frame paint |
Post Reply |
Author | |
willys522000
Member Joined: 19 June 2012 Location: Huntingdon Pa. Status: Offline Points: 204 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 14 Nov. 2012 at 7:37pm |
I have searched several threads on here about frame paint. One thread on SEM paint was interesting to me. One step application and in colors. Can anyone testify to how good this stuff is for frames?
Thanks Brett.
|
|
damar2yxr
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 23 Aug. 2010 Location: Watertown, Wisc Status: Offline Points: 2632 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Take a look at Eastwood's Chassis Black.
|
|
eat,sleep,jeep
Proud father of a Marine, Army Dentist, Navy Pilot and a Princess. LIFE IS GOOD! 43MB,47CJ2-A,48CJ2-A X2,70Jeepster Commando 1/2 cab,84CJ-7, |
|
sandusky
Member Joined: 19 Sep. 2010 Location: S.E. Iowa Status: Online Points: 1773 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Initially I painted my 2a with Eastwood chassis black when I started on my rebuild Then as I have a way of doing, I decided that because so much of the frame is seen I wanted it to be High gloss. I bought a Gallon of black acrylic enamel with hardener and re-shot the frame, springs, axles,steering linkage after everything was rebuilt. This seems to be a good hard finish and went right over the Eastwood coating without a hitch.I don't have alot of miles on my 2a yet so I can't say how it'll hold up to gravel, rocks and mud. Sandusky
|
|
Ryan
Member Joined: 09 Sep. 2011 Location: Fort Worth, Tx Status: Offline Points: 65 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I used Valspar Equipment Paint in gloss black. Looks great, and has held up well on my trailer for the last 3 years.
|
|
2008 Jk Unlimited
1946 CJ2A |
|
Fred Ashbrook
Member Joined: 25 Apr. 2009 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 238 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Brett,
I've not used that particular paint, but the 'one-step' description suggests acrylic enamel, which is a good finish, but will chip. If you want a tougher finish, you can use an acrylic enamel with a hardener (gloss, semi-gloss), or urethane. Both are 2 component, but give a superior finish - and can be gotten in any color you want. The urethane is the most chip resistant of the 3. Any of the 3 can be successfully sprayed by a hobbyist with minimal investment in a spray gun/compressor (and proper respirator & ventilation). For rattle-can painting, you are pretty much stuck with acrylic enamel of one sort or another. I would probably use Eastwood's Chassis Black, although SEM might be about the same stuff. Hope this helps, and good luck! |
|
Fred A
48 Lefty Virginia 48 Lefty |
|
willys522000
Member Joined: 19 June 2012 Location: Huntingdon Pa. Status: Offline Points: 204 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks Guys I was looking at a lighter color than the black. That's why I was curious about the SEM equipment paint.
|
|
Gun Goober
Member Joined: 02 Sep. 2012 Location: Claremore, Okla Status: Offline Points: 26 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I had my frame powder coated. Its gloss black and its held up well so far. My only problem is I haven't finished building that Jeep so it looks good it the garage, under florescent light.
|
|
Tom in RI
Member Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: RI Status: Offline Points: 1126 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Much of your success - regardless of brand - will depend upon how you prep the frame. If you sandblast before coating you will always have better longevity than if you put a coating over rust.
Rust never sleeps no matter what the paint manufacturer says.
Best: will last a long time like the sheetmetal on a modern car. Sandblast, epoxy prime, Urethane topcoat - the bad = it is expensive
Good: Blast and coat with traditional one part oxide primer with a one part top coat. Remember you can not use catalyzed paints over an uncatalyzed primer. The topcoat wont stick. This will all work very well especially if the jeep is not left out side 24/7. I have gotten 20 years with no rust on my GPW. It occasionally sees rain or snow but it is garaged 95% of the time. This is least expensive. Blasting off the rust is important.
Not so good: trying to paint over rust. All of us have probably experimented with miracle paints that claim they stop rust. An experiment here was on the daily driver that had a surface rust spot. it was sanded as best as possible (not blasted) coated with POR15 and topcoated with a single part enamel. It lasted a year before blistering. Its outside 24/7.
The SEM paint is pretty good! Its a single part so it is not a miracle cure. It flows well, dries hard and seems to be more durable than hardware store enamels.
As always - these are only my opinions - your actual mileage may vary.
|
|
WRMorrison
Member Joined: 28 Jan. 2006 Location: Mesa, AZ Status: Offline Points: 421 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I just had my frame blasted and then I painted with Rustoleum red primer and their gloss black. It looks great, and I'm sure it'll last quite a while for my purposes. The most expensive part was paying to have it sandblasted, but I also got a deal on that. Total cost to blast, prime and paint was less than $150.
-WRM
|
|
Lew Ladwig
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 01 Nov. 2005 Location: Lafayette, Co Status: Offline Points: 1492 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I sandblasted mine and did a high quality powder coat on it. I have 14,000 miles on her with half of that being off road trips including the CFFC trail rides. Not a scratch or chip in the powder coat. The axles I did in rustolium and I have a hard time keeping the paint on them. Many spots have flaked off, others scratched off.
|
|
Lew Ladwig
President of the CFFC and IFFC http://internationalflatfenderclub.com/index.html http://www.facebook.com/#!/InternationalFlatFinderClub |
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet |
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |