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Clutch problems

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billg View Drop Down
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    Posted: 16 Jan. 2007 at 3:49pm
After installing a new pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing having the flywheel re-surfaced, installing a new pilot bushing and making the proper pedal adjustments, and starting the engine, it still grinds the gears when trying to shift into any gear. I can see through the inspection plate that the release bearing is moving the pressure plate fingers in. If I prop the clutch in, place the vehicle in any gear and rock the vehicle, the flywheel does not move and the clutch disc rotates on the input shaft.  The vehicle starts and idles in neutral ok. Just won't engage in gear with out grinding. The clutch disc is free from the fly wheel when depressing the clutch pedal.  Last thought (Could the input shaft of the trans. be tight in the new pilot bushing?) All surfaces received a light coating of grease. Such a simple clutch that's been around for ages. Anyone have any ideas before I pull it all apart? All ideas greatly apperciated.
                                                                     Thank you
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GaryArf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GaryArf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan. 2007 at 4:24pm
let us here get this straight.
#1 the clucth disc will stop when the clutch is depressed.?? (if so it should work)
#2 the tranny has had the syncros inspected??
????
It sounds like the disc is sticking to the flywheel or pressure plate.
Have you had this sitting for a period? Did the tranny work before?
 
I'm interested in your findings.
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TOM R View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TOM R Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan. 2007 at 4:26pm
tighten it more, clutches act different in a running engine then not running, also make sure your idle is set low enough, my throttle knob likes to hold the idle up and makes the clutch work improperly
for mg42 talk goto www.mg42.us
46 CJ2A
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my project http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=7008
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan. 2007 at 4:28pm
This has been a ground up restoration on going for 2yrs. All has been re-built or replaced bumper to bumper.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lomar15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan. 2007 at 4:37pm
Pilot bushings will drag with grease on them. Most of them are oilite and are impregnated with oil, no lube needed. Adjust your pedal free play to 1" . How high off the floor does the clutch engage? (pedal on floor,release slowly till starts to move jeep) If it is right on the floor it's probably adjustment. An 1" or higher and probably pilot bushing drag or input shaft alignment/ bell housing alignment.  Also grease or oil on clutch disc lining will stick it to flywheel. Clutch disc in backwards?
 
Bob


Edited by Lomar15 - 16 Jan. 2007 at 4:41pm
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TOM R View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TOM R Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jan. 2007 at 5:19pm
clutch disc backwards or defective is my next guess if the pedal is properly adjusted, i just had a customer supplied extreem duty clutch end up being defective after removing the trans 4 times on a 4x4 diesel super duty ugh
for mg42 talk goto www.mg42.us
46 CJ2A
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1954 m37
mvpa 31698
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my project http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=7008
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sudsie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sudsie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2007 at 12:37pm
 
      
                I also have a clutch problem that is driving crazy. I have all new stuff and have check z bar etc The throw out bearing will not push clutch fingers in, because in doesn't come out that far, it's about 1/4 in from the fingers. I have another jeep that i did the same way and that works fine. I'm lost, any help? thanks, Sid
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkreutz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2007 at 1:06pm
I dont have any experience with the specifics on jeep clutches, but they look pretty standard design wise, I would be looking at the clutch arm and the pivot ball, don't know if there are different ones available but I have seen this on GM clutches with all the different arms and pivots that have been made through the years. Looking at the parts manual, it shows 3 different clutch manufacturers, maybe you got an incompatable mix of parts? I'm sure there are others in this forum with vastly more experience than me who can sort this out. Hope this helps somewhat
Gale

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3ferris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2007 at 1:27pm
Sid
 
It sounds to me that you may have installed your clutch  fork wrong.  Check it agai, being sure that your clutch fork is behind the throw out bearing and not in the grove of it.  UH this is from experience.  It fits in the grove so nice, but it will not depress the clutch springs to release the clutch.  Let us know what is happening.  Ed
Ed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ridgerunner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2007 at 1:32pm
 I have been working with Sudsie to fix his problem. I have many years working on antique jeeps and this is the first time I've seen this problem. All parts in his clutch system have been replaced and checked against original parts. However, when assembiled together the pedal freeplay, which should be 3/4" is about 2"-3" before the throwout bearing face touches the pressure plate fingers. The clutch control cable is adjusted all the way in! I have a few more things to verify to be sure but this is a strange one. Any thoughts out there? Ridgerunner

Edited by Ridgerunner - 18 Jan. 2007 at 1:32pm
'41 MB,1-'42 GPW,1-'44 MB,1-'46 CJ2A column Shift, 1-'48 CJ2A,1-'54 M38A1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3ferris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2007 at 1:47pm
Ridgerunner this is exactly what happened to me before I spotted that the fork was in the wrong place.  I did it in a hurry and placed the fork in the grove instead of BEHIND the throwout bearing.  After placing it behind the bearing I adjusted the cable back to where it is suppost to be. 
Ed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2007 at 4:22pm
for what ever reason the clutch rod comes in different lengths.  this is the elongated u shaped rod held in with two cotter pins.  After I replaced my clutch a few years ago, I ended up having to fabricate a new rod because I could not get the correct adjustment with the old one.
 
hope this helps
 
Jeff
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sudsie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2007 at 5:03pm
 
 
       Jeff--Ridgerunner & I think this is what we may have to do, but the question is why, since my other jeep has ths same size rod. thanks for the reply . Sid
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ridgerunner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2007 at 5:15pm
Guys, I also have run into the diffrent lenth clutch control rod issue. I'm just not clear on which vehicle gets what lenth rod. This was the item I need to verify. In the past I've changed many clutches. MB's, CJ2's, 3A's, M38's and A1's. And all related parts. I've fixed them in the field and even made one up out of a piece of chain one time. I just can't get clear which lenth for what jeep. I know we can cure Sudsies problem I just need for my own head to know what is correct. Thanks, R-

Edited by Ridgerunner - 18 Jan. 2007 at 5:17pm
'41 MB,1-'42 GPW,1-'44 MB,1-'46 CJ2A column Shift, 1-'48 CJ2A,1-'54 M38A1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ridgerunner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2007 at 5:27pm
Sudsie- Keep in mind that with your other jeep, the fiberglass tub MAY have a factor in this. If the placement of the floor is diffrent than an original body the pedal and shaft may have a diffrent "starting point" than the stock body. That would in effect change the control rod lenth. If you happen to have had the wrong rod for your first jeep, but it works, then we may be comparing two of the wrong rods. See what I mean? R-
'41 MB,1-'42 GPW,1-'44 MB,1-'46 CJ2A column Shift, 1-'48 CJ2A,1-'54 M38A1
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TOM R Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2007 at 5:55am
sudsie i agree with checking the fork for proper install and the possible need for a different adjuster, when I got my basket case there were several different clutch parts with different pitches and lengths and it was a pita to figure what was correct, can't wait to see pics of your finished jeep looked great when I was up to see you a while backSmile
for mg42 talk goto www.mg42.us
46 CJ2A
T24/m29 WEASEL
1954 m37
mvpa 31698
nra lifer
my project http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=7008
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2007 at 6:40am
Did you all replace the clutch control tube w/a repro?

There is a repro being sold that's manufactured wrong, and doesn't work.

Sean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sudsie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan. 2007 at 6:58am
 
 
  
      Sean-- this was the first thing I looked at, and it was a little off, so I took it back to Walck's and got another one which looks better. thanks for the reply. 
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