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Need help!! Why are my brakes sticking??

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DiverDownJames View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiverDownJames Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Need help!! Why are my brakes sticking??
    Posted: 27 Oct. 2011 at 3:06pm
Flex line is the little rubber, or if replaced stainless steel flexible portion of line that goes between the normal lines where the flexing of the axle takes place (between axle and frame)  It can wear out and act like a very poorly inflating balloon, expanding and contracting some.  Typically it results in weak brakes, but you never know, stranger things have happened, and it's an easy one to check.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joshuatwatson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct. 2011 at 4:46am
Flex line??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote doug_g Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct. 2011 at 4:20am
I would inspect all the rear brake lines looking for a kink that keeps the fluid from returning to the master cylinder.  Also, make sure the flex line to the rear axle has not swelled.

Good luck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joshuatwatson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct. 2011 at 3:55am
Oh yeah.. And when I try to manually compress the brakes after the peddle has been pushed and released they won't go in.. I had to bleed the WC just to get the drum back on!! So, it's got to be either lines, new MC, or very doubtful but that both new WC's are bad.. Thoughts??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joshuatwatson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct. 2011 at 3:52am
Ok.. So I pulled the hub.. After further inspection everything looks good.. The adjusters are all the way in the spring is strong.. When you push the brake peddle the the brakes extend.. However the brakes aren't compressing back together.. It does it on both rear wheels but the drivers side is worse.. MC and WC are new lines are free and clear (at least they were).. So I doubt that I could have 2 bad WC's.. I'm questioning the MC however the front brakes work like they should.. So I'm leaning towards the rear lines as the guilty party.. I'm going to disconnect the rear brakes tomorrow and blow the lines out if that fixes the problem then I'll replace them so it doesn't happen again.. Any other thoughts or test I should try to narrow it down?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ralf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2011 at 3:17am
I would disassemble, clean, paint and replace worn parts and springs.  Start with good stuff and then follow the steps to adjust.  Worn and frozen parts will never work right so bite the bullet and do it right and there will be one less issue down the road.

By the way, after I rehabbed and installed my 11" cam adjusting brakes I found some latter 10" self adjusting brakes and replaced the 11" brakes.


Edited by ralf - 26 Oct. 2011 at 3:21am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joshuatwatson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2011 at 3:10am
Oh and by the way.. The brakes were working pretty good before it sat at the mechanics for 3 months!!! In fact they were the only damn thing that were working right!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiverDownJames Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2011 at 3:10am
I'd be willing to bet that your adjusters are the issue.  Might just want to consider replacing them.  I'd bet they are cheap as can be.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joshuatwatson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2011 at 3:09am
Well.. I tried to pop off the drums... Bahahhahahahahahahaah!! This sh*t is driving me CRAZY!!! They are tighter than a virgins... Well you get the point!! I'll have to borrow a puller tomorrow! I did notice that I could still turn the passenger rear wheel when they stick.. But it is noticeably harder.. The drivers side rear will not budge! I don't know what's up with that!! Oh and to top things off my little adjusters are looking pretty grim.. They look awfully rusty.. But I've got them soaking in some PB blaster. I think I'm going to name my jeep.. "baby ass"..... Because shut just keeps come'n!!! Thanks guys I'll report back tomorrow with pics!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiverDownJames Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2011 at 2:25am
Pop off the drums and take a picture, a picture is worth 1000 posts.  PM me it if necessary, I've worked on a few 44's and I might be able to spot the issue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ralf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2011 at 2:24am
Here you can clearly see both cams and how they are oriented.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ralf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2011 at 2:16am
Josh,

If you have the early style 11" brakes from a pick up with cam adjustors, here is what they look like.  Notice the cam right above the clips on the inside view.  On the back view you can see the adjustor end of the cam that you turn to adjust.  I think there is a little arrow to show which way to  turn




Edited by ralf - 26 Oct. 2011 at 2:22am
1947 CJ2A
1948 CJ2A
1953 Ford NAA Golden Jubilee Tractor

1941 J-3 Cub
1957 Farmall Cub Low Boy tractor
1942 Clarktor WW2 tug
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joshuatwatson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Oct. 2011 at 1:49am
It appears to just be the rear brakes (danna 44 with 11" brakes).. Any good articles on these??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Old Boy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Oct. 2011 at 6:54pm
Hi Josh, have you followed the procedure in the Mechanic's Manual? The shoes must be adjusted by turning the adjusters the correct way. I believe the brakes will stick on if the adjusters are turned the wrong way.
Looking at the rear of the back plate ( from the diff side ) the top left adjuster must turn anti clockwise, the top right clockwise, the bottom right anti clockwise and the bottom left clockwise.
Hope this helps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct. 2011 at 3:07pm
Another tip, I once honed a set of wheel cylinders out and re-built them with kits. The stone I honed them with left too coarse a surface so that the new cups would drag on the surface and the brake shoe return springs were not strong enough to release the shoes. I burned up the shoes before I got home. Were your wheel cylinders done this way, or all new? When they stick, is it all or just one?, a bad hose will not let the fluid go back to the master, I've been here too!LOL If you have 3/4 inch free play on the brake petal, your master should be returned all the way and not blocking the return hole for the fluid. When your brakes are locked, jack it up and turn the wheels. You will know. Expert again! John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joshuatwatson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct. 2011 at 7:44am
Well these damn brakes are still giving me fits!! I could understand if they stuck all the time but that don't!! And yes EVERYTHING is new.. And I've tinkered with the pushrod but still no luck.. And yes the peddle does return.. No the brake lights aren't on when they stick.

Any other ideas? They break free rather quickly but the drag really makes taking off a pain!! Can anyone point me in the direction of a good article on adjusting the brakes..front axle and brakes are stock rear is a Dana 44 with 11 inch drums and shoes...' Maybe im screwing up somehow..

Thanks!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiverDownJames Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct. 2011 at 3:01pm
Is the pedal returning all the way back to the correct position, and if you aren't sure, when they stick try slipping your foot underneath and pulling it with your toes.  I've run into this issue with my tractor, and with my brother's p.o.s. ford escort.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct. 2011 at 2:35pm
Do you have a master cylinder heat shield? ANd when the brakes stick on , are your brake lights on as well?
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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