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Electro-Willys conversion

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m38mike View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m38mike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2009 at 2:59pm
In the middle of the night last night I had a dream about having some big PTO driven air compressor hanging out the back of the jeep just to drive the windshield wipers.  Then it hit me that the military wipers that I have are water tight with the incoming air coming through an air line from the air cleaner.  I wonder if I could put a small air compressor on that line and drive the wiper with compressed air instead of pulling the air in a vacuum.  Or would it be possible to create a totally closed loop, where the air compressor pulls air from the wipers in the intake side and forces it out the outflow back to the wipers?????????  HHHhhmmmmm??? 

I suspect my 150 psi compressor might be a little to big to try this with.  Has anyone here ever tried something like this?  I wonder if a small compressor, like the kind used to power an air horn, would work in this application.  JC Whitney sells them pretty cheap.  I'd go check out auto junk yards for one, but the nearest one is my neighbor - oh I mean it's about 2 hours away by Alamosa.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote John 46-2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2009 at 4:42pm
Mike,Im putting one in mine with a ping tank so you have it when you need it (Plus the air horn)then use a regulator to cut the psi.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2009 at 6:01pm
Mike,
 I posted earlier wondering if the compressor would work instead of the vacuum. I figure you might have to reverse the check valves or something like that to get it to work though. It might just be a matter of putting the hose in the other end if you are real lucky. Remember that pressure is not an inverse proportion to vacuum (IE 20 in. Hg vacuum is not inversely proportional to 20 PSI pressure.) I don't know what the formula would be to get it right though.

 I would recommend that you set up a regulator that is backed all the way off and slowly increase the pressure until the wiper motors work to your liking. You could even set it up so that you have an infinitely variable speed control though the use of the regulator. This is of course assuming that you are able to get it to work in the first place!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BillF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 May 2009 at 5:42pm
Mike,
 
Did you get the motor back?
 
When battery tech improves I would love to find an m38 to do this to. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Viasa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2009 at 3:06am

Mike, if you make it down to Alamosa I'll help you look, have not tried to find one of those compressors so I'm not sure what is available around here.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m38mike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2009 at 3:22am
Bill, funny you should ask.  I asked Netgain the same question, "when do I get my motor back?  It's not here yet."  I got them scrambling to find out where it was.  They found it on the loading dock of the Warfield Factory where it was rebuilt.  I just learned that yesterday.  George is very embarassed by this turn of events.  I told him I'm not concerned about his emotional state, I'm concerned about the lack of motivation to get my motor back to me.  They were supposed to send me a tracking number today.  I haven't seen it yet. 

I got called yesterday and my custom tach was shipped out to me.  And my step-starter circuit board is built and is being sent out tomorrow. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m38mike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2009 at 3:52am
Luis,
Thanks.  We still need to get out to the junk yard with the jeeps in it. 
M38Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m38mike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2009 at 4:10pm
My motor has arrived!  It's in the back of my truck as I type this.  So this weekend I'll spend some time making sure of the adapter design demensions for the adapter between the motor and the flywheel before I take it to the machine shop.  I'm hopefull that I'll see  the tach show up today too.  It'll be next week before the step-start circuit gets here since it's coming from Canada.  I've got the system analyzer circuit at home.  I'm still trying to figure out where I'm going to mount it. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BillF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2009 at 4:14pm
thats some good news.  Hopefully you will be driving it soon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lemield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2009 at 4:25pm
Hey Mike.....
 
On a related subject, there is an interesting article in the June issue of Hemmings Motor News about a fellows electric conversion on a Model T....interesting reading....tried to locate it online but no luck....if you don't subscribe, PM me your address and I'll send it to you...:)
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m38mike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2009 at 9:14pm

Thanks Larry,  a friend up here gets that mag and he showed me the article.  Pretty neat. 

