Data Plates |
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11174 |
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I don't think I will get into making these. I've posted the procedure so maybe someone else could pick up on it. Like I said earlier, Robert de Ruyter makes these at a reasonable price and he can make anything that you provide him a pattern for.
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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sandusky
Member Joined: 19 Sep. 2010 Location: S.E. Iowa Status: Offline Points: 1775 |
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Nice Job Jeff, I've had that process used to etch aluminum mold cavities with leather grain texture, We refer to it as Photo-etching,this type of process is very much in use today in the automotive industry, it's used for injection molded parts as well as integral skin arm rests and pads. keep up the great work!!! Sandusky
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11174 |
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I discovered a way to make your data tags look 65 years old. Here is a tag that I made.....
Then I sprayed oven cleaner on it and let it sit overnight. Next morning I washed it off: These pictures really don't do it justice. I discovered this by accident when cleaning my frame |
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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garage gnome
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 12 Jan. 2011 Location: Western MA Status: Offline Points: 2834 |
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Thanks for that tip Jeff, I like to learn ways to make new stuff look old, especially for my '49.
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Nate
1953 3A, 1949 3A, 1947 2A, 1918 IHC Titan 10-20, 1905 IHC Famous, other hit n misses |
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PhillipM
Member Joined: 28 May 2012 Location: Jackson, MS Status: Offline Points: 560 |
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No need for that, use http://www.myfonts.com/WhatTheFont/ It takes a picture and identifies the font. It has to be a pretty good picture and everything but the type should be cropped for best results. There is also identifont.com
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thirtycal
Member Joined: 24 Mar. 2011 Location: Blossom, TX Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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A method that I found for painting etched metal was to dip it in paint thinner, then lay it flat and spray the paint on before the thinner evaporates. The paint will be thin enough that it falls to the low spots leaving the high spots bare. Much easier than trying to sand the high spots especially if the high spots aren't so high. Leave it to dry over night and hit it with a clear coat in the morning. Even an old crusty tag will look new. Oh and make sure the tag sits level. If it messes up all you have to do is let it soak in the thinner and start over.
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11174 |
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That is a great idea. Removing the paint from the raised letters is the hardes part. I will try that next time when I do data plates for Bam Bam.
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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thirtycal
Member Joined: 24 Mar. 2011 Location: Blossom, TX Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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The big flat spots may still need some touch up. They may have some shadowing around the edges, but that should be fairly easy compared to the rest of the small letters. I was restoring a cream separator and had tried the sanding method a few times with unsatisfactory results. I decided to try the trick I mentioned above after noticing the effect while cleaning the tag up. The deeper the etching the better it works.
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thirtycal
Member Joined: 24 Mar. 2011 Location: Blossom, TX Status: Offline Points: 33 |
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Here is how the last one turned out with out any sanding needed. This tag had actually been sanded and sandblasted before I received it. |
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