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Custom Trailer - How should i build one?

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Randy Snyder View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Randy Snyder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan. 2011 at 2:01am
ralf,
 
Those are the jacks I put on my rear corner's.  You can rotate them out of the way or take them off.
Also added break-away battery for brakes.   And as FBill said, went with some heavy gauge wiring inside of plastic conduit (sealed from the elements).   Thought about LEDS but at $50 a piece, that was $200 I said could be a future "upgrade".
 
Randy


Edited by Randy Snyder - 29 Jan. 2011 at 3:05am
'46 2A #13943

'46 2A #26236

'45 T3-C #436

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ralf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ralf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan. 2011 at 2:12am
Great minds think alike.  I saw some LED trailer lights on sale and upgraded my dual axle 16' bumper pull trailer.  They are great, about twice as bright as standard lights.

I am showing my age, but I also put an electric jack on the tongue.  I fabbed up a steel battery box out of 18 gauge steel for the full size deep cell battery.  A friend had given me a plastic vented battery box cover so I made the box to fit it.  I made it from a single sheet, bent it up with a brake and plug welded it.  I have a weather proof Warn pigtail coming out of the top for a winch that fits a receiver I welded to the front of the trailer bed.  (my 17 year old son went wheelin today in his 99 WJ and burned up the receiver winch.  It was only 2500# Warn winch which was fine for pulling vehicles up the ramps but was no match for a full sized Jeep)


Edited by ralf - 29 Jan. 2011 at 2:27am
1947 CJ2A
1948 CJ2A
1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee Tractor

1941 J-3 Cub
1957 Farmall Cub Low Boy tractor
1942 Clarktor WW2 tug
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dennisanvil View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dennisanvil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan. 2011 at 3:10am
ralf
you could have put on a 7 way plug and run power back from your motor. i have a electric jack and a 3,000 pd winch run that way. then you need one battery.
dennis
dennisanvil                   1948 cj2a, maker of tailgate hooks & hand forge iron ware
there not any knowen cure for jeep fever.
serial # 164136<
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan. 2011 at 4:14am
Here's my hauling rig...It is a close version of a trailer I bought in NY but didn't get to bring to TX. It has jeep lug pattern brake drums which are available for any dexter 3500 lb axle, no matter what the trailer axle dealer tells you.  I bought the brakes and drums in Washington state  from a trailer shop for around $500 all included. If I were to do it again I would just buy complete axles with brakes installed, and sell the old axles. Price wouldn't be too much different.
 
Tractor supply sells this particular style of trailer with a mesh tailgate for about $2200 nowadays. If you look around you should be able to do better on a new one, and a LOT better on a used one. The wood floor is handy but lasts about 4 years from what I have seen so far. The stock lights were junk, the wiring was quick and dirty using a lot of scotch lock connectors....Any trailer using that will have wiring problems soon.
 
I use pretty beefy passenger /SUV tires as I get better life out of them than the commercial trailer tires. Others have different experience with trailer rated tires, but I have gone with something that seems proven. maybe I am just buying the trailer tires at the wrong place, but they seem to rot faster and blow faster than the good used ones I have on it now.
 
I also use a breakaway trailer battery with the cable operated switch... it is required if you ever get checked by DOT on the road. You have to be able to pull the cable and lock up the tires.  Four wheel brakes are also required federally but some states do not enforce...They will eventually.
 
My tail lights are NOT leds as I too am monetarily disabled, but I did spring for LED markers on teh front which were the only things I could see in my mirror on I-90 last night in the snow. Definitely worth it.
 
The removeable jacks are a great thing, especially if you get a couple and weld the mounts on all over the trailer. I have changed tires on my old trailer with the tongue jack moved back to the frame by the axle. (yes, a Trailer rated tire too..)
 
Here is the trailer.. the lightweight 5 x 10 tiltbed is in the pic too..I gotta get me an electric winch!