This past weekend I focused on getting some gauges wired and figuring out what I need to tell the machinists building the adapter between the electric motor and the flywheel.  Here's a photo of a mount I made for my EV Analyst, a small circuit board and LCD that tells me all kinds of good info about my system.  Unfortunately, I didn't pay close attention to what side was up when I marked the corner holes to drill for the screws.  As luck would have it, I had the unit upside down.  So now I've got to weld in these holes and drill new ones.

Tomorrow I'll bring the electric motor and the housing, along with the flywheel into my local machine shop to have them fabricate the adapter.  Here's a photo of me measuring the flywheel against a straightedge to see how far in from the edge of the bell housing it needs to be for the clutch to be in the right position.  I'm also going to have them cut one of my PTO shafts for the winch on Kate's Karriage.  It's about 4 inchs too long with the current location of that winch, and the PTO that I'm using. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2009 at 10:14pm
Mike, you aren't gonna rely on just the pilot bearing to support the flywheel,. are ya?
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m38mike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2009 at 10:52pm
No Bill, especially since the pilot bearing doesn't support anything.  It pushes the 3 pressure plate fingers in to release the clutch.  The adapter from the motor to the flywheel will carry the weight of the flywheel.  The input shaft of the tranny which you see poking out in the middle of the flywheel will simply keep the flywheel in line.  The six bolt holes around the center of the flywheel will be used to attach it to the adapter, just the same way the flywheel is bolted to the crankshaft on a gas engine. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m38mike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2009 at 7:59pm

I got an interesting email from a guy on another forum who showed me how to make a "latching switch" for an electrical circuit out of a pair of $2 bosch-style relays.  Here is the diagram for my use for that switch.  I'm using it to shut down the motor if the rpm gets too high.  The rpm switch monitors the tach input to see what the rpm is.  It has a circuit in in that provides a ground when the rpm gets to a settable limit.  In my case, I'll have it turn the ground on at 4500 rpm.  That will trip the first relay (R#1) which in turn trips the second relay (R#2).  When R#2 trips, it "locks" itself in the tripped position so that even if the ground from the rpm switch goes away, R#2 will keep in the tripped position.  In the tripped position the power going thru the relay is diverted from the Tyco Kilovac contactor to a blinking red light on my dash.  That will alert me to the reason the motor isn't running any more.  To reset the whole switch all I have to do is turn the 12v power off, then back on.  Cheap, simple, effective.  I like that.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2009 at 8:15pm
Be careful when you're passing slow traffic with oncoming traffic in the distance!  LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BillF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2009 at 9:02pm
wouldnt just having the motor stop at the rpm be fine.  Why the extra step?  Sound like it could cause a problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkreutz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2009 at 9:44pm
Mike, Bill's post got me to thinking (dangerous territory nowLOL) What do you think about wiring that relay idea into the throttle potentiometer? Then it would disconnect the throttle at a preset rpm, and when the rpm dropped below the threshold, the throttle function would return. Just thinking out loud. I think it would work with one relay instead of the two. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m38mike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2009 at 3:13am
Sam, if I did my homework right, when I get it all back together again, this jeep will literally fly down the road.  Of course all that wing flapping will be hard on the front fender supports, but I think we have a solution for that! LOL

Bill, good question.  The reason for the extra step is to keep the contactor from welding itself shut when the power comes back on.  And once that happens, I'd like to avoid welding the controller shut too.  That would allow max power to flow to the motor.  And THAT could lead to a high speed rodeo!  The way to bring the power back up is in sequence.  By charging the pre-charge resistor before allowing full power, I'll significantly reduce the chance of welding the main contactor or damaging the controller.  That only takes a few seconds to do that.  But if someone else is driving who doesn't know what to do, they could cause problems.  So by shutting it down and forcing a power off, restart, I protect the electronics. 

Gale, I could do it like you say, by cutting off the potentiometer.  The problem is that if it's spinning up because of a contactor or controller failure, shutting off the potentiometer won't help.  To stop the motor you need to cut the main power source.
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