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Parts Jeep Trail Build
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    Posted: 10 Apr. 2024 at 10:27pm

Fitted the seats with the new foam plus the yoga mat from before; they’re a little more stuffed and feel firmer than earlier. I’ll just have to drive it more and see if there is improvement. If not, 

I may just have to build up some callouses instead. Just don’t want to endure a week-long case of monkey butt during the CFCT.
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One of the most important updates is the seats, as I’m going to have to survive a week driving it. When they were improved a few years ago, I used what the craft stores were selling. It was referred to as “high density” so I tried it. It really didn’t live up to its name- it feels OK initially but fails to hold my scrawny behind up off the seat pan. By the end of a day of jeep driving I am ready to get out and just walk home.  So I’m thinking this calls for the right tool for the job, and that is factory seat foam. 


I went junkyarding looking for some modern OE materials in the back seats of hatchbacks and other cars with folding seats. Most of these are oddly shaped and have wires molded into them, so those wouldn’t easily work. I did find some 2nd and 3rd row seats in a Dodge van having foam that was thick and flat and seemed denser than anything I found elsewhere. It cost me $15. 


Using my table saw, bandsaw and a razor sharp machete’, I was able to get the foam to the size and shape needed.


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The tie rod upgrade went easier than anticipated. The jeep already had a one-piece tie rod, but I always felt it was a bit wimpy and had held onto the tie rods from a Wagoneer Dana 30 mentioned back in the early days of this project. I found some schedule 80 ¾” tubing to sleeve the solid rod from the pitman arm and some 9/16” round stock to sleeve the inside of the tie rod. Now we’re making use of both of the holes in the Wagoneer knuckle. The forward hole in the knuckle is a bit further ahead of the tie rod holes so the mechanical leverage is greater than before and the steering effort is even easier. The steering is now 6.5 turns lock to lock.
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Originally posted by Steelyard Blues Steelyard Blues wrote:

I have not use this myself but might be worth a try to preserve your work:


Micah
Interesting product; I was just going to use a coating of mud!
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Originally posted by Mike P Mike P wrote:

Great idea using the heat gun in the pipe. Is there any shrinkage/tightening of the wrap when it dries?
I stretched the wrap on as tight as I could, surprised my hands were so sore after. The manufacturer states it won't shrink if installed wet, but some users say it does. All I can say is that it's on there fairly tight now.
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I have not use this myself but might be worth a try to preserve your work:


Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

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Great idea using the heat gun in the pipe. Is there any shrinkage/tightening of the wrap when it dries?
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Originally posted by nofender nofender wrote:

You'll be happy with the wrap. The stuff works great. I've used it on numerous builds. 

One tip i can offer - drop the roll in a bucket of water. Wetting the wrap makes it  a little more flexible and "stretchable" which helps when you are wrapping odd shapes. When it dries it tightens up and holds shape. It's a little messy - but it works. I forget where I learned that trick. But I've used that method on all my builds.
Getting the wrap wet helped considerably, especially on the corners and bends. I stuck a heat gun into the pipe to drive off most of the water after it was on.  
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You'll be happy with the wrap. The stuff works great. I've used it on numerous builds. 

One tip i can offer - drop the roll in a bucket of water. Wetting the wrap makes it  a little more flexible and "stretchable" which helps when you are wrapping odd shapes. When it dries it tightens up and holds shape. It's a little messy - but it works. I forget where I learned that trick. But I've used that method on all my builds.
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Originally posted by dasvis dasvis wrote:

Originally posted by otto otto wrote:

Originally posted by dasvis dasvis wrote:

very nice looking. I have a few rolls sitting on the shelf that I plan on using on the Rat Patrol at some point.  Floorboards get damn hot.
 
Hopefully what you have on hand is quite lengthy. The long pipe in the pic is barely 3' long; It took 24' of a 25' roll. Hope it works.
It's way easier to install if you get it wet first. 

 Thanks for the tip.  I assume that you used stainless wire to secure the ends?
I couldn’t find any stainless wire, but I did have some galvanized fence wire. And hose clamps.  
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Originally posted by otto otto wrote:

Originally posted by dasvis dasvis wrote:

very nice looking. I have a few rolls sitting on the shelf that I plan on using on the Rat Patrol at some point.  Floorboards get damn hot.
 
Hopefully what you have on hand is quite lengthy. The long pipe in the pic is barely 3' long; It took 24' of a 25' roll. Hope it works.
It's way easier to install if you get it wet first. 

 Thanks for the tip.  I assume that you used stainless wire to secure the ends?
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Originally posted by dasvis dasvis wrote:

very nice looking. I have a few rolls sitting on the shelf that I plan on using on the Rat Patrol at some point.  Floorboards get damn hot.
 
Hopefully what you have on hand is quite lengthy. The long pipe in the pic is barely 3' long; It took 24' of a 25' roll. Hope it works.
It's way easier to install if you get it wet first. 


Edited by otto - 01 Apr. 2024 at 11:03pm
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very nice looking. I have a few rolls sitting on the shelf that I plan on using on the Rat Patrol at some point.  Floorboards get damn hot.
 
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This is the last exhaust post, I promise. If you ever get the desire to try exhaust wrap, buy 3 times the amount you estimate you’ll need. Even using the guides for determining this, I was short and had to order a longer length. I’ve never used this stuff before so it’s an experiment; much like a lot of the things on this jeep have been experiments. Curious if it lives up to the hype. 
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Originally posted by Steelyard Blues Steelyard Blues wrote:

It is because of that beautiful Luzon Red paint job you did! Tongue

Micah
Well, maybe. But this project has been on the page for twelve years, this is something new.
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It is because of that beautiful Luzon Red paint job you did! Tongue

Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

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I had ordered new bandsaw blades for the exhaust project, and they showed up today- after it was done. So I’ll be all set for next time. 


I created a list of updates for this winter and I’m getting to the end of it with the winch install. There was an optional task of a tie rod flip, but that would interfere with the PTO shaft. So the tie rods will stay where they are. However, I am going to upgrade them to the larger, stronger tie rods from the Wagoneer axle. This jeep is going to the Fall Colors Tour in September, and stronger parts will hopefully reduce a trail breakdown. The CFCT has created a new, longer list of its own.


The view counts on this project have jumped from just over 100K mid March and now it’s over 200K! What’s up with that? Crazy!
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Originally posted by tamnalan tamnalan wrote:

Good to know, thanks!   I seem to be buying a lot of stuff from Summit lately for my new trail jeep

Me too. I like that you know what brands the parts are BEFORE you buy. They don't try to hide it.
 Shipping is reasonable & returns super easy.
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1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty"
1964 Thunderbird convertible
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