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floor pan repairs

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m38mike View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m38mike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: floor pan repairs
    Posted: 27 Aug. 2007 at 6:42pm
Here are three photos of the passenger floor of the 2A i'm trying to restore.  I'm trying to decide if I should cut out the whole floor panel and replace it with a new one, or should I just fill in the holes with JB Weld and only weld in patches where the sheetmetal is totally gone???  I'd kinda like to keep the bullet holes in the tool box floor.  I think they add character!  Shocked







The Jeep script is going to take some work to save, but I've got to save it.  What do you think about welding a backing plate behind this, then filling in the holes with something to smooth out the face??


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Lomar15 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lomar15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug. 2007 at 7:48pm
 I wouldn't replace the whole floor.I'd cut out the bad metal and replace.  If the metal is thick enough and still has strenght, fill in the pits and keep it Patch the holes Or one big patch. The tool box you could cut the bottom lip off and make a new section. Then butt weld it in. Cut around the Jeep script at the bottom to save it. 
 Too bad, the floor looks great from the underside.


Edited by Lomar15 - 27 Aug. 2007 at 7:48pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gnkhoffman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug. 2007 at 8:03pm
Mike:
 
My floors were worse, so it was an easy decision to cutout and weld in new.  My script was in better shape.  I used fiberglass on the inside, and some puddy on the outside.
 
Tough call on the floors.  On the Corvair website, guys have had real good luck with using POR-15 with fiberglass cloth.  I don't know if that would give you the look you wanted on the inside floorboards, but it is supposed to be real strong.
 
I had similar channel rust on my front fenders, and cut out flat pieces, and tig welded them in.  Kept blowing through the thin remaining portions, so again cut out and welded. Very tedious.
 
Gary Hoffman
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hillbilly21 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug. 2007 at 8:06pm
 X 2 on what  gnkhoffman  says...........use the por-15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote westforkboyd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug. 2007 at 2:12am
Hmmm.... nice photos Mike... . The indent parallell to the hat channel should be saved. No repro tub or replacement floor panel will have that! Nice condition really. That indent was carried on from an early muffler bracket mount and is an indicator of an original manufacture.

Edited by westforkboyd - 28 Aug. 2007 at 2:19am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug. 2007 at 5:21am
Although I've never used it personally in this situation, I've seen very good results with Por-15 and the reinforcing cloth with the kind of rust you have. (much better than fiberglass resin)
 
That would get my vote too...USE GLOVES, IT DOESN"T COME OFF!!


Edited by rocnroll - 28 Aug. 2007 at 5:22am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hillbilly21 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug. 2007 at 7:01pm
  AHHHHHHHH    rocnroll   
 
 
 
  Why tell him about the gloves    Big%20smile   that is the fun of it...You get to take your project whenever and whereever you go untill it wears off..Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dav45_cj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug. 2007 at 9:18am
Your damage is almost the same as mine. I am going to be using a product called Hot Shot Heat Gel. Then I am going to braze in the holes, sand and reshape then POR15 over the top. My floors are still very strong so I do not need to replace the floors. Need to fix a few small hat channel  sections and thats it.

I agree with the gloves. Took me 2 weeks for that POR15 to wear off my hands LOL

Here is a mine damage. When I started they were just tiny pin holes. I kept picking away until I got to a more thicker steel.



Edited by dav45_cj2a - 29 Aug. 2007 at 9:20am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wyowillys46 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug. 2007 at 9:59am
When you get ready to paint over the POR-15 I would recommend you try the self etching Tie Coat primer they sell. I used the regular Tie Coat and it wasn't all that great.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lew Ladwig Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug. 2007 at 6:36pm
Mike,
I would cut out any flat bad spots as that is easy to do.  If on a curve back it up with copper and mig the holes closed.  That way the whole floor will be all solid steel and won't start to rust right away.  Here are some pic's of how I did my '47.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lomar15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug. 2007 at 6:38pm
2X what Lew said
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Viasa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug. 2007 at 8:36pm
Hey Mike,
If you find yourself two hours south of where you live and with a cutting device you are welcome to cut out the tool box from my parts jeep.  I could take some pix if you are interested.  I would only charge you some help with some of my grafting project.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m38mike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug. 2007 at 11:54pm
Viasa,
I may take you up on your offer sooner than later.  Besides, it'll give me a chance to go check out the jeeps in the salvage yard for needed parts.   I'm going to try to salvage the existing "Jeep" panel.  Still not sure how I'll do it.  I'm looking thru a couple catalogs at different products that might work.

On the floor, if I have a hole bigger than a dime, I'll weld in a patch.  Looks like I have a few of those!    The steel in most areas where the pinholes are seems to be stiff enough that if I use the POR-15 I think I can save most of the existing floor.  My brother-in-law just used POR-15 on a trailer he's building.  Well, his son used it.  Now he'll have striped legs for soccer practice for a couple weeks!! 

I appreciate the warning to use gloves!!  I'll post pics as I go thru the process.  First thing is remove the rusted hat channels.  Lomar's replacement parts will go on there.  Then I'll weld up any patches, like the hydraulic hose holes on the transmission tunnel.  Then I'll see what I can do with POR-15.  BETTER LIVING  THRU CHEMISTRY!!
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