Down for the count... **Possible motor found** |
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LesBerg
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Posted: 29 Apr. 2016 at 5:39am |
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how do you start a story like this? hmm. Well, I drove my mom over to Post Falls a couple weeks back to an Arbor Day thing the city puts on. They give away three trees or shrubs to everyone that shows up. There more to it, but picking up free trees really isn't part of the plot line... Anyway, we drove over bright and early to pick up six trees, and the transfer case started making noise on the way back. My assumption was that it was low from leaking, so we stopped and picked up gear oil so I could top it up when we got home. Over the next 14 miles I remembered that when I picked up this used t-case last fall I didn't have the right oil for it, so we used what we had with the intention of draining it and filling it with the correct GL1 mineral oil. Needless to say, I forgot all about it. The noise got worse on the way home and by the time we arrived, I knew I was looking at replacing the bushings and bearings at minimum. I pulled the pan and drained it. Of course, it was full of brass shavings. The rear bearing was completely shot and had ruined the rear bearing housing. There was wobble on the intermediate cluster, so I ordered up a bearing and gasket kit. The next day, I tore down my original t-case and started soaking the parts. I've been waiting for the right time to get my turbo project kicked off, and I'd been making a bunch of parts over the previous month, so I took the opportunity get started.. I played with it for a few days, and when the transfer case parts kit came in, I yanked the t-case out from under the jeep. In true Murphy fashion, the mainshaft separated and dropped the bearings into the bottom, but I didn't notice... Over the next couple of days, I worked on tuning the carb and playing with a couple different ideas for mounting the turbo. I was finally mostly happy with it and Tichelle came over and asked what the odd noise was. I've got high and low frequency hearing loss from my Army days, so I couldn't hear it. So I shut the motor down and started checking things out, and what she was hearing was the synchro assembly skipping across the top of the cluster gear. Yep. That's what I said, too. I've torn the trans down now, too All the gears have pitting from moisture/rust, but there's no galling on the gear faces. This isn't what's got me worried. I can feel depressions inside the cluster gear from the roller bearings. They're very slight, but they're there. Everything I've read says that if you can feel anything at all the gear needs to be replaced. Does anyone have any experience with this? I'll need a new main gear/input shaft, and a new main shaft. The bearing surface where the mainshaft fits inside the input shaft is shot on both... At the moment, it's looking like a total overhaul, and I can't afford it. I don't have the reverse idler out yet, but what's $40 on top of $500, anyway? On the upside, I've completed a few body projects. Oh - I have a spare rear bearing housing from my original t-case. So far, it looks like I might get away without having to buy any gears for the transfer case. Well see how it goes. [update] Between the two transfer cases, I have what I need to build a good case. Really, I'm only short a speedo gear housing and a cluster gear to have two good transfer cases. Granted, both would have rust pitting on the gear faces, but none of the gear teeth are actually worn. I suspect that they would last for a long time yet, but would be noisier than normal. Edited by LesBerg - 31 May 2016 at 6:45am |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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eestes1
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 12 Feb. 2011 Location: Mineral, VA Status: Offline Points: 1158 |
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Man, thats tough news that I hate to hear. Ive been lucky so far, but major trouble can happen any time. Good luck.
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Rick Estes
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4783 |
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Man... the only good in that story is that it got you home
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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athawk11
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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Holy S&*%^t!! is what popped into my head. Did we match? |
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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LesBerg
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Yup. Followed by a 'F- me'. I have a line on a side loader T90 in Post Falls that's been converted to top load. It has a poor 2nd gear synchro, but it goes down the road. I'm thinking about picking it up and using it while I gather parts to rebuild this one. Then I could pass it on to someone on the board who need a trans for a column shift jeep.
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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LesBerg
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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I picked up the trans I mentioned on Friday. I replaced second gear with the part from my trans, cleaned it up, and installed it. It's a T90A-1, as cast on the driver's side top. Below that is an upside down casting park that reads "H27%4", just above the shifter bosses. On the top surface, on the right rear corner is a stamp that reads "M9 4 2" with an upside down "5" above it. I have no idea what any of it means. I'll post pictures as soo as I find my cable. The transfer case is done and I'll install it first thing in the morning. On a side note, I used Loctite 515 in place of all the sealants. It's a non-hardening, non-migrating sealer that holds up well under heat, pressure, and against transmission and gear oils. I used it on the front and rear housing gaskets, the pan gasket, and the shim pack. Ditto for using it on every bolt with a hole that's open to the inside of the case, yoke splines, everything. We used it a lot when I worked at Austin Drive Train back in the late 90s. In fact, that's where the tube I used is from. It's been open all this time and still hasn't set up. I'll report back and let everyone know how it works out. Pictures to come...
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4783 |
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M9 4 2... december 9, 1942?
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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LesBerg
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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that was my thought, but the guy I bought it from has had mostly CJ5s. This was from his dad's jeep, but he didn't say what type of jeep, just the type of trans...
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4783 |
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Any chance the casting marks look similar to these?
