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Cracked block?

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Ritt View Drop Down
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    Posted: 20 July 2005 at 2:48pm

Has anybody used JB Weld to seal a crack in the block?

I have a 3" crack forward of the Distr. I ground a "V" into the crack, shined the cast iron and cleaned with acidtone, then let it cure for 2 days. Right now it's stripped down so I won't fill the block for a while.

Rit

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Doug Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2005 at 12:20am
Humm, I used JB to trail repair a radiator once, along with some siler seal stop leak, it's still going after 4 years. Not sure how I feel about it on a block though, it may want to melt off if it is anywhere near the exhaust.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2005 at 9:18pm
cant you have it welded? seems like it would be better.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ritt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 July 2005 at 8:52am

Originally posted by jray jray wrote:

cant you have it welded? seems like it would be better.

I don't know much about welding but we have a vendor who does our welding (for submarine equipment) and he had a cast iron block he was repairing. It had to be heated to cherry red then brazed. I think it may be cheaper to buy another engine. Just what I know about it. Is there an easier way?

My thoughts are, if the JB Weld doesn't hold, that's when I make the decision.

 

Rit

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"RAISIN COOKIES THAT LOOK LIKE CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES ARE THE MAIN REASON I HAVE TRUST ISSUES"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 July 2005 at 5:31pm
They make a liquid steel that is better than jb weld you can drill it and tap it and other things.   Then again after you reassemble it and it did not work that is a lot of labor to throw away.
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I had a block, water jacket, that was seriously cracked, and I mean really bad. Prepped it as for welding, then used a product called Marine Tex. It failed miserably!!!

That same block is stripped right now and a friend of mine is welding it. Conventional wisdom says that you have to put it in a pig cooker, or something, and get it hot enough that you'll not shock the iron when you weld it. That shock will simply cause the crack to continue beyond the weld. What he's doing is using a gas torch with a rosebud tip to heat the area on both sides of the crack, immediately prior to laying down the bead with the stinger. In theory, it should work! 

Good luck!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 July 2005 at 9:22pm
I had a crack in my block just below the distibutor.   it was welded with success over three thousand miles ago.  they did a "stitch weld" and it has held fine.  good luck!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ritt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 July 2005 at 1:04pm

This is a very fine crack. Looked almost like a mark in the casthing. It was just weeping slightly.

 

Rit

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Doug Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 July 2005 at 2:34pm

I hate to even suggest this, but it would probably hold better than JB weld.

An old trick used by pipe fittiers when dealing with a small pinhole or crack leak is to work lead wool into the crack (Lead wool is much like steel wool, but made of lead...LOL)

Just hold a strand of the wool over the crack and gingerly work it in with a mallet and punch. The lead may not actually seal the crack, but it will corrode shortly and the corrosion will seal the crack.

Chances are that whatever you do is going to only act as a bandaid, the crack will spread with time and heat/cool cycles. Welding in the correct mannor is the only hope for a true fix.



Edited by Doug
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CannonBall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 July 2005 at 3:47pm

working in a welding shop in college, I know most welders won't touch cast iron. it is probably the hardest metal to weld on as it like to melt away at welding temps. if you find someone compentent who can do it it might not be cheap. i'd probably go with one of the metal sets described above. since it is leaking water then the crack and repair isn't going to be subjected directly to the head of the combustion. I repaired a whole in water passage in a timing chain cover (about the side of the tip of a ball point pen) with JB weld on my old 66 mustang and is lasted for 2 years until i finally replaced the timing chain cover. and it was showing no signs of failing.

also, you mentioned you ground into the crack. on fine cracks if you grind on it to try and look deeper into it, there is a tendency to "smear" the metal over the crack and mask the true extent of the crack (experience learned working with aircraft structures). Something to think about anyway.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ritt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 July 2005 at 4:22pm
Thanks for the replies..........I'll keep you all posted. Since I have everything completely turn down (except the engine) it will be at least a couple of months
Rit

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"RAISIN COOKIES THAT LOOK LIKE CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES ARE THE MAIN REASON I HAVE TRUST ISSUES"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote waytay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep. 2014 at 8:59pm
if possible drill a small hole at each end of the crack wit a small drill that will stop the crack from traveling farther then preheat the area and braze in the crack take your time and make sure area is perfectly clean this has worked for me on a couple of blocks om old fords so should work for you if you care totry this 
watay
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocketeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep. 2014 at 10:22pm
Look at the date, this is a 9 year old thread you have resurrected.

Larry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep. 2014 at 11:37pm
9 years, wow. I would lock&stitch it. a product machine shops use.

Lee
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep. 2014 at 12:02am
Yes indeed an old thread - and my 2A is still going strong with the repaired crack outlined above.  Of course she probably has about 5000 more miles on her - lots of them plowing snow!
Jeff
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