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brake drums |
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m allen 
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Joined: 29 Mar. 2015 Location: Louisville, Ky Status: Offline Points: 109 |
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 Topic: brake drumsPosted: 30 June 2015 at 3:56pm |
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I previously added an inquiry to Sgt. Kohler's post of 25 Jun 15. His topic was wheel lugs and indicated he was into a full brake system rebuild as I am. I thought the topic was similar and that it was not a stretch to ask the forum about part numbers for current retailers in an attempt to find least expensive suppliers of quality parts.
If my post was in poor taste or just wrong---I apologize! I am assuming this because no one has come back with one solution concerning my request. The NAPA parts list simply does give me any info upon hitting the search tab. I am sure that all the old timers become tired of us newbies asking the same questions over and over. At any rate, The drums seem to be the bulk of the price of the total kits. Any thoughts???? Any one close to Louisville, Ky. that would share Willy's knowledge with me, please give me phone number. Many thanks to all Mike |
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Michael D. Allen
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rocnroll
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Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Tuscumbia, AL Status: Offline Points: 13606 |
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Posted: 30 June 2015 at 5:03pm |
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When you go to search are you clicking on the Advanced Search when it comes up?.....that's about the only way Search does much is the Advanced Search.
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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63owner
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Joined: 09 Jan. 2011 Location: Owensboro, Ky. Status: Offline Points: 472 |
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Posted: 01 July 2015 at 2:11pm |
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Mike,
I'm in Owensboro, but grew up from Louisville, and still have family there.
I missed your original post.
I'll be glad to help out any way I can although I'm far from being an expert. Feel free to PM me. Maybe we can get together on one of my trips up there to visit my mother, who lives in St. Mathews area. What part of town do you live in?
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cpt logger
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Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3043 |
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Posted: 01 July 2015 at 10:52pm |
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Mike, Please do not ASSuME anything. Ask if you are unsure. I would have to do an advanced search in the NAPA part number thread to answer your original question about part numbers. Since you know what you are looking for, you will do a better job of this than I would. Let us know how it goes.
As a semi-old-timer, I rarely get tired of sharing my knowledge with folks who are new to this hobby/disease. When I do get tired & cranky, instead of replying with a flippant answer, I just do not reply until I am in a better mood. AFAICT, your hijack was/is in line with forum etiquette. No problems, but some folks will only reply to the original question in a thread until the OPs question is answered to his/her satisfaction. Then they may address any additional questions that someone else asked. If you are in a hurry to get your questions answered, it would be best to open your own thread. BTW, NAPA, & any other FLAPS are not always the cheapest & best suppliers of parts. Ron Fitzpatrick in Oregon has a good reputation, as does Herm the Overdrive Guy in (IIRC he is in Idaho). Ron is into the WWII Jeeps. He also carries parts for our CJ-2s &-3s. Herm carries kits to upgrade the brakes for our old Willys. I think that he also has parts for those of us that want to keep the original system. Kaiser-Willys is another supplier. I know nothing about them. Advanced search these forks. IHTH, Cpt Logger. Edited by cpt logger - 01 July 2015 at 10:55pm |
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sgt kohler
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Joined: 17 June 2015 Location: arp, texas Status: Offline Points: 118 |
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Posted: 02 July 2015 at 1:18am |
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mike I bought a couple of drums from Kaiser willys and they are really well made. ive also searched on ebay and there are lots of options there too. they all seem to be running about the same price. just thought I would let you know. peter
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m allen
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Joined: 29 Mar. 2015 Location: Louisville, Ky Status: Offline Points: 109 |
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Posted: 02 July 2015 at 1:40am |
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Thanks for response and info. I am 66 yrs old and not a computer guy. The info in this forum is the best by far. I find a great picture or illustration and then I can't find it again! All my problem. I have been
shown how to copy things to a folder my brother in law set up for me. Sometimes I can remember how to do it!! I just thought that others before me have done a total brake system replacement (expensive proposition) and knew the best sources or part numbers. My son works for Monroe and a part they sell for $125 they get for about $25! Anyway---I live in Middletown which is a couple of miles from St. Matthews. I will Pm you my number. I haven't done that yet, but I think I know how. I will check into the sources you guys offered. I am not looking for cheap prices for cheap junk...I want quality parts and if I can buy wholesale....why not. The suppliers are buying these parts from somewhere. Noticing the Sgt and Cpt--I returned from overseas a Ssg--if we are talking the same thing. Thank you for serving guys. Mike A.
