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Stanford Father & Son Project |
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stanford1946cj2a 
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Joined: 14 Oct. 2014 Location: Maypearl, TX Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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 Topic: Stanford Father & Son ProjectPosted: 28 Oct. 2014 at 8:44pm |
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My dad brought home this CJ2A sometime around 1995. It had been used on a farm before he got it. He bought it with no engine in it but it came with a crate engine with a crack in the block and the original engine which was rusty. The jeep sat a our house and then at my grandparents ranch for years. I am about to leave for college and we decided it is time that we begin the process. The Process has begun!          Edited by stanford1946cj2a - 21 Apr. 2017 at 5:49am |
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Marshall Stanford
1946 Willys CJ2A Father Son Project |
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stanford1946cj2a
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Joined: 14 Oct. 2014 Location: Maypearl, TX Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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Posted: 28 Oct. 2014 at 8:47pm |
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Starting to disassemble and found rust and water in the trans
    Edited by stanford1946cj2a - 14 July 2019 at 11:22pm |
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Marshall Stanford
1946 Willys CJ2A Father Son Project |
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stanford1946cj2a
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Joined: 14 Oct. 2014 Location: Maypearl, TX Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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Posted: 28 Oct. 2014 at 9:55pm |
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I am sanding and blasting parts of the body right now. FYI, I don't plan to restore this to immaculate condition. It is basically our hunting/off roading jeep that we plan to beat not baby and I'm just looking to stop the rust and slap a coat of paint on that wont chip or peel. Anyone have any suggestions for rust reformers, primers, etc. and how I should go about the process?
Thanks
Edited by stanford1946cj2a - 14 July 2019 at 11:23pm |
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Marshall Stanford
1946 Willys CJ2A Father Son Project |
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jeeper50
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Sponsor Member Joined: 01 Mar. 2008 Location: Spanish Fort AL Status: Offline Points: 2579 |
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Posted: 28 Oct. 2014 at 11:17pm |
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I used a rust converter product called must for rust, got it in a 16oz spray bottle from my local hardware store. It works good. For lusterless paint that lasts for years try Rapco paints online, true MIL SPEC Gillespie paint, several camo colors to choose from. stir or shake well to mix the flat colors right beftore painting. I used a enamel safe roller to apply. Iused it on my '56 CJ% for hunting.
http://www.rapcoparts.com/padenew.html Edited by jeeper50 - 28 Oct. 2014 at 11:20pm |
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Belleview ol skool winch soon. '48 CJ2A 283 V8 sm 420 granny low, tera low D18, overdrive,lockers Texan at heart,Alabama by retirement |
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Randy Snyder
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Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Terre Haute, IN Status: Offline Points: 1566 |
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Posted: 29 Oct. 2014 at 12:00am |
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Interesting Jeep. Appears to have a full-float rear axle, MB windshield and fenders but has a CJ-2A tub and grill. Could be a WWII Jeep. Do you have a serial number from tag at driver's side front bumper frame horn or from firewall or dash?
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'46 2A #13943
'46 2A #26236 '45 T3-C #436 |
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stanford1946cj2a
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Joined: 14 Oct. 2014 Location: Maypearl, TX Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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Posted: 29 Oct. 2014 at 2:46am |
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Randy,
Yes! it is number 60,491. Im fairly sure it is a 1946 cj2a with an MB windshield, hood, and fenders. They even have some military green paint below the red. Everything seems to fit very nicely though. As for the full floating rear axle, I heard that some of the Early 1946's still had the full floater. Am I correct in thinking that it is a very weak axle though? **UPDATE** Upon further research the axles are from a Ford GPW. jeeper50, Thanks for the tips! I do plan to spray the jeep with a harvest tan. My main worry is getting a primer that will stick and adhere well to the paint and also something to really put a stop to the rust. I have considered using the rustoleum rust reforming rattle can paint then sanding that down and going over that with the rustoleum auto body primer. Anybody had any experience with rustoleum? How would it compare to the expensive high end stuff? Thanks again
Edited by stanford1946cj2a - 14 July 2019 at 11:24pm |
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Marshall Stanford
1946 Willys CJ2A Father Son Project |
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Randy Snyder
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Posted: 29 Oct. 2014 at 3:03am |
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Marshall,
If that is the serial number on the frame, then it is a CJ-2A. It would be nice to see a photo, if you could post one. Yes, the '45 and early '46 model CJ-2A's had the full float axle. This was a carry over from WWII Jeeps but with different axle ratio. As far as being weaker, that's the going story that it was a stronger axle (semi-float). I can't say one way or another.... Randy
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'46 2A #13943
'46 2A #26236 '45 T3-C #436 |
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stanford1946cj2a
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Joined: 14 Oct. 2014 Location: Maypearl, TX Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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Posted: 29 Oct. 2014 at 1:01pm |
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Thanks Randy! and yes I will try to get a photo of the frame tag!