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/t90a1-identification-help_topic37380.html |
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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LesBerg
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Actually, they look exactly like this:
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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LesBerg
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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and it just keeps getting better. <pours another drink> So Ironsides has been blowing lots of blue smoke since I played with the turbo. Until today, I attributed that to the fact I changed the oil to synthetic 10W40 because the 30wt was too thick for the turbo. I figured I'd give it a week and change to oil back. Well, I took it on a forty mile run today that has a ten mile patch of hilly, badly rutted road. Oddly enough, it's the section with a 60mph speed limit, so I was running with the pedal to the firewall. I had to add two quarts of oil before I left. This seems kind of odd because I the only driving since the oil change (and playing with the turbo) has been a 60 mile or so shakedown cruise yesterday. It was blowing smoke, but.... So when I got to my destination, I had oil all over the passenger fender, cowl, coming through pinholes in the passenger side toe area, and a couple small holes in the hood. It was dripping from everywhere under the front end. By the time I got it home, I was two quarts low again. But I got to thinking... At some point while I was playing with the turbo setup, I noticed that when I revved the motor and held it, the radiator hoses would shake like the coolant was boiling. The motor would also be blowing a blue oily mist out of the small hose hookup on the oil filler tube. I think what's happened is that I broke something in the motor, and I'm pressurizing the crankcase and coolant system. So the $4000 question is: Did I blow a head gasket, crack a cylinder wall, or destroy my piston rings? With a modern engine, I know I could have both these problems with a bad head gasket. They have to pass coolant, oil (sometimes), and can be open to the crankcase. Can a bad head gasket on a Go-Devil cause these problems as well? I don't know of any holes in the Go-Devil head gasket that could pressurize the crankcase. But by the same token, killing the rings wouldn't pressurize the coolant system.
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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LesBerg
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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Oh hey, I need to pull the trans (again) to replace the front bearing. Does anyone need a side-shift case for a column-shift jeep build? I would be more than happy to stuff these internals into my old case if someone needs this. There are lots of parts I need and I am perfectly happy with used, rebuildable parts. I'm pretty sure we could work something out.
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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Flatfender Ben
Member Joined: 13 July 2014 Location: Nyssa OR Status: Offline Points: 2657 |
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How much power did the turbo add?
Did you get any video of the turbocharged flathead? Thanks |
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LesBerg
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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I *will* get video, etc. I pulled the turbo setup off for now. The Willys is the back up vehicle.It needs to be ready to roll if either the Dakota or the Golf are down. Right now, the Dakota is having serious trans issues, so I'm trying to keep the Willys available for bus runs, etc. Once I have the current engine issues sorted out, and the Dakota is out of the shop, I'll be right back on the turbo. A little program I have called Desktop Dyno 2000 that estimates the power will be about 90hp at 3900rpm and 125 ft/lbs torque at 2000 rpm.
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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LesBerg
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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OK. Looks like the motor is toast. new guides and the motor backfires coming off idle. I would attribute this to needing a legit valve job, but I'm thinking it's pointless. #4 isn't firing, even with new plugs, clean motor, new gaskets, etc. Swapped the wire with the same results. The #4 exhaust stud has been broken off since shortly after I got it. Not much of a big deal, but it's showing me a serious problem with the motor. There is a trail of oil an inch and a half wide under the #4 exhaust where it's drooling out between the manifold and the block. There certainly aren't any oil galleys this far up in the engine, so the only thing I can think it can be is oil coming past the rings. I can wipe it off and it comes back in seconds. It's a truly astounding amount of oil. I'm still getting 50psi at cold idle, so I have a hard time thinking the rod and/or main bearings are shot, but it has to be coming past the rings. The deck of the block is also cracked on the valve side of the cylinder on #4. It's been sleeved and appears to not be leaking, but with a .060 overbore and a cracked block, I don't see a rebuild in it's future. I'm open to troubleshooting suggestions, but my gut tells me the motor is shot. If I repower instead of installing a 'new' Go-devil, I'm probably going to go diesel or V6. A Perkins would be cool, but I haven't seen one for less than $3k. The jeep fund is empty - I killed it attempting this repair. Tichelle needs shoulder surgery so money is tight anyway. It'll be down for a while. Probably measured in years. anyway, I'm seriously depressed... signing off Les
Edited by LesBerg - 29 May 2016 at 5:23am |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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Oilleaker1
Member Joined: 06 Sep. 2011 Location: Black Hills, SD Status: Offline Points: 4412 |
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Johnny in Missouri has the transicold Kubota diesels for around 1600.00. Type in v2203 Kubota. You might find one locally also. Then Overland Diesel sells conversion kits. If it's a car/truck, it going to cost money. They all do. Sorry your engine gave it up. John
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Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!
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jpet
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Wow! That's too bad, but if economics is an issue, wouldn't it be the least expensive to find another go-devil? Good luck with it all.
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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LesBerg
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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A replacement go-devil is the first choice for a fix, especially if money stays tight. On the Diesel side, my three choices are: 1. Perkins 4.203 (cousin to the 4.192 that was available for a short while in jeeps) Most correct swap, probably the least powerful and the most difficult to find parts for. 2. Mercedes OM617.95x turbo diesel. Indestructible, slightly heavier than the Go-evil, 5 cylinder, and higher revving. Makes about 120 hp at 4300rpm, 170 ftlbs torque at 2400. It's a decent boost over the stock Go-Devil, but the powertrain can certainly handle it. Insanely smooth because of the fifth cylinder. Power pulsees boon't occur at 90 or 180 degrees of crank rotation, I belive it's every 72 degrees. 3. Kubota 2303 Turbo. Everyone's favorite Willys diesel swap.
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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