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Michael D. Allen
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sgt kohler
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Joined: 17 June 2015 Location: arp, texas Status: Offline Points: 118 |
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Posted: 02 July 2015 at 1:57am |
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im 65 and thanks to my wife ive learned to shop on the internet. im always checking prices from one vendor to the other. I never got the chance to serve my country as ive always had a hearing loss since childhood. the sgt came from a nickname and kind of stuck for the the last 40 years. I have to say that the brake system overhaul has been on the the high side but its a one time thing. plus the brake lines come prebent and with just a slight bit of tweaking they fit perfect. ive looked at a lot of the new brake drums offered and they all look the same. so it could be there is only one company out there that reproducing them. I test fit mine on the new shoes today and they fit perfect. compared to the old drums these are made much much better for lack of a better word I would say solid with a thicker face.
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m allen
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Joined: 29 Mar. 2015 Location: Louisville, Ky Status: Offline Points: 109 |
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Posted: 02 July 2015 at 12:05pm |
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What about pressing the hubs off the old drums and attaching to the new drums? I have a broken stud on one of mine so I tried a little test beating on it to see if I could budge it...no movement. I can see a press is needed to properly do the job. Are the studs reusable or do the get mangled when pressed out?Mike A
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Michael D. Allen
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TERRY
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Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3400 |
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Posted: 02 July 2015 at 12:50pm |
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The swedge needs to be cut and the studs pressed out. I installed a new rear hub so many years ago that I don't remember if I used new studs or not. Probably did.
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BOULDER 48 2A
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Ritt
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Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Bethel CT Status: Offline Points: 1989 |
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Posted: 02 July 2015 at 1:18pm |
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I put all new studs in since I thought they may not fit as tightly.
I also changed my left handed studs to righties. Defiantly, will need a hefty press and yes, you should use a press.
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Rit
1948 2A, "RAISIN COOKIES THAT LOOK LIKE CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES ARE THE MAIN REASON I HAVE TRUST ISSUES" |
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m allen
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Joined: 29 Mar. 2015 Location: Louisville, Ky Status: Offline Points: 109 |
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Posted: 04 July 2015 at 3:47am |
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OK...all sounds good and logical. Makes sense about using new studs to eliminate looseness. I have seen reference in other posts about the swedge. I know the term very well. I will look in the morning to see if I can see what is swedged and where. I guess I will be looking at the studs to see what was swedged as insurance to hold them tight in place. When the lug nuts are on---where can anything go?
Ritt--Sir your flotation devise appears to be OD in color and that sure does look like Delta in background...not that I could see the delta from the cental highlands...I am just sa'n Great forum and thanks mike a
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Michael D. Allen
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Adrian
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Joined: 01 Oct. 2011 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 1517 |
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Posted: 04 July 2015 at 8:48am |
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I have been following this post, if you support the stud inside a suitable support (just slightly bigger than the stud) is it possible to press the stud out with out doing any damage...OR...
Is it better to grind the back of the stud off and press it towards the outside...ie: continue in the direction it went in....then press new one in from the rear. Adrian
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1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96 |
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rocketeer
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Posted: 04 July 2015 at 1:15pm |
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Press it out the way it went in.
