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dodjh View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dodjh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Coil
    Posted: 01 Aug. 2012 at 3:49pm
I see...well...it is running now but I will put the Seafoam in it.  I don't like creating new problems when trying to fix old ones.
 
My brake M/C is dry so I can't reallly drive it until I find out where the fluid is leaking. I read a lot about the M/C last night and will do the best I can with it.
 
My Carburetor is the Carter.
 
Thank you for your hwlp!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote plowpusher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug. 2012 at 3:36pm
The reason for all the coil checking was to check for open circuit + to - checks the low voltage windings + to coil tower checks the high voltage windings the reason I said to go to the points after that is if you flick the points from closed to open you will get a spark if the system is working. Zinc is for the engine oil when you are breaking in a new engine it helps to keep cam wear down during break in. new cars run with rollers on the cam and don't have the valve spring pressure or resistance as a "flat tapit" cam and most modern oils don't have zinc in them any more. It is not for your fuel a lead additive/substitute  would be a consideration for your fuel. If the Seafoam doesn't work time to clean the card and rebuild it the idle circuits on these carbs are easily plugged.

when i grow up i wanna be a kid
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug. 2012 at 4:01am
no problem oh also check the jets on the carb, idk if your running solex or carter but if solex it never hurts to pull them and the filter screen and soak them in some new gas + carb cleaner give them a swirl and a nice soak. hope she runs right for you now
46 2a
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dodjh View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dodjh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug. 2012 at 3:59am
That sounds like a doable plan.....thanks for the help and advice.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug. 2012 at 3:47am
I go both personally. Some to hit it quick and then the in gas to help it clean out as u run it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dodjh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug. 2012 at 2:37am
Should the Sea Foam be used poured in the tank in this situation or added to the Carburater float bowl 
or another method? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Aug. 2012 at 12:21am
I'm not 100% but i don't think you should add it to the oil. Because the point of lead in the gas is to lubricate and protect the exaust valves soecificly the seats. Adding zinc to the oil won't help or do anything to them. However I'm no expert I'm sure someone else will chime in and help you out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dodjh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2012 at 11:37pm
I will do that...I don't remember where I read about putting zinc additive in the CJ-2or3A but is it OK to use in the oil?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scoutpilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2012 at 10:10pm
I agree with Schimms. Running some Seafoam through the system won’t hurt.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Schimms15 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2012 at 8:03pm
I agree. I added a lead subsitute it was from a case my dad got 30 years ago and it screwed over me pretty good pretty quick. Like within 2 hrs drive time. Open the carb and clean it out also sea foam helps.
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dodjh View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dodjh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2012 at 7:51pm
Would it build up, and that soon?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bronco306 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2012 at 5:56am
sounds like your getting spark. if its starts your coil is working. id check your carb for a buildup of "zinc" blocking your idle circuit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dodjh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2012 at 3:26am
EDIT.....On black to coil case and red to both CASE and high tension wire.....I meant red to + side of coil and to high tension wire.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dodjh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2012 at 3:22am
plowpusher.... I was going through the steps you listed and wasn't getting the readings you said I should if everything was correct on the CJ.
 
I came in to post and saw a couple more replys.  I read where Sean said That is correct if the points were closed there wouldn't be voltage to neg. side.
 
I went back outside and turned it over and it ran w/o a jumper wire to the coil neg. side.
 
The following is the readings I got. My multimeter must be junk or I am inept in using it.
 
On ohms, I was getting 1.8 to 4.0 on + side of coil to neg.side.
 
+ to high tension wire was 8.54.
 
Black to coil case and red to both case and high tension wire, I was getting 00.0 on former and 7.56 on the latter.(when you say high tension wire are you referring to inside the coil tower where the wire feeds, or the end of the removed coil tower wire itself or removing the coil wire from the Distributor and checking on that end of the coil wire?)
 
Key on w points closed 11.80 at + and 0.00 at neg.
 
When it is running I have to keep it throttled up or it will die. The air breather assembly is presently removed but when I put it back on wont it make it harder to get air to carburetor?
 
I'm not sure if this has anything to do with the idling but a put some engine oil supplement w/ zinc in the fuel tank...couple of cap fulls.  I was browsing the forum and saw a post referring to using the zinc in fuel, I thought. Maybe if I top off the tank it will probably not have much effect.
 
Any input will be greatly appreciated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sean Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2012 at 3:16pm
Originally posted by dodjh dodjh wrote:

... discovered the neg. side of coil was not getting juice with the key ON...to neg. side but was to + side...
That is correct if the points were closed:
  • when points are open: maximum voltage (6 or 12) on both + and - terminals
  • when points are closed:  max voltage on + terminal, ZERO volts on - terminal
Sean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TERRY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2012 at 2:37pm
Moving the points poses no shock risk, unless you are touching the HT coil lead.
Just connect the coil directly to the battery, then interrupt the circuit and a spark should jump, no need to use the points.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rory Kew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2012 at 6:07am
Plowpusher,
Thanks for the guideline on using a multimeter. Not being at all mechnically minded and a bit scared of shocking myself, particularly when dealing the coil. How can one flick the points open and closed without shocking yourself? Do you use a wooden dial, rubber handled screwdriver or can one simply use one's fingers?
 
Thanks again,
Rory
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dodjh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2012 at 3:23am
Thanks plowpusher.....I will do that tomorrow and post how it turned out.
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