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Marshall Stanford
1946 Willys CJ2A Father Son Project |
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stanford1946cj2a
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Joined: 14 Oct. 2014 Location: Maypearl, TX Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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Posted: 29 Oct. 2014 at 1:02pm |
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Those of you who have done frame and body work, what guage steel should I use for the body panel repairs. Also I am going to be boxing spots of my frame. What guage do you suggest for boxing the frame?
Thanks for the help
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Marshall Stanford
1946 Willys CJ2A Father Son Project |
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stanford1946cj2a
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Joined: 14 Oct. 2014 Location: Maypearl, TX Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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Posted: 30 Oct. 2014 at 1:10pm |
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Beginning to tear it down. Does anyone know how to remove the glass from the windshield frame so that I can sandblast the frame? I can no figure it out. It does not look like the hinge is supposed to come apart.
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Marshall Stanford
1946 Willys CJ2A Father Son Project |
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rocnroll
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Posted: 30 Oct. 2014 at 1:26pm |
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Start soaking your windshield hinge with your favorite rust buster now.....(I like Silikroil, it smells good)
Removal is generally a two person job (or, it's easier that way) If you'll notice on the driver side windshield post there is a small indention....if you raise the winshield all the way up, the frame should slide out of the hinge (with a little prodding) toward the driverside. |
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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stanford1946cj2a
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Joined: 14 Oct. 2014 Location: Maypearl, TX Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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Posted: 30 Oct. 2014 at 1:58pm |
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Thanks so much! I will start soaking it asap! BTW your build is awesome!
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Marshall Stanford
1946 Willys CJ2A Father Son Project |
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rocnroll
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Posted: 30 Oct. 2014 at 2:11pm |
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Thanks....good luck with the project.
(A rubber mallet/wood block may also be helpful.) |
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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WeeWilly
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Posted: 30 Oct. 2014 at 2:35pm |
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To add to what Chad recommended I found a long adjustable bar clamp like used for gluing up wood panels helped a lot by keeping constant pressure on it while tapping with soft mallet.
Jim |
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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stanford1946cj2a
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Joined: 14 Oct. 2014 Location: Maypearl, TX Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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Posted: 30 Oct. 2014 at 3:04pm |
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smart idea! I will try that also!
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Marshall Stanford
1946 Willys CJ2A Father Son Project |
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tumbleweed
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Joined: 31 Jan. 2011 Location: Bedford, Texas Status: Offline Points: 654 |
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Posted: 30 Oct. 2014 at 3:19pm |
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Marshall,
I thought that I recognized the town. Good luck with your rebuild. I am in Bedford so we are not that far apart. Regards, George (Tumbleweed)
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stanford1946cj2a
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Joined: 14 Oct. 2014 Location: Maypearl, TX Status: Offline Points: 254 |
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Posted: 22 Nov. 2014 at 4:25am |
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George,
Its great to know that there is someone close!
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Marshall Stanford
1946 Willys CJ2A Father Son Project |
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autolite
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Posted: 22 Nov. 2014 at 5:59pm |
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Also looks like the passenger fender is M.B.GPW for I can see what looks like the support straps for the military VRY type voltage regulator.
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willys jeep
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