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m allen
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Joined: 29 Mar. 2015 Location: Louisville, Ky Status: Offline Points: 109 |
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Posted: 04 July 2015 at 5:30pm |
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Happy 4th to All!! OK--The swedge is the mushroomed end of the stud. Right? That is a lot of grinding to push them on through when you are talking all four drums. I am not afraid of the work in doing so; I have done worse. I like the idea of supporting inside of drum with a piece of heavy gauge pipe with inside diameter just larger than swedge and pressing out in the opposite direction in which they were installed. I am wondering if it would be wise to buy new rear hubs with the three screws to hold the drums on and those type of new drums. I don't think this is an option for the front. I want my jeep to be flat fender true but not "show" true. It is to be a used with grand kids and milk shakes. It is a frame off restoration. If it is best to up grade the Brake System, now is the time for me to do it. In for a penny, in for a pound! Anybody have serviceable drum measurements from back in the day?? Thanks Mike
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Michael D. Allen
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Adrian
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Joined: 01 Oct. 2011 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 1517 |
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Posted: 04 July 2015 at 9:26pm |
OK, will do, I imagine it will sort of turn inside out if done any other way.... Thanks Adrian
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1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96 |
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Bruce W
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Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9652 |
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Posted: 04 July 2015 at 10:02pm |
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The "mushroomed" end of the stud, inside the drum, is the head of the stud. The swedged part is at the base of the threads, on the outside. If you use brute force to cram the swedged part back thru the hole, whether by press or hammer, I'm afraid the hole will become enlarged and new studs will not fit tightly. Remember, the force is equal on both parts.
Over on the G503, there has been some discussion on this in the past. Some recommend cutting the threaded part of the stud off as close as possible to the hub, then center drilling the stud to a diameter as large as possible, to a depth that will reach past the swedge but not clear thru the head, then using a punch or drift that fits in the hole to drive or press it out. This lets the remains of the stud collapse into the hole and the swedge goes thru the hub without damage. I've never done this, it's only what I've read on the "G". I have destroyed a hub and drum by trying to press the studs out with brute force. HTH. BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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sgt kohler
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Joined: 17 June 2015 Location: arp, texas Status: Offline Points: 118 |
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Posted: 04 July 2015 at 10:48pm |
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I got mine all together today and drove it . it stops on a dime! mike I used a bit of heat with my torch on the head of the stud inside the drum. not red hot mind you but close. they pressed out from the front pretty easy. I used a 3/4socket under the stud so as not to bend anything I replaced both drums on the driver side and all new studs that are right handed. I pressed these in with my 20 ton press. if you do this yourself make sure you support the drum and hub around the stud hole as you press them in. take your time and make sure that they go in straight. I lubed the studs with just a bit of anti sieze. after bleeding we took it for a test drive then brought it back and tweeked the adjusters on the brakes one more time. I have lots of pedal and stops great. im so used to power brakes I thought there was something wrong at first. but like I said they work great. peter
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m allen
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Joined: 29 Mar. 2015 Location: Louisville, Ky Status: Offline Points: 109 |
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Posted: 05 July 2015 at 2:21pm |
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I knew the head of the stud was not the swedge. I was just trying to make sense of things. The owners manual instructions says: Press them out--press them in and swedge them into the countersink. As an owner and not a machine shop, I think the swedging could be a punch and hammer striking at the base of the stud below the threads where the stud disappears into the flange. The swedge does not concern me at all because when the wheel is in place and lug nuts tight---where can anything go. Peter, You read my mind on the heat. An old trick I learned from a gunsmith when I needed to have a breech plug removed from my flintlock. That baby was frozen after 100 years of use. He heated and plunged the breech end into water. The breech unscrewed with little effort. I have shot hundreds of lead ball since.
I used this trick on the fender support brace bolts that where rusted off on both sides of my jeep. Heat it and use a sponge to put cold water on. The remains unscrewed like brand new bolts and the threads are fine. Back to topic. I would like to think that the flange metal is a little harder than the studs...maybe not. This has been a great discussion and I am ready to attack the drums. I am going to try the heat because I think that a lot of the resistance to removal is due to being frozen over time and not an original super tight fit. Heat seems to "unfreeze" things. I may put new studs in the freezer prior to installing...maybe not. I will post how many hubs I go though!! LOL Mike |
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Michael D. Allen
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rocketeer wrote: