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Easiest Way to Change a Fuel Pump

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48WillysBill View Drop Down
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    Posted: 30 Sep. 2014 at 12:04am
I have a 1948 CJ2A which recently experienced a fuel pump problem requiring it to be replaced.  

I thought I could get by crawling under the Willys to remove the fuel pump.  After an hour of making minimal progress, I decided to remove the driver's side fender (approximately 10 bolts that connected the fender to the frame, tub and front grill - and removal of a few items that were attached to the fender within the engine compartment).  

Once the fender was removed, it took about 10-minutes to remove the old pump, another 5-minutes to clean the engine block area where the fuel pump is attached, and another 10-minutes to attach the new pump.  

Removing the fender makes this an easy one-person job with a minimal amount of effort.  AS AN EXTRA BONUS, keep in mind that the pump needs primed with fuel.  After talking to Carl Walck at Walck's 4WD center, I removed the fuel line between the new pump and the carburetor and then cranked the starter (using the key like you would when normally starting the vehicle).  This allowed air to go through the fuel line, through the pump and eliminate air locks.  Within a matter of minutes the engine started.  

As a suggestion, make sure your battery has a fresh, solid charge on it as the cranking will take longer than normal in order to get fresh gas through your system.  

Good luck with your gas pump swap out.  I hope this makes your maintenance easier!
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damar2yxr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote damar2yxr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2014 at 12:32am
I also wonder if changing out the fuel pump bolts for the kind used in the M-38---which are longer---would be helpful?........Dunno......just a thought.
eat,sleep,jeep

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocketeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2014 at 1:04am
Originally posted by damar2yxr damar2yxr wrote:

I also wonder if changing out the fuel pump bolts for the kind used in the M-38---which are longer---would be helpful?........Dunno......just a thought.

No, the M38, if memory serves, uses a spacer and requires the longer bolts. Without the spacer they would be too long.

By the way, removing the fender is the way to go when adjusting the valves too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scoutpilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2014 at 1:18am
Thumbs up on the valve adjustment without the fender in place. I use Allen head bolts when I change pumps and don't think twice about not removing the fenderBig smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1955cj5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2014 at 1:33am
Using Allen head bolts is a great idea!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BorderBrewer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2014 at 2:12am
You can get to the hex head bolts easily using a 1/4" drive socket with an extension. Don't even have to pull the fender.
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BorderBrewer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Willy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2014 at 2:39am
There were a few fuel pumps changed on the side of the trail during last weeks Fall Colors Tour. They were changed and back to running in 20 - 30 minutes, so they are not that difficult. 1/2 socket, short extension and ratchet plus necessary wrenches for fuel lines are all that are needed for removal.
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Bruce W View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2014 at 3:36am
Originally posted by Red Willy Red Willy wrote:

There were a few fuel pumps changed on the side of the trail during last weeks Fall Colors Tour. They were changed and back to running in 20 - 30 minutes, so they are not that difficult. 1/2 socket, short extension and ratchet plus necessary wrenches for fuel lines are all that are needed for removal.
  Merely opening your hood on the trail draws attentionEmbarrassed, if it's open more than 5 minutes you'll draw a crowdOuch. I'd hate to see what would happen if you took the fender off on the trail!Shocked        Wink BW
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2014 at 4:13am
Yeah, the trail fix was a bit more complicated by the presence of the King Seeley governor and linkage.
but I think it was still 15-20 minutes...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scoutpilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2014 at 10:05am
Having small hands helps as well. Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wiseguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep. 2014 at 8:37pm
I used a Dremel and cut a couple slots in those bolts to get at them with a flat head.
~ Wiseguy ~
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct. 2014 at 4:56am
quick tip for starting a jeep after running the fuel pump dry: propane torch.
turn on the ignition and open the choke. Open the valve on the torch all the way, DO NOT LIGHT IT. Stick the end of the torch just under the choke plate and thumb the starter. The propane will turn the motor over and start it with an empty carb. Run the torch when you see gas from the booster or the accelerator pump when you goose the throttle.
 
NOTE: you may have to crack the throttle at first to let the propane past the closed plate. After it starts, it should be fine with the throttle 'at rest'.
 
It saves a lot on the starter motor, just be careful of the propane vapors.


Edited by LesBerg - 02 Oct. 2014 at 5:00am
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