split rivet tool |
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lowenuf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 29 Aug. 2006 Location: Ohio Status: Online Points: 9122 |
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Posted: 25 Sep. 2009 at 2:14am |
ok, i have searched until i am blue in the face....
wasn't there a thread just a few days ago involving a tool someone made to set the split rivets with?
did the tool mimic the "humps" on the split arms when they are separated for installation?
thx, low
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45 #10012
45 #10033 ACM #47 45 #10163 ACM #188 57 CJ5 Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 rear/D-30 front, D-20 twin stick |
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rocketeer
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 26 June 2008 Location: Lehighton, PA Status: Offline Points: 3473 |
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You might be thinking of this thread on the G503 forum:
http://www.g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=149680&hilit=split+rivet+tool I did it a little different. I took an old pair of pliers, welded a gob on the inside face of one jaw, and ground the gob into a pyramid shape. Squeeze the rivet with the "pyramid" spreading the split in the rivet. Worked like a champ. I can't post a pic as I "re-adjusted" those pliers into something else again. Larry |
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DaveyK01
Member Joined: 22 Aug. 2007 Location: Lewistown, PA Status: Offline Points: 506 |
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I used C-CLAMP Vise Grips once I got the rivet tails split. |
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Dave
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BorderBrewer
Member Joined: 06 Aug. 2009 Location: Chula Vista, CA Status: Offline Points: 120 |
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Ditto on the C clamp vise grips. I bought a cheap pair at Harbor freight. They already have the pyramid shape. Worked well while installing the welting with the grill still on the vehicle.
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Regards,
BorderBrewer 1947 CJ2A 1960 6-226 Wagon |
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lowenuf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 29 Aug. 2006 Location: Ohio Status: Online Points: 9122 |
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thx Larry, that is the thread i was thinking of......
apparently i didn't explain myself well enough in regards to appearance of a finished rivet....
the rivets will be holding the grill welting.....
and if you have ever looked at the underside of the grill with any original welting and rivets left, you will see what i am talking about trying to achieve ( i know, i am starting to get anal)....
when the tabs bend over, it is like each one is bent over a small nail, then the nail is removed, leaving both tabs arched in an "M" shape like the McDonald's arches...
i will probably end up just setting mine flat..
thx....
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45 #10012
45 #10033 ACM #47 45 #10163 ACM #188 57 CJ5 Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 rear/D-30 front, D-20 twin stick |
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westforkboyd
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2006 Location: Northern Iowa Status: Offline Points: 3514 |
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Low
For the love of God whatever you do don't reach under someone elses grill, feel the rivets and say "what ya do use a pair of pliers on these"?
WFB
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'48 CJ-2A #184135 Lefty
'49 CJ-2A #219719 Mule '39 Ford 9N '55 Oliver Super 55 Ollybelle |
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lowenuf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 29 Aug. 2006 Location: Ohio Status: Online Points: 9122 |
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lol...i only found this little feature while stripping down a grill for resale.....i had never seen this before, and sure enough, on a second grill, the rivets were installed the same way...lol
i know i know.....who in the world will ever see the underside of the lip on the grill top.. :)
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45 #10012
45 #10033 ACM #47 45 #10163 ACM #188 57 CJ5 Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 rear/D-30 front, D-20 twin stick |
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Howard
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 17 Feb. 2006 Location: New Mexico Status: Offline Points: 976 |
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Mike,
I hate to say this but...I bent the rivets on the CJ as you are describing. I found they don't hold as tight without that arch. Otherwise they tend to allow the welting to move around. Actually,as funny as it sounds, it is the proper way to install them in my opinion because of how they were originaly done. At least that is how they were done on mine. And ,Mike, Unfortunately I would look at the staples under your grill, especially now that you have made it an issue.
Edit: I wanted to add that the staples that hold the 'hair' to the grill for the radiator are also bent in this fashion for the same reasons.
Maybe 'anal' is a proper description for trying to duplicate this but in honesty, much of what is done to restore these CJs by us is. In this case it is also a practical technique to duplicate.
Good Morning. Edited by Howard - 25 Sep. 2009 at 2:20pm |
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Howard F Jewett
1946 CJ2A #23353 43 GPW 106505 USA #20366014 43 Bantam Trailer T3 #14844 52 M100 K1119 |
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rocnroll
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You know, I actually had a somewhat similar thought when there was a discussion of what the "correct" axles to use inside the front axles housings for a 2A versus a 3A were but. well, I uh, didn't say anything...
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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lowenuf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 29 Aug. 2006 Location: Ohio Status: Online Points: 9122 |
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thx Howard :) i just wonder if using a pair of snap ring pliers, with small guage tips would work in bending the staples and rivets over? might have to practice this....
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45 #10012
45 #10033 ACM #47 45 #10163 ACM #188 57 CJ5 Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 rear/D-30 front, D-20 twin stick |
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westforkboyd
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2006 Location: Northern Iowa Status: Offline Points: 3514 |
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Roc
I read that too and thought that guy really comes up with some stupid ideas.
Howard
How did you accomplish making those arches?
The first time we went to JC I had shortly before bought the welting kit and saw how the originals were done on Mule so was going around looking at others who had replaced their welting seeing how they bent their rivits. Never forget walking over to the military side and looking at a nicely redone Air Force M38. When I asked the gentleman the pliers question he gave me the look and replied "How the hell would you do it then".....OOOOOOPS...I'm good at blurting out my thoughts because that kind of thing dosn't bother me too much.