Edited by F Bill - 29 Jan. 2011 at 4:14am
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan. 2011 at 2:04pm
Another pic, notice how far away I have attached the chains using the spring shackles to attach to the jeep.  Fastest and easiest tie down, and you have enough angle the chains give a little. No hopping up and down on bumps, tows like glass. when I tie down on the 12 footer, I have to do all teh binders under the jeep  and I usually use the rear spring mount for the front spring and the front mount for the rear spring, to get enough  length to the chain for a binder.
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m38mike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan. 2011 at 3:15pm
Hi Bill,  your second photo above is a great example to use to talk about center of gravity for a jeep, and how it affects the trailer.  The CG point in almost any jeep is the transmission.  Take a look at the data plate on any military jeep and that's what it shows.  Roll bars don't change it much, but winches can pull the CG towards them a little.  So can boxes of cargo in the back. 
 
I see you have this jeep CG just a little in front of the front axle of your trailer.  That adds a little tongue weight.  How does that feel on your half ton pu?  I drive a 3/4 ton and for me, I get better ballance if I park with the tranny directly over the front axle.  Still have plenty of tongue weight, but it's not pushing down on the trailer hitch too much, and seems to track and turn really well.  Since the trailer balance is toungue-heavy to begin with, I prefer not to add too much more.  I'd like the axles to carry the load, not my trailer hitch.  
 
Thoughts??
 
BTW, I agree with the electric winch idea.  I put a 2000 lb ATV winch with a remote control on mine, and with a snatch block on the line it'll pull anything I need to load right up onto the trailer.  Jeeps are light enough that I can single-line pull them on.  That's a $100 option that can really save your back.


Edited by m38mike - 29 Jan. 2011 at 3:20pm
M38Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lew Ladwig Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan. 2011 at 3:54pm
I like the weight to be centered over the axles and enough hitch weight to be safe and to keep traction on the truck.  That is one reason why I like to back the jeep on.  That way the engine and tranny are over the axles.  Also, if the windshield strap gives out, the windshield stays down. 
 
My greatest improvement has been to build a set of fold down ramps.  Don't ask the CFFC folks why.Ouch
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote johnnybravo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan. 2011 at 11:34pm
My junk yard tilt bed, pole hauling, gravel hauling, jeep hauling, long neck multi purpose trailer w/dual winches and hydraulic brakes.  I ended up with about $600.00 invested:










Edited by johnnybravo - 29 Jan. 2011 at 11:43pm
Ret. USAR-Vet, 6-GPW's,, 1-M38 w/M-100, 1-47 WO "Jeep" 4X2 Wagon, several ruff CJ2&3A's, 1-CJ3B,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan. 2011 at 1:40am
Originally posted by m38mike m38mike wrote:

Hi Bill,  your second photo above is a great example to use to talk about center of gravity for a jeep, and how it affects the trailer.  The CG point in almost any jeep is the transmission.  Take a look at the data plate on any military jeep and that's what it shows.  Roll bars don't change it much, but winches can pull the CG towards them a little.  So can boxes of cargo in the back. 
 
I see you have this jeep CG just a little in front of the front axle of your trailer.  That adds a little tongue weight.  How does that feel on your half ton pu?  I drive a 3/4 ton and for me, I get better ballance if I park with the tranny directly over the front axle.  Still have plenty of tongue weight, but it's not pushing down on the trailer hitch too much, and seems to track and turn really well.  Since the trailer balance is toungue-heavy to begin with, I prefer not to add too much more.  I'd like the axles to carry the load, not my trailer hitch.  
 
Thoughts??
 
BTW, I agree with the electric winch idea.  I put a 2000 lb ATV winch with a remote control on mine, and with a snatch block on the line it'll pull anything I need to load right up onto the trailer.  Jeeps are light enough that I can single-line pull them on.  That's a $100 option that can really save your back.
 
