12V wiring diagram

Good info. Thank you

Bruce W wrote:  Hawk - Stop a minute, blink your eyes, shake your head, now look at your picture.  CJ2-A's use a three-post connector on the LF fender - one for the high beams, one for the low beams, and one for the park lights. The turn signal wires connect together with bullet connectors. In your picture, you can see the bullet connectors hiding behind the other wires. You also might want to get that extra nut out of there before it starts some mischief.   BW

LOL, X2

Lee

The yellows and blues are for the front turn signals. Walcks doesn't know what type of signals you might use, so they don't have a finished end.

If you have chosen to use turn signals, a 3-point terminal block is used in most cases. This is where the yellows all come together. Original terminal blocks had 2 terminals points. You didn't need more than 2 because the original 2A set up did not have turn signals.

This photo might help...

I wanted to let everyone know that on Saturday my 1948 Willys CJ2A turned over.

I've never felt so good.

With that being said thank you everyone.

A recap: the above wiring diagrams are going to get you exactly what you need.

Keep in mind that if you are using a ballast resistor it's a simple fix... Just put the ballast between your ignition switch and your coil.

Your coil will more than most likely state of your need a ballast resistor or resistance wire on the front of it. For example my new coil says "use with external resistor".

If it doesn't say something like that - chances are it has an internal resistor.

It's there to reduce the voltage so that your points, which are in your distributor, don't get too much voltage - if they do it will shorten thier life greatly.

Also your coil ground through the distributor - so if you are trying to start an old jeep - you need to also make sure the points are good or else your coil won't even be able to send spark in the first place.

I'm extremely greatful for everyone's help.

Thank you.

Edited by CJTWOA - 27 June 2016 at 2:51am

CJTWOA wrote: Thank you Charles! So a 4-post solenoid is the wrong solenoid? I was under the impression that with a 4 post solenoid you can send that 4th post - (the I post) - can be sent directly to the (-) on the coil to send full power to the coil during initial start at key turn (bypassing the ballast resistor momentarily). After that once the key springs back to run position the "I" post looses power (along with the starter pole) and then the power from the Run position on the key takes over and runs through the ballast resistor at a reduced voltage. Maybe this thinking is why I'm having issues.

I believe you're correct on how the four-post solenoid works, but I'm not positive. Whether or not it's the 'correct' one is based on how you wire up the system.

If you want the four-post and intend to wire it in the described fashion, then it's the correct part.

It would take a better wiring expert than me to completely answer your question.   I only know how my DJ was wired to run on 12v and it worked fine that way. Both cranking and charging.

I'm definitely not sure of the particulars of the entire function of a four post solenoid or how the bypassing (which I have heard ) of actually works and I don't dare want to mislead you there.

The last thing I think I KNOW is when I wired mine back up for 6 volt I changed back to a 3 post 6v solenoid and did away with the resistor which I discovered was required for only for a 6v coil when converted to 12 volt.    I 'think' a 6v coil actually puts out about 9 volts but don't hold me to that either. I'm far from a wiring expert. That's why I spent so much time making that drawing. My eyes aren't that great and I made my own wiring harness.



But I am pretty sure during my research that a internally resisted 12v coil doesn't require a external ballast resistor at all ....just don't leave the key on when the jeep is not running. This would hold true for either 6 or 12v because then you're in danger of burning up the points.

Later when I get home I'll look up a actual 12v wiring diagram for a DJ3A and we'll see what' kind of solenoid it requires. 3 post or four post.

Charles



Edited by PapaC - 24 June 2016 at 6:47pm

I don't know if this will help you or not but here's a wiring diagram I drew up for a DJ3A. At least some of the circuits should be similar.



IF I understand correctly with a internally resisted coil you shouldn't need a ballast resistor.

My motor was originally piece together wired for 12v, now converted back to 6. Originally had a 6v coil W/ ballast resistor on the firewall to work for 12V. Originally had a 4 post (wrong) solenoid. On the two smaller posts at the top of the solenoid only the small post nearest the passenger side fender was used. The other post had no wire hooked to it at all and it would crank and run.



Charles

Thank you guys - I'm still working at this - all this and I'm pretty sure my coil is bad - most likely going to get one with an internal ballast resistor instead.

Like this:

Everything except the starting circuit has been omitted due to extreme laziness



I don't remember which terminal it is on a 4 post solenoid, or you could use a three poster.



Edited by LesBerg - 22 June 2016 at 5:19am