Grampa's Cj2a |
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berettajeep
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 03 Feb. 2009 Location: Astoria OR Status: Offline Points: 4304 |
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Like others have said, it looks great!
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swmoboy
Member Joined: 17 Nov. 2014 Location: Springfield, MO Status: Offline Points: 135 |
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You are doing a great job. It's encouraging for us amateurs.
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
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I was getting ready to start on the passenger side floor. I cut out some of the jagged edges to give me a better look at what I had. My orignal plan was to just replace the floor panel, but after standing and staring at the lower side panel for a while I decided I better patch that up or I won't have any thing to weld the floor panel to.
This is the passenger lower side panel from the inside. It doesn't look as bad as it really is in this photo. Here it is from the outside. I didn't really want to mess with the patina, but I just can't leave this. i ordered a lower side panel from Classic Enterprise. Hopefully it will be here by the weekend. |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
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Also, while I was being bummed out about have to replace the lower side panel, I also noticed that behind the little brace for the tool box top panel, the riser was rusted out. Decided I better fix that too. It's hard to really find a point that you can just say, "I'm leaving that for the patina".
Anyway here's what that looked like and how my welding and grinding turned out. This is the back side of the brace with the remnants of the riser still attached. Showing you all close ups of my sketchy welding is quite intimidating. I didn't weld the top edge yet because I'm going to take the rear floor out and replace it and didn't want to weld it just to cut it out. I'll put the brace back in when I get t he rear floor and tool box back in.
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
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Here a shot of the front floor pans both in. You can also see where I replaced the bottom of the side panel.
Here I am lining the tub up to dry fit on the frame so that I can make sure that I get the hat channels in the correct spots. You can see that I have replaced the rear floor and the passenger side wheel house. (Note to self for future reference: The tub will NEVER fit right if you stab the steering column through the master cylinder acces hole. ) I'll pull it all off, get the hat channels welded up and then the paint. I'm try some experimental foux patina that I hope won't look too cheesy. I think I might tear into the transmission AGAIN before I put it all back together. I've been having some grinding getting into third gear. I I think I probably sheered the syncro dogs again.
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Flatfender Ben
Member Joined: 13 July 2014 Location: Nyssa OR Status: Offline Points: 2657 |
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Great work. Looking forward to seeing your patina paint to match the old.
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berettajeep
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 03 Feb. 2009 Location: Astoria OR Status: Offline Points: 4304 |
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Did that so many times. At least you were smart and used a engine lift. I wasn't.
Now would definitely be the time to due that. |
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LesBerg
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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looking good! Your welding is better than mine, and I thought I could weld...
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
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I got the transmission out and the synchro fixed. I have been having a 3rd gear grind ever since I first put this transmission together. It looks like I had one of the synchro dogs hooked on the wrong side of the spring causing it to stick out too much and get sheered off by the blocking ring and at the same time jamming the blocking ring into the input shaft so that it never had a chance to do any synchronizing.
Another less Grampa's Jeep has taught me.
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11173 |
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looking good
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
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Now that the transmission is fixed, I'm back to finishing up my cancer treatments on the tub.
Here's all the stuff I have cut out and am trying to match with my faux patina paint job. The tool box was pretty rusty so I decided to get a new one. Fitting the new one was a pain. Between my waivey floor patch and the new box being "one-size-fits-all," I had to do a little cutting and hammering to get it to sort of fit. Not super happy with it, but it's in. This photo also shows what I'm starting out with in my effort to come close to matching the original patina. Here's the two patches I did on the sides where the two body panels meet. I had just put fresh bondo on there and will be smoothing that out today before the painting starts there. I'm sure you guys that do real body work are cringing, but this is my first try ever. And I'm trying to make it look 65 years old, not brand new. Here's the first "rusty" base coat. Red oxide primer. This seems to be a pretty good mix of rust color and the original Luzon Red that Grampa's Jeep had before the sky blue color covered everything. The plan is to use some black along with some high build red oxide sprayed in random spots and rubbed with something like a plastic bag to give it some texture. The ribs on the original floor and wheel house seem to be darker so I'll hit those with black and then red oxide, then sand through the oxide to the black. I also had a local paint store mix me up a spray can of the sky blue color that I will apply in spots and rub with a rag or something to try and replicate the patchy scratched look. I'll probably have to do sort of a misting over the top of everything with the red oxide to finish up the rusty look. |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
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Here's the results of the first try with the black and the high build red oxide primer rubbed with a plastic bag.
Here I've added some of the blue color. On the side of the wheel house i took a blue shop towel and dragged it through the blue with my finger. The side of the original wheel house had quite a bit more of the blue color remaining. Here's the original. Here are the patches on the side after I sanded down the Bondo and put some red oxide followed by the blue. The sides have a lot more blue on them and not near the scratched and textured look of the wheel house. Tonight I'll hit it all with a sanding block and see if I can get it a closer to what I want it to be. The sides may need a little misting of white over the blue to "fade" it a little. All the new paint looks a lot brighter in the photos that in person. Maybe because it's not as "flat" as the faded original paint. |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7986 |
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Interesting I don't know if I have ever seen anyone attempt to patina a paint job to match something as worn as Grandpas Jeep. Interesting concept.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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swmoboy
Member Joined: 17 Nov. 2014 Location: Springfield, MO Status: Offline Points: 135 |
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Man, I love your story (thread). After seeing how bad your tub was and your repair, I'm starting to think there may be hope for mine. I'm afraid when I start though, I'll be welding new panels on new panels as I work my way around. Keep up the good work. It gives us newbies hope.
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1947 CJ2a #155307
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berettajeep
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 03 Feb. 2009 Location: Astoria OR Status: Offline Points: 4304 |
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That looks terrible! ( Great job!! Blended in nice.)
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
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Mark, thanks for not saying the word "moron" out loud. Several reasons for me to go towards matching the old rather than make it look new. The biggest one is that I have no skills or experience with body and paint so making it look "terrible," to quote Barrettajeep, is a lot more doable for me than getting it to look perfect. Another big reason is that when Grampa's Jeep really was Grampa's jeep and my siblings and I, along with our cousins, were going on great imaginary adventures in this jeep while it was parked behind Grampa's garage, it looked pretty much like it does now. I'm trying to save a little more of that memory. The other thing is I LOVE to drive this jeep in the way it was designed to be driven, and even to test the edge of the envelope a little. If I tried to do a near perfect restoration it would take me many more years to get to the driving and if I did all that perfect work (which I really admire in others' projects) I don't think I could bring myself to get it dirty. |
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berettajeep
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 03 Feb. 2009 Location: Astoria OR Status: Offline Points: 4304 |
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Think you may have over looked the fact that it does take skill to try and recreate the look of a aged body. Getting it perfect may have been easier as you could have gotten a new tub and paint it. ( Not saying that is easy to do also.) But you replaced sections of the tub and matched the (lack of a better word) patina that took years and years to get and made it look as if it was never touched. I meant no disrespect by saying terrible. I meant it as if coming from a regular non Willys person who, if they saw a multi-colored jeep, would think it was junk or a beater or whatever. Meaning that, in my eyes you set out to do what you did. |
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