I just pulled the jeep on the trailer until the back of the truck went down slightly...then tightened up the front chains first....Not a lot of tongue weight but much better than no tongue weight or negative tongue weight...Maybe that chrome bumper and rear mounted spare moved the CG a little more rearward, I dunno.. On my F-150 it worked well, altho I got some bucking on Oklahoma 69 a little while ago.
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dennisanvil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan. 2011 at 2:01am
they say that you should have 60 percent of your weight foward of the area between the axle. that way you want more weight foward so that you keep traction on your rear wheel of your truck.with my pj. trailer that put the engine foward on the trailer. as said the center on the cj is the tranmission area it is a 12 ft box. the trailer pull like dream.
dennis
dennisanvil                   1948 cj2a, maker of tailgate hooks & hand forge iron ware
there not any knowen cure for jeep fever.
serial # 164136<
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan. 2011 at 2:10am
One thing that really helped out on my 94 F-250 (which had the worlds softest rear springs..)was to use a weight distributing hitch on my receiver hitch.   I don't have a receiver or I would use one on the truck I have now. I am limited to 4000 lbs anyway by the hitch so it isn't a big deal. But with a receiver and equalizer barsI could tow a full 7000 lbs on the trailer and not worry if the tongue weight was a bit high. Hauling my tractor and shredder would be a problem without the equalizer.
 
As an aside I was spinning my tires backing out of Jpets driveway so I don't think I had too much weight on the truck...and my headlight aim is spot on too. I think the picture makes it look worse than the actual weights are.
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dennisanvil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jan. 2011 at 2:14am
it depent a what position the your axle are on your trailer frame.
dennisanvil                   1948 cj2a, maker of tailgate hooks & hand forge iron ware
there not any knowen cure for jeep fever.
serial # 164136<
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bwtufts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb. 2011 at 5:37pm
This is the trailer that I built over x-mas for mine, it took about a week from start to finish... I used two pieces of "H" beam (18" width in the web) as the main runners with four supports evenly spaced between the H beam for support and 1/2 angle for the tongue. I used two spring axles that rode and trailed fine 1400 miles from TX to VA at 75 Mph. The center was left open to reduce weight. Due to the narrow width of the Jeep I put a removable third rail for hauling the Jeep that has the Jeep centered over the axles to better distribute weight. I totally over built mine, but it was made as a dual purpose trailer to be able to haul something else besides the Jeep like one of my diesels in the event something happens to one of them. That and I got the steel for free, so it didn't cost anymore to build it heaver!



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Longhunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb. 2011 at 6:02pm
Welcome to the forum bwtufts!
 
Nice trailer and nice Jeep!
How about some more pics of your Jeep.
 
Thumbs Up
 
 
Mike in Mississippi
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MFeiden Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb. 2011 at 7:20pm
What he said!  That's pretty much what I had in mind for the trailer except it was shorter but now that I've read up, maybe 12' is not such a good idea. Mark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb. 2011 at 8:16pm
Here's as light as you can build and still safely tow a jeep...
 
3500 lb Dexter axle, 2x2 tubing and angle frame with 2 x 10 flooring. Tongue is heavier tubing and pivots half way back on the trailer right in front of the axle. No ramps required to load, altho a comealong is safer than driving it on as it has no front stop...Only thing I'd change would be to use a drop axle instead next time... trailer deck itself is 5 x 10 IIRC. 
 
With a single axle trailer you are a little more dependent on the truck for carrying the weight. Careful balancing of the jeep and lightening the load as much as you can helps..In this case I pulled the jeep from teh Denver area to TX, no problem at all as it was engineless.  SInce then I bought a larger single axle with a drop axle beam which I am a little more comfortable with, it is not as top heavy.


Edited by F Bill - 10 Feb. 2011 at 8:18pm
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote garage gnome Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Feb. 2011 at 11:09pm
My trailer can fit a jeep, barely. Ermm I just wouldn't want to test out the load capacity that way or see how well the jeep's brakes work. LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mat L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Feb. 2011 at 5:44pm
Thanks for all of your reply's...keep them coming. I just put the wood stove [just moved to a new house in the mountains] in the garage and getting the electrical up to spec for the welder. I'll keep you all posted as i go.
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