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Topic ClosedCARB ISSUES? Ask scoutpilot.

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luvtofish View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2014 at 1:01pm
My throttle shaft had some light wear on the ends where it rides in the throttle body. It measured .3115. The body had egg shaped holes on both ends. I measured .318 with a small hole gauge. The bushing ID is .3135 making a nice running fit without play. The accel pump was set correctly at time of rebuild. The engine revs up fine without any hesitation or stumble. For some reason my kit only came with 2 or 3 rivet plugs. Thanks for the pic, I'll be sure to leave that plug alone. I'm going do the leak test and vacuum test before I tear carb back down for another cleaning. Will keep you posted. Thanks SP!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2014 at 1:06pm
Test around the intake manifold studs as well. A bad gasket there will cause this. All screws and nuts should be tight. If you have to pull the carb, look for cracks in the throttle.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2014 at 2:41pm
SP- just ran a vacuum test. It's pulling 17 in at idle an drops to 0 when I punch it, then spikes up to 28, then back to 17/18.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2014 at 2:52pm
If the needle is steady at 17-18, with the choke all the way in, you're good.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2014 at 2:58pm
The choke is nearly closed and the needle is steady. So, you think a good cleaning is what is needed?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2014 at 4:16pm
Closed (horizontal), with that reading, is not good. Open (vertical), with that reading is great. Confused
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2014 at 4:44pm
Thanks. It's not fully closed. It has 1/4 in air gap around the choke plate. I'm tearing down the carb now. Going to remove the rivet plugs and check to see if the passages are clogged along with all the jets.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2014 at 5:38pm
Wiggle the throttle shaft.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2014 at 7:24pm
With the new bushings I drilled and reamed in to the body, the shaft is much, much, tighter than it was. There is no perceptible wiggle in the shaft now.

I found the low speed jet clogged upon dis-assembly. It had small very fine metal shavings in it. I'm putting a new screw in fuel filter on it upon reassembly. That low speed jet has a very tiny orifice in it. I can see how that one could easily clog and thereby shutdown fuel flow to the low speed circuit. I have the bowl soaking in a vat of carb cleaner now. All the other jets seemed to be clear and clean.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2014 at 7:47pm
Rick, I was wondering if you found out why the one batch of carb rebuild kits you got were making the carbs idle at 950?
Erik
1948 Cj2a "Rustina"
build pictures
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2014 at 8:36pm
Originally posted by luvtofish luvtofish wrote:

With the new bushings I drilled and reamed in to the body, the shaft is much, much, tighter than it was. There is no perceptible wiggle in the shaft now.

I found the low speed jet clogged upon dis-assembly. It had small very fine metal shavings in it. I'm putting a new screw in fuel filter on it upon reassembly. That low speed jet has a very tiny orifice in it. I can see how that one could easily clog and thereby shutdown fuel flow to the low speed circuit. I have the bowl soaking in a vat of carb cleaner now. All the other jets seemed to be clear and clean.

Yep. That will happen. Carry on young man. you're doing just fine.Big smile
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar. 2014 at 8:40pm
Originally posted by rrrrrrrrr9 rrrrrrrrr9 wrote:

Rick, I was wondering if you found out why the one batch of carb rebuild kits you got were making the carbs idle at 950?

Took a while to find the culprit. The width of the threaded head on the low speed jet(s) was just narrow enough to cause a vacuum leak. First time that ever happened to me. One more measurement to make next kit. You'll be receiving a PM a little later.Wink
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar. 2014 at 11:57pm
SP - Good News. The ole gal is idling much, much better now and with the choke plate wide open. The thing that seemed to correct my issue was a simple swap out of the import metering rod for the original Carter I took out during the rebuild. I also changed the rod bolt and spring back to the original. Have not checked the differences in dimensions yet, but something must be definitely different betwixt the to. I'm still running a tad rich it seems, may need fiddle further with the rod adjustment. Thanks for all your help and sound advice!!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr. 2014 at 7:56pm
Ok, been out in the garage all morning and scouring the pages here all afternoon... trying to find some help... so... really feel my issue is carburetor... but I just dont know what... so here is my issue:

Start the Jeep up, runs well for about a min or 2 and then begins idling very rough and then eventually dies. I can then start it right back up, runs good for a min or 2 and begins the process again. I have removed carb, cleaned jets, tested and same issue. Cleaned plugs and checked I have good strong spark... I do... same issue. What am I missing???  
Current: '48 CJ2A #188461, '97 Jeep TJ, 2010 JK Unlimited (wife's), and a '97 Jeep Cherokee
Sold: '71 CJ5, '61 Willys Wagon
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr. 2014 at 8:00pm
The next time you do this dance, look down the barrel of the carb and note if it is wet or not. Sounds like the carb is flooding out. That would be adjustment of the float (3/8" without the gasket in place.), or cleaning the needle and seat.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr. 2014 at 8:39pm
Scout, float is at 3/8". Not sure I follow the cleaning the needle and the seat. Is the needle just above the float? If so, ran air through it... all back together... same issue. Inside of carb (upper section) looked dry, throttle body flap appeared a bit wet though. 
Current: '48 CJ2A #188461, '97 Jeep TJ, 2010 JK Unlimited (wife's), and a '97 Jeep Cherokee
Sold: '71 CJ5, '61 Willys Wagon
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr. 2014 at 9:23pm
OK. For the benefit of those who have never been inside a WO.


A third possibility is that the adjustment tang on the float may be scratched or gouged. This condition can cause the needle to hang up and go askew, leaving the seat open.

If deep scratches or gouging are found, use wet-or-dry sand paper to smooth the finish. Readjust the float setting as necessary.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr. 2014 at 10:21pm
Thanks for the visual guide Scout... Mine did have a gouge, sanded down, re-checked float, cleaned needle and seat, re-installed... same issue :( Now keep in mind it was running fine a few months ago, and all of a sudden began doing this... 
Current: '48 CJ2A #188461, '97 Jeep TJ, 2010 JK Unlimited (wife's), and a '97 Jeep Cherokee
Sold: '71 CJ5, '61 Willys Wagon
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