Data Plates |
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thirtycal
Member Joined: 24 Mar. 2011 Location: Blossom, TX Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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Posted: 02 Sep. 2012 at 10:13pm |
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Here is how the last one turned out with out any sanding needed. This tag had actually been sanded and sandblasted before I received it. |
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thirtycal
Member Joined: 24 Mar. 2011 Location: Blossom, TX Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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The big flat spots may still need some touch up. They may have some shadowing around the edges, but that should be fairly easy compared to the rest of the small letters. I was restoring a cream separator and had tried the sanding method a few times with unsatisfactory results. I decided to try the trick I mentioned above after noticing the effect while cleaning the tag up. The deeper the etching the better it works.
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Online Points: 11173 |
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That is a great idea. Removing the paint from the raised letters is the hardes part. I will try that next time when I do data plates for Bam Bam.
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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thirtycal
Member Joined: 24 Mar. 2011 Location: Blossom, TX Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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A method that I found for painting etched metal was to dip it in paint thinner, then lay it flat and spray the paint on before the thinner evaporates. The paint will be thin enough that it falls to the low spots leaving the high spots bare. Much easier than trying to sand the high spots especially if the high spots aren't so high. Leave it to dry over night and hit it with a clear coat in the morning. Even an old crusty tag will look new. Oh and make sure the tag sits level. If it messes up all you have to do is let it soak in the thinner and start over.
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PhillipM
Member Joined: 28 May 2012 Location: Jackson, MS Status: Offline Points: 560 |
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No need for that, use http://www.myfonts.com/WhatTheFont/ It takes a picture and identifies the font. It has to be a pretty good picture and everything but the type should be cropped for best results. There is also identifont.com
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garage gnome
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 12 Jan. 2011 Location: Western MA Status: Offline Points: 2834 |
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Thanks for that tip Jeff, I like to learn ways to make new stuff look old, especially for my '49.
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Nate
1953 3A, 1949 3A, 1947 2A, 1918 IHC Titan 10-20, 1905 IHC Famous, other hit n misses |
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Online Points: 11173 |
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I discovered a way to make your data tags look 65 years old. Here is a tag that I made.....
Then I sprayed oven cleaner on it and let it sit overnight. Next morning I washed it off: These pictures really don't do it justice. I discovered this by accident when cleaning my frame |
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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sandusky
Member Joined: 19 Sep. 2010 Location: S.E. Iowa Status: Offline Points: 1773 |
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Nice Job Jeff, I've had that process used to etch aluminum mold cavities with leather grain texture, We refer to it as Photo-etching,this type of process is very much in use today in the automotive industry, it's used for injection molded parts as well as integral skin arm rests and pads. keep up the great work!!! Sandusky
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Online Points: 11173 |
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I don't think I will get into making these. I've posted the procedure so maybe someone else could pick up on it. Like I said earlier, Robert de Ruyter makes these at a reasonable price and he can make anything that you provide him a pattern for.
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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trader_reed
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2005 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 2201 |
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Wow Jeff! Very good! I'm sure you'd sell a few governor and capstan warning tags made from zinc, the repo's are cheap and too thin. I need a capstan tag but would buy both to support The cause
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Maker of the Reedkini
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Longhunter
Member Joined: 13 Dec. 2006 Location: Meridian, MS Status: Offline Points: 2171 |
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I saw the guys on Mythbusters do that so it is possible. |
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Mike in Mississippi
2006 Jeep Rubicon 1946 CJ2a #49667 1946 Bantam T3-C #7909 1 UNDERSTANDING Wife "2 wrongs don't make a right but 3 rights will make a left".... Gallagher |
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47goDevil
Member Joined: 12 Oct. 2008 Location: HuntingtonBeach Status: Offline Points: 781 |
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proof that one can polish a turd . really put'n value to that jeep there . good job .
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Online Points: 11173 |
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I suppose. I'm not sure how much relief you would get but when I did my plates, the acid never did eat the toner off. I'm not sure how deep the etching went. I just left them in the acid till I could feel a definite raised surface with may finger (with rubber glove of course).
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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ricco
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 09 Apr. 2007 Location: Olathe, Kansas Status: Offline Points: 1414 |
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Very interesting Jeff, tell me...if I had a piece of magnesium block...say .918 high, and used this same process, how much relief could I expect to achieve? I guess what I'm asking is could I make my own stamping dies with this process?
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She can dance a cajun rhythm....jump like a Willy's in four wheel drive...("Sugar Magnolia")
'48 CJ2A #204845 "Lumpy" |
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Online Points: 11173 |
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No talent required really. If you know how to print from a computer, use a clothes iron, slosh around a pan of acid, use a spray can and rub with a piece of scotch-brite, you can do it.
..... All that being said, It is not economical to make your own unless you are making at least 2 sets of plates. You can buy them from dataplates4u.com for a very reasonable price and he does a better job. I just did my own out of curiosity. Making your own is only cheaper if your time is worth nothing. Edit: I would also add that you would not be able to sell them legally because they have a "WILLYS" logo. Edited by jpet - 05 May 2011 at 2:14am |
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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Joe Frazer
Member Joined: 15 Mar. 2008 Location: Somerset, PA Status: Offline Points: 788 |
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You sure have some nice art talent - and patience!!
Keep up the nice work - all of us "un-gifted" folks appreciate seeing it!
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Collecting any/all Kaiser/Frazer/JEEP literature/handouts/toys etc.
46 CJ2A 50 Jeepster 51 Pick-up 54 Willys Aero Hardtop 54 Kaiser Willys Darrin 56 Wagon 56 Factory Proto-type FC 170 Truck |
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Online Points: 11173 |
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Here is a new set made of zinc:
I ruined a few sets trying to get it right and I think I will make the CAUTION tag over again mainly because the "CAUTION" font is too bold and there are a few mistakes in it. It's pretty much the same process as the aluminum. After some experimentation, the P-N-P paper seems to transfer best when I set the laminator to 300° and run a single plate through 12 times. I made a jig to drill the holes out of thick acrylic like what Daniel suggested: It would make sense to do this operation before painting but oh well. The jig did not scratch the part. This jig has the hole patterns for all three tags. I got the P-N-P blue paper from Enamelwork Supply Co. http://www.enamelworksupply.com/supplies.html #2513-1 PnP Blue (5 sheets) - $10.00 The zinc sheets came from Rotometals: http://www.rotometals.com/product-p/zincsheet030.htm
Just follow the procedures that I laid out at the beginning of the thread. Installed: Man! ... Don't these tags make the ol' mut shine up like a brand new penny!! I think they actually double the jeeps value. I think I will run him by the gas station and fill up the tank. That way I can TRIPLE his value!! Edited by jpet - 04 May 2011 at 11:35pm |
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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uglyjeep
Member Joined: 08 Aug. 2005 Location: Mukwonago, WI Status: Offline Points: 1060 |
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When I drill delicate sheets of metal, often I will use 1/8" clear poly-carbonite clamped in place as the top of the sandwich. It allows me to watch exactly where the bit is going, and still has sufficient strength to keep the bit from grabbing the underlying material. Poly-carb also does not crack as easy as regular acrylic plexi-glass. I have also used brad point drill bits on aluminum, and they made a pretty nice hole. May even work well without a sandwich technique. They have a centering point and cutters that cut the outside diameter of the hole first, sort of like a hole saw. They are made for wood, but seemed to handle the aluminum fine...they were just a cheapie set anyway. I think the set at work goes down to 1/8", they might be worth experimenting with. Daniel |
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