1948 CJ2A restomod build

rocnroll wrote: Most any radiator shop will swap the outlets to either side you need for a nominal charge. They just solder a patch over the hole after they remove the outlet or inlet. I've had a couple done with no problems whatsoever. Makes for a much neater installation than running hose all over the place.

thank you Sir!  I'll look into that!  Your soldering skills must be superior to mine:  when i tried to resolder the upper outlet on the rad in my '72 chevy, it never would hold.  Even my dad, a lifelong bodyman couldn't get it to hold LOL!  But the aluminum rad from a '95 chevy pickup dropped in place with a few strategic pushes with a portapower

724wd wrote: Very nice project, Sir!  My daughter and I are doing something similar and it looks like you solved some problems we may encounter as well.  What Mustang radiator is that?  We have a I-4 153 GM with both radiator outlets on the passenger side.  I saw another member run a hose across the bottom of the radiator to reach the stock lower connection, and that is certainly an option, but I take it this Mustang radiator has the outputs correctly placed for GM engines? What prompted the carrier bearing front drive shaft?  We have a th350 slated for use and I had heard of interference issues, but yours is the first I've seen documented.  I had heard offsetting the drive train to the drivers side created clearance for a stock style drive shaft.  Is your engine mounted in the center, or was there some other issue that caused the interference? Again, you have a very nice rig there!  I am showing my daughter what you've accomplished for inspiration! Heath

Thanks Heath, it's a 68,69 from 289,302,351. Might be the same for other years too. Both inlet And outlet are on the pass side, which is what I need for the 4.3. It mounts to the grill with a little fab work, watch engine placement, because it sits behind the crossmember, so it's tight. I'm thinking if modifying the crossmember a bit so I can mover it higher a little bit.

My driveline is moved over to the driver side as much as possible,   Steering shafts limit how far u can go. The 2pc front shaft is because of the th350 and the dana300 I am running. The d300 is clocked flat, and the rear of it lower to ease the read DS angle.   So the front DS just barely does not fit.    The carrier bearing is only off center about 1".

A lot of people run the th350 in a Willys by using the d18 tcase. With both driveshafts dropping off low and to the pass side, the whole drivetrain can be lifted high enough for the front DS to just clear the tranny pan.   But you run into other clearance issues between the engine/tranny and body, it's like fitting 10lbs of crap in a 5lb bag.   Just not a lot of room under there.

Got some parts back from PAINT!   getting excited

Back from paint finally.

Started putting it back together,  got the column in,  its hard working on something with nice paint...I spent years working on this,  not giving a care as to where a tool, or part fell or banged against the jeep.    Much easier that way  this is stressfull

Man, looking GOOD!  Motivation for me.  Hmmm...got a 3 day weekend coming up finally, I think it's time to work on the old Jeep. 

Edited by DrPop - 22 May 2015 at 4:56pm

jpet wrote: Love the color. Looks good

Some did, some didn't.

I wish somebody could make a comparison with a real M38 piece to see if it was actually usable even with a little modification because this comes up every now and then here.

Slow progress after loosing a battle and way too much time to a defective master cylinder from O'Reillys Auto.  The thing just would not bleed, had to be something wrong with the seals.     I'll take part blame because I went against one of my chain parts store rules.  NEVER take the cheapest option.   It truly is cheap for a reason, but  they had it in stock and figured how could they screw up a MC.   That won't happen again.