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Mike S View Drop Down
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    Posted: 18 July 2015 at 4:28am
Really useful info. I have a Pertonics ignition that I "inherited:" from the engine's PO. I'll save this data to get stuff running this summer.

Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cdn2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2015 at 4:56pm
Just to put this out there, for what its worth....

Most of the "electronics" in these modules are, based off of the GM 4 prong hei module.
Some after market company’s have changed the form factor to fit the older distributors.

The "pickup" is usually a derivative if the Ford duraspark pickup.

The nice thing about these two units, is they are cheap and can be modified to run almost
anything. From a John Deer 820 pup engine, to Ford 8N. If you dont want to "hide" the module
in the distributor it can be wired and remotely mounted.

Finally... and perhaps most importantly, you can use your current distributor and it's points,
to trigger an hei module. Therefore little - no wear on the points, since the high voltage isnt
going through them. You get the reliability of hei, without having to replace the distributor.
Great upgrade for pennies on the dollar.

http://home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/Ignition/GPZheiModForPoints.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cs2cnzMia9E
http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/msd-83647/overview/make/gmc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BrianJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2015 at 2:35am
A little late, but found this in my searches

This is the Omix unit




If you get this far, it is a bit difficult to get the top part back onto the pins on the weights.  Your best bet is a small screwdriver through the hole for the black/red wires (remove them).  These also need to go back the same way you took it apart, otherwise the timing would be off I believe.

Mine old unit was an IGW 4177-1 and I ended up using it's locking plate instead of the one from Omix - this allows me to tune it further instead of the restriction in the plate.  However you have to remove the lip on the bottom of the housing, so it's the same length.  (I did this on a lathe, but it's aluminum, so it cuts easy)

Brian Jenkins

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 47goDevil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2010 at 7:10am
go on put it in already, we're anxious. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2010 at 2:01pm
Quote It's 180 out because of the end offset key (Crown made it 180* out), so I just dialed the wires.
OK, thanks Rit!

Not having ever seen one in-person, just trying to figure out how different they are from a stock distributor.

Obviously, not just a simple swap!

Sean


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ritt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2010 at 10:12pm
Originally posted by sean sean wrote:

Rit:
Quote Sean, I tried my Crown Distrib again yesterday, sure it would work now since the point dist. works fine. Nothin', no spark, no kick. 
Did the rotor point to the same plug as your points distributor?

I'm still trying to learn how close/far off these replacement distributors are wrt timing.

Sean
 
Sean,
 
It's 180 out because of the end offset key (Crown made it 180* out), so I just dialed the wires. actually tried both positions just for the heck of it. Maybe I blew the modual out at some point last summer while trying to get it started. It's really nice looking, like Mike's above.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ritt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2010 at 10:07pm
Originally posted by Longhunter Longhunter wrote:

Originally posted by Ritt Ritt wrote:

 
Mike, did your Crown work?
 
Thanks,
Rit
 
Mine is an Omix and I haven't installed it yet. It will go on an engine I am building now.
Sorry, no report yet.
 
Mike
 
It's identical to the Crown.........not sure who is making it for who
Rit

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 2010 at 3:01pm
Rit:
Quote Sean, I tried my Crown Distrib again yesterday, sure it would work now since the point dist. works fine. Nothin', no spark, no kick. 
Did the rotor point to the same plug as your points distributor?

I'm still trying to learn how close/far off these replacement distributors are wrt timing.

Sean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Longhunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2010 at 11:35pm
Originally posted by Ritt Ritt wrote:

 
Mike, did your Crown work?
 
Thanks,
Rit
 
Mine is an Omix and I haven't installed it yet. It will go on an engine I am building now.
Sorry, no report yet.
 
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ritt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 2010 at 10:54pm
Sean,
 
I tried my Crown Distrib again yesterday, sure it would work now since the point dist. works fine. Nothin', no spark, no kick. I'm begining to think these things really suck (Crown)!!
 
I just purchased a Pertronix today since I'm deturmined to go w/o points......Big smile. I'll call Carl Walck.....again. Can't figure now it worked in his Jeep and not mine Confused.
 
Mike, did your Crown work?
 
Thanks,
Rit
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr. 2010 at 10:07pm
Awesome photo, thanks Mike!

That is the same as the Crown distributor, so I'm half-way home now!

Looks like the main slot just barely allows 45 degrees, the bolt-down slot maybe another 10.  Should be enough to cover any oil-pump position.

Sean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Longhunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr. 2010 at 10:01pm
Looks like there are 2 adjusters. (1) where it bolts to the block (slight adjustment) and (2) with the slot and bolt on the housing.
 


Edited by Longhunter - 02 Apr. 2010 at 10:02pm
Mike in Mississippi
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr. 2010 at 7:59pm
Thanks again Mike!  Great photos, just what I needed to see.

The internals are the same as the Crown distributor, so they're functionally the same.  The oilers are slightly different, but that's a minor detail.

How does the hold-down clamp work:  does it allow free rotation of the distributor body, or is it slotted to limit rotation?

Quote ... But if you think about it they would probably want to use an already manufactured part if they could.
I'd agree.  A proprietary cap & rotor would be expensive,  cheaper & easier to use something off-the-shelf, just gotta figure out what.
 
The rotor is not standard CJ-2A.  The whole thing might have been modeled after a later era distributor.

Sean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Longhunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr. 2010 at 6:09pm
I'd just about bet a dollar to a donut the parts are omix. But if you think about it they would probably want to use an already manufactured part if they could. A little more research is in order. I have a manual dist at home that is about this size. The later L134 distributors are about the size of this unit. I will compare the 2 this weekend.
 
Inside with the rotor removed:
 
Here is the rotor:
 
 
The cap looks normal. I guess the kicker will be the actual diameter, height and positioning of the tab that holds it in place.


Edited by Longhunter - 02 Apr. 2010 at 6:10pm
Mike in Mississippi
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr. 2010 at 5:01pm
Thanks Mike!

Their timing "instructions" are just as vague as the others: you're "on your own" to figure out where plug wires go Dead

Would you happen to have a photo of the inside w/rotor removed?

I see too that this Omix unit is different than the Crown distributor (I thought they were the same, but not).

Sean

ps:  do you know if the cap & rotor are standard from some other known vehicle?  Part numbers are Omix, I'm wondering what you'd ask for from NAPA or other auto-parts store, or if you'd always have to go back to Omix.



Edited by sean - 02 Apr. 2010 at 5:07pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Longhunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr. 2010 at 4:42pm
Is this what you are looking for:
 
 
I don't have a scanner so I took a pic. If you need some better pics I will try again. It is kinda blurry.
 
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr. 2010 at 3:47pm
Originally posted by bkreutz bkreutz wrote:

All my Pertronix instructions said was set timing as before. Pretty vague. LOL
Thanks Gale!   I presume that's their overly simplistic "set the timing in the conventional manner" instruction?

Originally posted by Harriet Harriet wrote:

... I'll go down the garage and get the other one out and scan the stuff that came with it ...
Thanks Harriet, I'd appreciate that!

Sean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Harriet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Apr. 2010 at 10:17am
The Pertronix we've used in the Frog and the Midget have not had timing instructions, but I'll go down the garage and get the other one out and scan the stuff that came with it for you later.
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