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Slow cranking engine that doesn't like to fire

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Carlsjeep View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carlsjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2014 at 3:57pm
It's true, if the engine fires early it will impede the speed of the starter turning the engine. But, the starter will turn the engine in surges, that is, the engine seems to stop turning as each cylinder fires. BUT, that is an unusual condition. 

Borrow or buy a timing light and see if the engine is in time or close to time. Have you tried moving the dist. as the engine is running? Does it smooth out or get rough as you move it back and forth? 

Have you checked where the rotor is pointing when the #1 cylinder is on TDC and compression? 
Life is only as good as you make it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2014 at 4:05pm
Are you thinking cam timing is off? Engine would run pretty poorly and probably warm, and have a serious lack of power if that is the case.....
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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sandusky View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sandusky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Apr. 2014 at 5:47pm
No I think the cam is correct. I'm leading between the one tooth off scenario (oil pump) to get the timing close. Yes we have checked with a timing light,I'll borrow a dwell meter this week after I get my starter back with report. we had to turn the distributor until it wouldn't go any further and possibly a dragging starter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carlsjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr. 2014 at 4:53am
Well, if you have 5 deg advance, the right firing order and a good starter with good electrical connections the engine should turn over nicely and start easily.
Life is only as good as you make it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote splinterguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr. 2014 at 2:08am
I had this problem with mine and it turned out to be a bad battery cable. Corrosion had worked it's way in under the insulation at one end. Caused a voltage drop in that part of the circuit. Might be worth a second look.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CmK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr. 2014 at 3:06am
Just curious, does the slow cranking only happen during cold starts, or on warm starts, too?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SlowPocono Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr. 2014 at 3:18am
Originally posted by plowpusher plowpusher wrote:

Pull the coil wire if it cranks faster it's an ignition problem if it still cranks slow it's not. 


Absolutely correct and simple.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sandusky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr. 2014 at 8:53pm
Update, I'm methodically going to debug this. Got the starter back it checked out just fine! Next to the Cables I've already cleaned up the ground connection points. I might pick up a 6 volt solenoid and bypass my el-cheapo foot starter button.Thanks for all the input. It snowed here yesterday so I've calmed a little, but Spring Fever is right around the corner!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ralf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr. 2014 at 10:07pm
This is very basic.  A 6 Volt system needs a good ground to starter.  I ran a heavy cable from where the negative lead from the battery attaches to the frame, directly to the front mount of the starter where it bolts to the side of the block.  With this method you can at least rule out a poor ground and troubleshoot other issues.  Yes, remove the battery cables and dress the ends and then slather them in petroleum jelly, this works better than any product I ever tried.  Where the negative lead bolts to the frame, dress that area to bare steel when you attach the heavy cable to the starter I suggested.  Slather that in petroleum Jelly as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3ferris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr. 2014 at 1:14am
Actually contax that us electricians use is the best.  It is made just to stop corrosion.  I use it on all my veh.  I re apply it  once in the lifetime of a battery. 
 
And back to your problem...mine acted that way before And I went to the FORD tractor supply and bought an identical floor starter switch as mine was worn out and not makeing good contact.


Edited by p3ferris - 16 Apr. 2014 at 1:16am
Ed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote johnnybravo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr. 2014 at 9:19pm
Been thinking about the "El cheapo" , I totally agree with p3f get a quality replacement.
Ret. USAR-Vet, 6-GPW's,, 1-M38 w/M-100, 1-47 WO "Jeep" 4X2 Wagon, several ruff CJ2&3A's, 1-CJ3B,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sandusky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr. 2014 at 8:39pm
Problem solved! It is such a relief to have overcome this ongoing problem.I appears to have been(so much for systematically solving the problem) a faulty floor mounted switch. I've replaced it and at the same time, to lessen future failures added a 6 volt solenoid.I also went through and cleaned up all my grounding cables and contact points to frame and engine.giving everything a good coat of contax. Upon replacement of the switch the engine cranks over at a much faster rate and fires right up.Ive also checked and now we aren't showing any drain on the battery with the key in the off position,I believe the old switch was causing this issue but can't prove it. Or I possibly had a wire out of place.Before my battery would be drained in 2 days of sitting.Now my trickle charger will hopefully be needed only for Winter storage. Thanks to All of your guidance,next on my list is the transfer case output shaft seal and a Speedy Sleeve. Sandusky
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dennisanvil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr. 2014 at 1:15am

great job. happy for you.

dennis

dennisanvil                   1948 cj2a, maker of tailgate hooks & hand forge iron ware
there not any knowen cure for jeep fever.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote johnnybravo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr. 2014 at 1:43am
X2 glad your back wheels are rolling forward!
Ret. USAR-Vet, 6-GPW's,, 1-M38 w/M-100, 1-47 WO "Jeep" 4X2 Wagon, several ruff CJ2&3A's, 1-CJ3B,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dennisanvil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr. 2014 at 2:11pm

Originally posted by johnnybravo johnnybravo wrote:

X2 glad your back wheels are rolling forward!

I bet that the back wheel roll backward too.  LOLLOL

dennis


dennisanvil                   1948 cj2a, maker of tailgate hooks & hand forge iron ware
there not any knowen cure for jeep fever.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sandusky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr. 2014 at 3:06pm
A minor setback. I picked up a new floor mounted starter switch at the local farm&home . Thinking it will have less load on it and should handle the juice to the solenoid without a problem.We installed it and the engine started and ran fine ,I had been reaching in and pushing the switch with my hand ,I was just getting ready to take her out for a spin so I sat in the drivers seat turned on the key pushed down on the floor switch and Nothing ! I try it a second time and hear some bad electrical sounds coming from the switch now I see a red glow and the El-Cheapo floor switch has laid over Physically broken causing electrical failure! I pull the pos. cable and head for Napa,a 40 mile trip they stock 2 switches just a couple bucks differenceI buy the Napa/Echlin switch. Today I shall install .Im considering putting a small momentary switch to use as a starter button up under the dash within easy reach. Wouldn't it be great if these were the only set backs in life. Sandusky
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TERRY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr. 2014 at 3:13pm
If you are activating the solenoid with the floor starter button, it should be a very small current draw that any switch should handle.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote johnnybravo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Apr. 2014 at 3:18pm
More wires equal more trouble.
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