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NOS Engine Block

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    Posted: 28 Aug. 2014 at 4:52pm
Hello Folks,

I'm looking for a consensus and any other input you might like to share...  

A dollar value on an NOS L-134 engine-- block only...in a crate.  The pictures look legit.

I don't have the casting or serial numbers yet.

Tim
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chasendeer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chasendeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug. 2014 at 6:09pm
$1000 if it is machined ready to be cleaned and assembled.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote w114kav Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug. 2014 at 6:42pm
I spent $600 getting my old block back up to snuff. I would think that it being NOS would put another $100 or $200 on top of that. Say $750?

$1000 seems high - but I am not from California Embarrassed

To me an original block is more valuable than a NOS one. Although, some people do not have the luxury of having their original block.



 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocketeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug. 2014 at 10:12pm
Bare block or short block? Bare block maybe $300-$500, short block upwards of $1000.

Larry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carlsjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug. 2014 at 12:05am
I'm with rocketeer, I think it's about $400. As I said on the 3A site I would prefer a good used block that has been seasoned in use. That NOS block may not be a NOS block, it may be faked to get more money.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocketeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug. 2014 at 1:05am
If it is NOS it better have std bores for starters. Any deviation is a red flag.

Larry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote johnnybravo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug. 2014 at 2:28am
Wonder if has Brg caps?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug. 2014 at 2:11pm
Gentlemen, 

Thank you for the input.  These blocks are bare.

Through PMs, I've had some additional help on this from a 2A member.  

The casting number is: 908756.  
The crates are labeled: TCP ( Transportation Parts Corporation  )
They are coated with a dull reddish color.

These were part of the inventory from a local Denver business called Mile High Jeep Rebuilders and were purchased by them in the late '70s.  When the business closed, most of the inventory was sold. The owner kept a few items for himself.

Tim


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocketeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug. 2014 at 2:17pm
Assuming the main bearing caps are there the value lies in a std cyl bore and, if they are also installed, NOS cam bearings, other than that it's just another block, IMO.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug. 2014 at 2:45pm
That's kinda what I was thinking too.......just another (expensive) block unless you just want to leave it in the crate as a novelty (then it becomes REALLY expensive block)

If you put alot of worth in crates I've got one I'd sell too.....it's a nice wooden crate my Dana 44 came in. Would make a good man cave coffee table, with all the military markings ( Barstow, if I remember correctly)






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug. 2014 at 4:06pm
It may be different in other parts of the country, but here in Colorado, L-134 blocks, in any condition, are fairly rare. At least blocks that are for sale.

We have a lot of hoarders out here.    And they rarely part with the good stuff.

I scan Craiglist on a regular basis. In 2 years, only one old 3A engine has come up for sale. It is seized, but I bought it anyway.

Tim

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug. 2014 at 4:16pm
Are you needing a particular year block or just a 'builder'?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2014 at 3:19am
They look legit to me. Clean crack free blocks are getting very hard to find. Machine shop service is not cheap either, no offence to anyone, but if you would rather spend your hard earned dollars cooking, sleeving, fitting cam bearings, cutting the deck, in an old, overheated, warped and abused block, go for it!. I would spend $800 on a NOS block.

MHO, Lee
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocketeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2014 at 3:43am
I think a lot depends on just how bare they are. Main bearing caps, cam bearings and valve guides would be a concern for me. If the bearing caps are missing in a line bored block, finding a workable matching set of caps is something I only ever tackled once and will never do again. Still, $800 for a bare block seems high, no offense, but each person has to set their own standards based on their own circumstances so who am I to judge. Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2014 at 4:05am
I guess since I know some of those hoarders, I should ask what block you are actually looking for...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2014 at 4:46am
Originally posted by rocketeer rocketeer wrote:

I think a lot depends on just how bare they are. Main bearing caps, cam bearings and valve guides would be a concern for me. If the bearing caps are missing in a line bored block, finding a workable matching set of caps is something I only ever tackled once and will never do again. Still, $800 for a bare block seems high, no offense, but each person has to set their own standards based on their own circumstances so who am I to judge. <img src="smileys/smiley1.gif" alt="Smile" title="Smile" />


Years back I purchased 2 F head blocks just like these in crates on a county surplus auction. W/MBcaps, valve guides and cam bearing and painted the primer red color. If these are Like L head blocks $800 would be a fair price. If not Rocketeer, you would be correct!

Lee
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2014 at 1:46pm
Rocketeer--I will see if the blocks have the caps.  I hope they do.  I wouldn't have even thought that they wouldn't.  I can see how hard it might be to find a workable set.

Rocknroll, Joe Friday --I'm not looking for anything in particular.  I don't have an immediate need.  I just want to have a few back up engines or blocks.  Either to tinker with, or to use, if and when needed.  And thanks to Joe Friday for some additional help and information on this.

It would be preferable if these blocks were NOS 2A, 3A, M38, but at this point, it doesn't really matter that much to me.  I don't have the luxury of being overly picky.

I think I agree with Lee here.  An NOS block would seem to be a good choice.  We all know folks that have a need for a replacement block and have had a hard time finding one that isn't cracked...or bored to .060 over, or more.  We don't have many reputable machine shops in my market, so this kind of work is very expensive.

I appreciate all the input.

Tim  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep. 2014 at 2:19pm
Adding to the picture, a machine shop just charged me 500.00 to sleeve a .060 over block. That's not far from 800.00. I never thought about no valve guides though. Interesting deal, and it gives you a very good reason to begin looking for your next project!LOL Makes total sense to me!WinkWink Wink John
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