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'48 CJ-2A #184135 Lefty
'49 CJ-2A #219719 Mule '39 Ford 9N '55 Oliver Super 55 Ollybelle |
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dwloop
Member Joined: 10 Feb. 2009 Location: St. louis, MO Status: Offline Points: 290 |
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Seems to me that a person could purchase a small set of parallel face pliers, fab the block like on the g503 page and tack weld it to one side to bend them over in the arcs...
Is there enough room around the grille to get something like that in there? I have not replaced mine yet (You guys at JC probably were whispering about that ), I figured I would wait until body and paint to accomplish that, so I don't know...
Dave
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80 CJ7 401
76 CJ5 360 46 CJ2A #45208 All works in progress, or regress depending on your view... |
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Howard
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 17 Feb. 2006 Location: New Mexico Status: Offline Points: 976 |
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Look at the common stapler for paper sheets that we all use. It has a die on the 'foot' to form the staple into this arch in order to fasten tightly and hold the paper tight. The die that is shown in the G thread works perfectly. This is an old idea I saw on the G several years ago.
I used and ruined a pair of vice grip pliers as has been described, welding a flat block with a slight counterbore on one jaw and the die on the other. I made the pieces from a piece of key stock prior to welding them to the jaws. Someone has the pliers that I had made in California.
The radiator welting, I first tried to fabricate the staples myself from 16 gauge stainless wire. They were to maleable and would not hold the shape. Ron Fitzpatrick has these staples and they are perfect.
I folded them over an awl to get the bend...a bent 6d finish nail would work. Something similar.... The radiator pieces were more forgiving than the grill welting to get the right look. Unfortunately the new paint took a few hits during the process but I left the scratches. Blue tape helps to reduce the carnage during the install.
My opinion, This is a small bit of detail to reproduce to get the look....and fairly visible parts in the Engine Compartment, at least a few of them are. Like many things in this effort, I think if it is done improperly or poorly then it shows more than if it is done correctly, The grill welting rivets will break if you try to bend them flat and the welting will be loose and shift around under the hood. My grill welting has settled into its form position and does not move. It has that nice used look and the rivets are still tight in the holes.
The radiator welting is trapped in there so it doesn't move much, except on the top, so do the top pieces/staples last after you have had some practice on the bottom and sides.
Mike, you could always use pop rivets and washers. They would be tight...
No worries.
Edited by Howard - 25 Sep. 2009 at 5:34pm |
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Howard F Jewett
1946 CJ2A #23353 43 GPW 106505 USA #20366014 43 Bantam Trailer T3 #14844 52 M100 K1119 |
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westforkboyd
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2006 Location: Northern Iowa Status: Offline Points: 3514 |
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Goofed around with some bar stock for an "anvil" to arch the rivits. Thought a worn wheel on my die grinder would make a nice radius. Still too big however and the arbor gets in the way when trying to reduce the radius. Next time into town I'll look for a small cutting wheel of some sort for the correct radius. Thought it would be simple, two small divits with a parting wheel and done. The idea might still be sound, just need a smaller diameter wheel.
WFB
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'48 CJ-2A #184135 Lefty
'49 CJ-2A #219719 Mule '39 Ford 9N '55 Oliver Super 55 Ollybelle |
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Bob in Orlando
Member Joined: 05 Oct. 2008 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 75 |
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Speaking of grill welting - I recently purchased mine from Walcks and it came with two small extra pieces. I do not see where it attaches to the grill. Can you tell me where it attaches?
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Bob
48 CJ2a 91 YJ 04 KJ |
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westforkboyd
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2006 Location: Northern Iowa Status: Offline Points: 3514 |
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Bob Well everyone claims those are for the two angled parts that go off of the grill. There are two holes in them. Seen many put the welting there so now they are including them in the kits huh?
I have my doubts though. First they are not on the same plane as the top of the grill. The hood would never touch them there. Second I've looked at pretty unmolested 2As and nothing is there. I know some will disagree but I believe it has evolved like an urban legend that they were welted.
But if you want to that's where people put those two shorties.
WFB
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'48 CJ-2A #184135 Lefty
'49 CJ-2A #219719 Mule '39 Ford 9N '55 Oliver Super 55 Ollybelle |
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lowenuf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 29 Aug. 2006 Location: Ohio Status: Online Points: 9122 |
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1949 Parts List:
GROUP 14-03 COOLING- RADIATOR GUARD
663520 LINER HOOD RADIATOR GROUP
663522 LINER HOOD RADIATOR GROUP LEFT SIDE (up to Serial #118630)
663521 LINER HOOD RADIATOR GROUP RIGHT SIDE (up to Serial # 118630)
low
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45 #10012
45 #10033 ACM #47 45 #10163 ACM #188 57 CJ5 Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 rear/D-30 front, D-20 twin stick |
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westforkboyd
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2006 Location: Northern Iowa Status: Offline Points: 3514 |
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Thanks Mike
Must have taken them twenty thousand 2As to realize that don't touch the hood. When is that, '47?
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'48 CJ-2A #184135 Lefty
'49 CJ-2A #219719 Mule '39 Ford 9N '55 Oliver Super 55 Ollybelle |
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