.

Adrian


1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr. 2015 at 3:16pm
Adrian,
 
Thank you for the information and the links. I will give it a go this afternoon as the SOMVCC has a Parade in Medford to do late morning. Ah yes, Orygun sunshine (rain) seems to be the norm for parades here.
 
I can hardly wait to deleve into this shifter issue with all the good information you provided and thanks to the individuals who supplied the information as well.
 
This is one heck of a page and a great group of people who want to help others out.
 
Frank
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr. 2015 at 3:49pm
Adrian,
 
Yesterday afternoon (Thursday 16 Ap 15), I was able to remove the shifting assembly from the column, dropping the steering column and then down through the floorboard. What I found was some previous owner had welded the pin onto the "shifting shaft", using the lower end of the shaft hole as a weld point. After much deliberation (using a kind word here), the weld was removed and the pin came out. Inspection of the area slots where the pin would go into to, revealed the arm slots have been worn, kind leaving this area with a larger "pin slot" area on one of the arms then the other.
 
Is is possible to build up these worn areas using a wire feed welder, then filing the repaired area closer to what it should be ? The pin square area is quite worn, how or where can a new pin be fabricated or found. I do not know where better shifting arms could be found, hence the idea of building up the worn slot areas using a wire feed welder.
 
Any assistance or advice would be greating appreciated,
 
Frank
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adrian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr. 2015 at 9:18pm
Frank

The pin should be welded, mine was cracked and the pin could move around inside the tube, this caused a lot of the problem with a very loose shift.

I made a new pin from 10mm key steel, one end of the pin should be square and the other round, the square end fits nicely into the dog slots on each shifter arm....yes it will be 3/8 keysteel, but 10mm is just slightly bigger and it all fitted better.

You can weld up and dress everything back to the shape it was supposed to be.....don't panic about breaking the weld to get it all apart, its the only way that you can completely strip it down.

I have the original beaten up pin sitting on the shelf here, to make the new pin I made up a tool to go in the lathe that had a hole the exact size of the diagonal measurement of the square key steel I used, then held it with a small grub screw, then machined the round part to size, it worked a treat.

The hole where the pin goes should also be tidied up, at the end of the day the weld is just securing the pin and would break again of the hole was oversize, ie....the pin was loose in the hole.

PM me if you want too, it was a few years ago since I rebuilt my shifter, but only 48hrs ago since I coupled it all up, its a real nice crisp movement between gears.

Adrian
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1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr. 2015 at 2:48am
Adrian,
 
Wow today may be my lucky day. A friend I used to work with called me out of the blue this afternoon. We of course talked about old times, etc. Anyhow he is familar with the shifting issue as he had a 2A column shift. He also has a lathe and milling machine, so he can build a pin and also build up the pin gate area. He and I are going to get together next week and I will give him the assembly. I have printed out the email pages you had listed for his reference.
 
Thank you for all your help and insight into this issue. Hopefully all will turn out well and it will shift like it is supposed to.
 
Frank
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adrian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Apr. 2015 at 3:33am
Frank

Pleasure to help, just remember to fit the upper lever onto the shaft before you refit and weld the pin, from memory everything else can be put on without any problems.

When you screw the levers in you do them right up and then back them off just enough that they can turn through the arc that they need to to shift ok, ie: a minimal gap between the inside faces of the shift dogs.

The pin as mentioned is square on one end, the other end is round as is the pin where is goes through the shaft, I guess the square end just contacts over a bigger area, in the perfect world both ends could be square but its just cheaper to make it the way they did.

The repro manuals that cover the early 2a do have a section on adjusting the column shifter etc.

Adrian
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1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Frank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2015 at 6:14pm
Adrian,
 
I finally got the refurnished shifter parts back from my friend. I installed the column shift et al in the 46 and went through the gears while the jeep was up on jack stands. First of all, the column shift worked great, what a difference. Thank you for all of your help on this.
 
What I found when the jeep was running on jack stands, the right rear wheel is bent badly, the left front brake drum was almost locked up and the steering box sector shaft bushings were shot.
 
So, I pulled the column shift et al from the steering column, pulled the steering box et al out and am in the process of overhauling the steering box with new bushings reamed out and new sector shaft, etc. The existing bushings in the old steering box and the sector shift were worn beyond specifications. In reality, it was a good thing I found this out prior to getting the 2A on the road.
 
The next issue is the left front brake drum lack of rotation. I have a feeling that as the jeep has sat for 25 years, the wheel cylinder maybe hung up. Once and if I can pull off the brake drum, I can hopefully determine what the issue is. In reality, I probably should replace all the wheel cylinders and the master cylinder as well as the original rubber brake hoses. I think it would be a good idea due to the amount of time the jeep has sat unused.
 
The bent left rear wheel will also be replaced.
 
Thanks again for all of your expertise,
 
Frank
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adrian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2015 at 8:55pm
Frank, pleased you go it all sorted.

Sounds like a seized wheel cylinder on your brakes, it would pay to give them all a birthday.

Post some photo's so we can see what you have got.

Adrian 
1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96
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