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Clutch problems

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hillbilly21 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hillbilly21 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Clutch problems
    Posted: 30 Sep. 2009 at 12:51am
X 2 with sudsie...

glad thats all your problem is..Thats an easy fix.Wink
1946 CJ2a POW-MIA
51 M38 ORIGINAL
PRES NCFFC
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sudsie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2009 at 12:35am

  

          you might have a mb cable as they had a smaller tranny, I think yours should be 91/2"  
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote murmsk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2009 at 12:24am
I have come to the conclusion that I need a shorter clutch cable.

As it turns out I was measuring the fingers wrong and I dont have anyway to measure correctly as I don't have a shim or place to bolt to so I am assuming it ok

With the rod fully adjusted in, there still is 1/2" - 1" of peddle movement before the cable tightens . I assume there should be some tension at all times to keep the fork from moving around.   RIGHT?

this is a wonderful group   your  knowledge amazing  and your willingness to share it is very much appreciated.


thanks  steve  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote murmsk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep. 2009 at 8:08pm
hmmmmm

Ill pull myself under and have a look see.
I haven't touched it but that doesn't mean someone else didn't switch'm.

thanks tons

steve
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F Bill View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep. 2009 at 6:49pm
The clutch shaft that goes from the frame to the side of the tranny can be installed end for end and the linkages just do not work with it installed that way. It is pretty easy to do, especially for us dyslexic types. 
 
 
part 17 in this pic if I remember right...


Edited by F Bill - 28 Sep. 2009 at 6:53pm
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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murmsk View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote murmsk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep. 2009 at 6:43pm
Anyway, did you dissassemble the linkage? could be the clutch/brake tube is in backwards
I don't understand

steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GaryArf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep. 2009 at 5:45pm
another thing about measuring the fingers, they can't be measured with the P.P. on the flywheel (unless you take into consideration the "bowl" in the flywheel). You also can't do it without it (P.P.) being tightened down to a flat surface. it shows in the manual a test "jig".
 Anyway, did you dissassemble the linkage? could be the clutch/brake tube is in backwards.
CJ2A #10021 #34692 #58500



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Sep. 2009 at 5:34pm
Do a search for "thelander".  There we're lots of prior discussions, it is manufactured by Auburn.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote murmsk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Sep. 2009 at 9:15pm
Another thing

The casting on the clutch says "thelander clutch" but from the pictures it looks identical to the Auburn Clutch shown in the service manual.

The clutch peddle moves about 1/2" before the forks start to move and there seems to be another inch of travel when the peddle if fully depressed.

thanks  steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote murmsk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Sep. 2009 at 8:50pm
OK now I am really confused.

The engine is out and the fork ass seems to be put together correctly.

which leaves rod length and........  clutch fingers

I measured the clutch fingers    specs say 1 15/16"  mine are 2.5"  so theres my problem right? 

Now maybe I am thinking too much but if I adjust the fingers to spec thats going to make it worse rather than better.

could someone pre 1973 have gotten the long control cable and compensated by adjusting the fingers ?

thanks  steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote murmsk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Sep. 2009 at 7:05pm
That is exactly the picture I needed to see    Thanks.

Yes it was adjusted all the way tight  and has been that way since I bought it in '73 . Ill tell ya more when I get it apart.

Thanks agian to all for your help

steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocketeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Sep. 2009 at 2:40am


Larry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote murmsk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Sep. 2009 at 1:36am
ok I found it its on the top
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote murmsk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep. 2009 at 11:26pm
there is no window like this one on my 2a ....... So I am off to pull the engine.

I am not smart enough to link to a picture .. anyway refer to the picture posted in the parts section.


off to pull the engine.

thanks  steve


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote westforkboyd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep. 2009 at 4:01pm
If I were a betting man, hmmm happen to be one. HB is most likely right.
 
A common error.....the fork should be behind the two ears on the bearing carrier...Many install it just behind the bearing. That will never be adjustable. Open your tunnel cover and look where the fork is located. If wrong it can be corrected through the tunnel cover but patience and determination are required, also a powerful magnet to retrieve the failures. Be careful with the pivot pin also it can come out and drop too. Did you install the little return spring on the carrier?
 
Hook the cable up first, use a long screwdriver to hold the carrier forward. manuver the fork behind the ears and over the pivot pin.
 
WFB
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ritt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep. 2009 at 3:58pm
You said "all the way adjusted", all the way which way?
 
Measure your clutch rod, they will come ~9-1/2" and 11-3/8". I needed the 11-3/8 rod in my 48.
Rit

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hillbilly21 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep. 2009 at 3:54pm
Should be an inspection plate on the bellhousing  ..remove the tranny pan and its right there in place with 6 --- 7/16 bolts
1946 CJ2a POW-MIA
51 M38 ORIGINAL
PRES NCFFC
www.eastcoastwillys.org
hillbillystoys.phanfare.co
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote murmsk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep. 2009 at 3:04pm
is there any way of checking the fork position on the bearing without pulling the engine?

thanks  steve
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