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mike in oregon View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mike in oregon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar. 2011 at 12:24am
Those are really nicely done Jeff. Maybe you could make some smaller ones and tag all these dusters and tops you are making. LOL
MIKE IN OREGON
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46 CJ2A 38007
46 CJ2A 79863
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar. 2011 at 1:17am
I didn't try making any more because I want to design the other two plates first so that I can make all three at the same time.  In the mean time, I repainted these test pieces and cleaned the paint off the lettering again with two different types of Scotch-brite:

This time instead of trying to fully coat the pieces, I lightly sprayed them, let them dry, sanded them off, sprayed a little more paint on, buffed again, e.t.c., e.t.c.  These are by no means professional, but they look much better now.  You can see that the metal looks dull in some places.  That is what I am looking for.  I think if they sat out in the moisture, they would get dull like the originals.  If you want them to be shiny, I would suggest that you stamp them, wet buff them, dry them and immediately clear coat them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar. 2011 at 1:33am

I don't care who ya are, those look nice!  How did you trim them to size, and how do you plan on making the mounting holes without damaging the nice flat surface. and they were made in the good ole USA!!!

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If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar. 2011 at 1:43am
Here is a pattern for an early 2A serial number tag:


Basically what I did was take the photo that Lowenuf posted, and opened it in a photo editor. (photoshop to be exact).  I then changed the contrast by turning it way up to sharpen the image.  This caused the black areas to get really dark and the unpainted zinc surfaces to turn a light blue color.  Then I reversed the colors which made the black areas light greyish blue and the the zink areas a dark blue.  Then I changed the photo color to greyscale which caused it to look like this.  When you print the image, it has to be a mirror image because you are printing to the toner side of the blue paper.  I'm not sure if this image is sharp enough or not.  I would print it on a regular piece of paper and see how it looks.  It may need some more art work in the gray areas to make it sharper.  Once you get it to look good on regular paper, It will copy onto the pnp blue paper.  If you can find a match for the fonts, you could re-type the words to get them sharp and paste them over the image.  I'm not sure what that font is.


Edited by jpet - 26 Mar. 2011 at 1:49am
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"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar. 2011 at 1:48am
Originally posted by F Bill F Bill wrote:

I don't care who ya are, those look nice!

Thanks!
Quote How did you trim them to size....
I sandwiched them with some poster board and put them in a shear.
Quote ....how do you plan on making the mounting holes ....
Just drill them out I suppose.
Quote without damaging the nice flat surface...
Yery carefully.Big smile  Actually, these are just test pieces, I wasn't going to drill any holes in them but I would probably sandwich them between something to protect them and drill the holes.  On the real deal, I would cut them to size and drill the holes before I applied the toner.
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"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lowenuf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar. 2011 at 2:26am

Do you have OCR software associated with Photoshop?  If so, you should be able to scan the pattern, and have it recognize the font, provided you have an extended bank of fonts....

45 #10012
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57 CJ5    Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 rear/D-30 front, D-20 twin stick



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncle steve Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar. 2011 at 2:53pm
I need a set of three tags stamped for   SN 54883   1946 cj2a      Frame, body , and SN.. stamped.. I seem to remember, that someone on the Board did this.. any help would be appreciated ..
Thanks  Thumbs Up
Uncle Steve, and I hate it when people say   " boy are you lucky " WHEN in fact..The harder you work, the luckier you are
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar. 2011 at 2:57pm
That would be Robert de ruyter
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
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"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncle steve Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar. 2011 at 3:05pm
Many thanks Jpet, Robert just sent me  a PM.. we are all set.. This site is awsom...  Thumbs UpThumbs Up
Uncle Steve, and I hate it when people say   " boy are you lucky " WHEN in fact..The harder you work, the luckier you are
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uglyjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Mar. 2011 at 2:11am
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

I wasn't going to drill any holes in them but I would probably sandwich them between something to protect them and drill the holes....


When I drill delicate sheets of metal, often I will use 1/8" clear poly-carbonite clamped in place as the top of the sandwich.  It allows me to watch exactly where the bit is going, and still has sufficient strength to keep the bit from grabbing the underlying material.  Poly-carb also does not crack as easy as regular acrylic plexi-glass.

I have also used brad point drill bits on aluminum, and they made a pretty nice hole.  May even work well without a sandwich technique.  They have a centering point and cutters that cut the outside diameter of the hole first, sort of like a hole saw.  They are made for wood, but seemed to handle the aluminum fine...they were just a cheapie set anyway.  I think the set at work goes down to 1/8", they might be worth experimenting with.

Daniel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2011 at 11:32pm
Here is a new set made of zinc:


I ruined a few sets trying to get it right and I think I will make the CAUTION tag over again mainly because the "CAUTION" font is too bold and there are a few mistakes in it.  It's pretty much the same process as the aluminum.  After some experimentation, the P-N-P paper seems to transfer best when I set the laminator to 300° and run a single plate through 12 times.

I made a jig to drill the holes out of thick acrylic like what Daniel suggested:

It would make sense to do this operation before painting but oh well.  The jig did not scratch the part.  This jig has the hole patterns for all three tags.

I got the P-N-P blue paper from Enamelwork Supply Co.
http://www.enamelworksupply.com/supplies.html
#2513-1 PnP Blue (5 sheets) - $10.00    

The zinc sheets came from Rotometals:
http://www.rotometals.com/product-p/zincsheet030.htm
ZINCSHEET030-0001 ZINC-SHEET-.030" - 12" x 12" $6.00

Just follow the procedures that I laid out at the beginning of the thread.

Installed:



Man! ... Don't these tags make the ol' mut shine up like a brand new penny!!  I think they actually double the jeeps value.  I think I will run him by the gas station and fill up the tank.  That way I can TRIPLE his value!! Confused


Edited by jpet - 04 May 2011 at 11:35pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Frazer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2011 at 11:41pm
You sure have some nice art talent - and patience!!
 
Keep up the nice work - all of us "un-gifted" folks appreciate seeing it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2011 at 2:13am
No talent required really.  If you know how to print from a computer, use a clothes iron, slosh around a pan of acid, use a spray can and rub with a piece of scotch-brite, you can do it.
..... All that being said, It is not economical to make your own unless you are making at least 2 sets of plates.  You can buy them from dataplates4u.com for a very reasonable price and he does a better job.  I just did my own out of curiosity.  Making your own is only cheaper if your time is worth nothing.

Edit:  I would also add that you would not be able to sell them legally because they have a "WILLYS" logo.


Edited by jpet - 05 May 2011 at 2:14am
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"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ricco Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2011 at 9:15pm
Very interesting Jeff,  tell me...if I had a piece of magnesium block...say .918 high, and used this same process, how much relief could I expect to achieve?  I guess what I'm asking is could I make my own stamping dies with this process?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2011 at 9:30pm
I suppose.  I'm not sure how much relief you would get but when I did my plates, the acid never did eat the toner off.  I'm not sure how deep the etching went.  I just left them in the acid till I could feel a definite raised surface with may finger (with rubber glove of course).
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM"

"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 47goDevil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 2011 at 10:26pm
proof that one can polish a turd .   really put'n value to that jeep there .   good job . 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Longhunter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2011 at 5:43pm
Originally posted by 47goDevil 47goDevil wrote:

proof that one can polish a turd .   really put'n value to that jeep there .   good job . 
 
I saw the guys on Mythbusters do that so it is possible.
 
Big smile
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote trader_reed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 2011 at 6:27pm
Wow Jeff! Very good! I'm sure you'd sell a few governor and capstan warning tags made from zinc, the repo's are cheap and too thin. I need a capstan tag but would buy both to support The cause
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