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dodjh View Drop Down
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    Posted: 29 July 2012 at 5:56pm
Hi...I just rewired most of a CJ-3A dash forward.
I removed the Cermaic Ballast resistor and bought a coil that has an internal resistor.
It worked fine after install but now there is no juices to the neg. side of coil.
I put a jumper from positive side of coil to neg side with an in line fuse, and it blows a 15/20 amp fuse
whenever I turn the key on.
 
When multiple connectors are put on the same terminal of a ignition swith, ammeter etc. do you need to put insulating washers in between each connector or can you just stack all the wires together?
 
Any ideas of what might be going on?
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Carlsjeep View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carlsjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 July 2012 at 6:12pm
You should have a hot wire coming from the ign. sw. to the (+) side of the coil and then the (-) side of the coil goes to the post on the side of the distributor. You should not put a jumper from the (+) side of the coil to the (-) side of the coil, that is a direct short when the points close if the wire from the ign sw is hot and would blow a fuse every time the points close. Is the wire from the ign sw still hot? From what your saying there may be something wrong with the ign sw.

You don't have to put washers between the terminal lugs, just stack them on the stud. 

Do you have a multimeter to check the voltage with?


Edited by Carlsjeep - 29 July 2012 at 6:41pm
Life is only as good as you make it.
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dodjh View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dodjh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 July 2012 at 7:05pm
Hi and thank you for responding...I do have a wire running from the ON position of the IGN. Switch to the + side of the coil.
The IGN. S. is ON/OFF type.  When I installed the new coil and checked the operation with a test light, with the key ON, there was power to the + side of coil and the neg. side of coil.
 
I had an issue with the fuel getting to the Carb.(which I took care of) and then was ready to resume cranking the jeep.
 
Well the engine wouldn't run.  Finally I checked fire to Plugs and discovered the neg. side of coil was not getting juice with the key ON...to neg. side but was to + side.
 
Came inside and searched for coil test on the internet.
One said to put a jumper wire from + to neg. on coil and you could get it running.
 
My jumper wire has a fuse in it.  Every time I turned the key on it would blow the fuse.
 
I looked over all the wiring and I didn't see a problem.  This is all new wires new coil and a ON/OFF
that has been working fine.
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scoutpilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 July 2012 at 7:45pm
Totally off the wall question here. Did you by any chance leave the key in the ‘ON’ position while you were fixing the carb issue? Another OTW question. Did you check your points to see if they were OK?
Old-fashioned service never goes out of style.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Harveynailbanger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 July 2012 at 8:34pm
if the grass is greener on the other side, try waterin your grass.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carlsjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 July 2012 at 9:04pm
It sound's like your coil has died. Leaving the key on will kill a coil.
Life is only as good as you make it.
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dodjh View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dodjh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 July 2012 at 9:36pm
I've been hooking up my rear and front drive shafts so just came in and saw all the posts.
 
Thank you all for responding.
 
OK...scoutpilot...I'm positive I didn't leave the key.....I know that is a no no when jeep is not running and have been very aware of time key is in ON position.
 
Harveynailbanger...I have been looking at that site all through this re-wiring project.  It is a great page to have available!
 
Carlsjeep....I think that is what occurred because I put a jumper from + post on Batt. to Neg. side of coil and she fired up and ran.
 
As I mentioned at the beginning of this reply I hooked up the drive shafts  (didn't say this part) so I could check the clutch and brakes out.
 
Clutch is fine...brake pedal HARD AS A ROCK!
 
The question is still, why did a brand new, resistor built in coil, stop working?  I wired it just as the link
Harveynailbanger referred too.
 
Any other possibilities I can check for?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plowpusher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 July 2012 at 9:54pm
check the coil with a multi-meter first make sure the key is off set the meter to ohms red lead to + black lead to - it will have a high resistance and continuity then + to coil hi tension wire it will have lower resistance and continuity then black to coil case and red to both the + and the high tension wire there should be no continuity or O.L. Turn the key on with the points closed you should have
battery voltage at the + post of the coil and around 6-7.5 volts at the - post of the coil. Now put a plug wire into the coil tower with a spark plug on the end lay the plug on a ground flick the points open the spark plug should spark. If that works you need to adjust your points and timing.If that doesn't work file the points with a point file or emery board the run a clean business card or match book cover through them to clean them and try them again.   
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dodjh View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dodjh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 July 2012 at 10:23pm
Thanks plowpusher.....I will do that tomorrow and post how it turned out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rory Kew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2012 at 1:07am
Plowpusher,
Thanks for the guideline on using a multimeter. Not being at all mechnically minded and a bit scared of shocking myself, particularly when dealing the coil. How can one flick the points open and closed without shocking yourself? Do you use a wooden dial, rubber handled screwdriver or can one simply use one's fingers?
 
Thanks again,
Rory
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TERRY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2012 at 9:37am
Moving the points poses no shock risk, unless you are touching the HT coil lead.
Just connect the coil directly to the battery, then interrupt the circuit and a spark should jump, no need to use the points.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2012 at 10:16am
Originally posted by dodjh dodjh wrote:

... discovered the neg. side of coil was not getting juice with the key ON...to neg. side but was to + side...
That is correct if the points were closed:
  • when points are open: maximum voltage (6 or 12) on both + and - terminals
  • when points are closed:  max voltage on + terminal, ZERO volts on - terminal
Sean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dodjh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2012 at 10:22pm
plowpusher.... I was going through the steps you listed and wasn't getting the readings you said I should if everything was correct on the CJ.
 
I came in to post and saw a couple more replys.  I read where Sean said That is correct if the points were closed there wouldn't be voltage to neg. side.
 
I went back outside and turned it over and it ran w/o a jumper wire to the coil neg. side.
 
The following is the readings I got. My multimeter must be junk or I am inept in using it.
 
On ohms, I was getting 1.8 to 4.0 on + side of coil to neg.side.
 
+ to high tension wire was 8.54.
 
Black to coil case and red to both case and high tension wire, I was getting 00.0 on former and 7.56 on the latter.(when you say high tension wire are you referring to inside the coil tower where the wire feeds, or the end of the removed coil tower wire itself or removing the coil wire from the Distributor and checking on that end of the coil wire?)
 
Key on w points closed 11.80 at + and 0.00 at neg.
 
When it is running I have to keep it throttled up or it will die. The air breather assembly is presently removed but when I put it back on wont it make it harder to get air to carburetor?
 
I'm not sure if this has anything to do with the idling but a put some engine oil supplement w/ zinc in the fuel tank...couple of cap fulls.  I was browsing the forum and saw a post referring to using the zinc in fuel, I thought. Maybe if I top off the tank it will probably not have much effect.
 
Any input will be greatly appreciated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dodjh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2012 at 10:26pm
EDIT.....On black to coil case and red to both CASE and high tension wire.....I meant red to + side of coil and to high tension wire.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bronco306 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2012 at 12:56am
sounds like your getting spark. if its starts your coil is working. id check your carb for a buildup of "zinc" blocking your idle circuit.
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dodjh View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dodjh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2012 at 2:51pm
Would it build up, and that soon?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2012 at 3:03pm
I agree. I added a lead subsitute it was from a case my dad got 30 years ago and it screwed over me pretty good pretty quick. Like within 2 hrs drive time. Open the carb and clean it out also sea foam helps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scoutpilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2012 at 5:10pm
I agree with Schimms. Running some Seafoam through the system won’t hurt.
Old-fashioned service never goes out of style.
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