CARB ISSUES? Ask scoutpilot.

Hey Richard. Most WO throttle shafts are nickel-plated brass. Steel began its use in '49. The correct shaft OD is .3125". I use brass in my shafts. The throttle itself should have an ID of .3125" Bushings come in two styles. Brass press-in inserts which require machine-shop precision reaming to 3/8" and setting as well as nylon strips installed as wrap-arounds on the shaft. I prefer the brass for the shafts and use the nylon for loose throttle lever pins. Some old-school carb mechs would braze the two pieces together as a last resort. If you are going to do this yourself, use caution in choosing your source for the brass. Highest quality you can find is the key. Bushings are about $1 apiece through a number of sources.

ID vs OD is not as exactly the same as you might think. The fit is that precise so that a vacuum leak cannot occur along the length of the shaft where it passes through the throttle. 

Hello scout pilot,

I am a long-time reader and first-time poster. I bought a '48 CJ2a three years ago. At that time the Carter WO Carb was leaking onto the exhaust manifold so I had it rebuilt as I prefer to have fires inside of a firepit. It worked wonderfully for about a year. Now the jeep will stall out after being driven down the road and being warmed up. It will idle all day if I don't throttle up. I have read all of the previous posts in this thread and can not find a similar problem/solution.   Suggestions are appreciated.

Hey scoutpilot,

Took the Jeep up to the local oldtimer mechanic to double check the coil, fuel filter, dwell, fuel pump. He says he is sure it is a carb. issue. I took the carb off and blew air up through the bottom out the top and dumped out whatever liquids were present. I reinstalled it and have the same problem. What other screws do I need to remove to blow air through? Should I get a rebuild kit and replace the seals after removing the screws or will taking out the screws and reinstalling them be ok?

Thanks,
John

I purchased a Master rebuild kit from Peter DeBella. Do you know if that kit comes with the metering rod adjustment tool?

All right. For those of you who are inclined to the DIY side, I have made this little video about setting the WO Metering Rod.

My carb finally gave it up yesterday. It's running way too rich no matter what I do.

Scoutpilot, the hot rod shop is telling me the cross shaft linkage is loose And allowing air to by pass causing hard idle.   We spray carb spray in the linkage shaft and she idles higher. Is there away to fix the looseness of the linkage? I'm being told possible the bearings or seals on it? But that it requires a special tool?   

scoutpilot wrote: <font face="Courier New, Courier, mono" size="3">It's not a problem with the linkage. The problem is the shaft and throttle base are worn beyond tolerance. As I just told Lesberg, the throttle shaft should be perfectly round and the passages it fits through need to be perfectly round. The shaft, when new is .3125"OD. The passages, when new are .3125"ID. After 65+ years the two have worn into an egg shape, allowing air to get by, causing a vacuum leak which is odds-on your idle issue. The throttle needs bushings and the shaft needs to be replaced. <font face="Courier New, Courier, mono" size="3">A competent technician can bore, ream and seat the bushings. A good used shaft can be installed or a new one needs to be machined.

Thank you for the reply, my fault for not reading the previous poster. Much apologies scoutpilot.   Would this problem also cause the mixture screw not to do anything? We turn in or out nothing changes.