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D18 front yoke to tight

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bretto View Drop Down
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    Posted: 26 Nov. 2014 at 12:48pm
I've attempted to chase away a few leaks on the case. Upon putting everything back together, I noticed that I cannot torque down the front yoke down without it locking up the shaft from turning. I also notice that the front output shaft can be moved in and out about 1/8 of inch when the yoke is off. I can't remeber if I noticed this or not on my rebuild way back. I have put over 1000 since the rebuild and have never noticed anything odd. I have tried to look to see if the yoke may be dragging when it get snugged down but it doesn't appear it is. I also pulled the felt out thinking it was causing drag but it didn't. I just don't get it and why the movement In and out.
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bretto View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bretto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov. 2014 at 12:55pm
Also to note, if I just tightened it enough before it gets too tight, I can line up the hole I the shaft and the castle nut and put in the cotter pin and everything feels snug. I don't if this is how I did it before and just said screw it or what, just doesn't seem right though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocketeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov. 2014 at 4:23pm
A common error is putting the seal in backwards which will cause the problem.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bretto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov. 2014 at 4:49pm
As far as I know the seal is in installed right and it actually sits below the surface of the tcase face so I don't think the yoke could be rubbing it.  Is it normal to have the in and out movement of the shaft before the yoke is tightened?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adrian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov. 2014 at 5:14pm
Just assembled the front output on mine last night, the seal goes fully home into the housing (ie: until it bottoms out)  with a small gasket behind it, then the felt and then the yoke.

I measured the distance from the face of the seal to the bearing face behind it  and it worked out that it just loads the felt slightly....which I guess it supposed to do.

So yoke bottoms out on the inner part of the bearing and this gives a face for it to all load up againest when you tighten the nut.

Adrian


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov. 2014 at 5:37pm
  Are you using the old yoke, or replacing it with a new one? There was some discussion in the past about repro yokes being shorter and causing problems.  BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bretto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov. 2014 at 6:36pm
Old yoke, as in the one that was there.  I have a few other old junk ones.  I will measure them and see how they stack up.


Edited by bretto - 26 Nov. 2014 at 6:39pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bretto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov. 2014 at 7:30pm
Sheesh, you know, now that I'm thinking about it, I think I was referring to the rear seal that is driven inward.  I will have to take another look at the seal on the front, perhaps it isn't driven in far enough and it is rubbing the felt.  I'm going to feel like a dope if that's all it is.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adrian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov. 2014 at 9:09pm
The manual has a nice cross section drawing that shows the  seal fully seated.....I think both ends are the same though.

Adrian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bretto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov. 2014 at 10:17pm
you are right
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bretto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov. 2014 at 3:22am
The seal wasn't in as far as it could go . It torqued down properly and still rotates. Thanks guys.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adrian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Nov. 2014 at 8:06am
Bretto, good to see you got it sorted, just finished painting up my TC casing and will start adding the internal bits tomorrow, so stay tuned.....

I'll practice on the TC before I deal to the gearbox.....

Adrian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scuba82 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2014 at 9:15pm
Adrian...While you are installing the internals of the t/c, especially the main shaft. Can you notice if there is some play on your output shaft gear? This is the problem (it may not be a problem but I thought it was) I came across so I made sure to get a new thrust washer and snap ring yet still it did not close the gap. Let me know what you find, I appreciate it. I think it it causing my grumbling/growl noise when my jeep is coasting/in neutral. Thank you!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adrian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Nov. 2014 at 10:05pm
There is some play, but as everything appears to be in good condition that's how I will put it back, very slight scoring on the snap ring, but nothing that makes any difference to the clearances.

Once it all gets a nice coat of 90 grade oil then I think it would be happy.

The TC is very simple and I am sure was built to tolerances that would be now less in a modern TC.

I think once the gear was in mesh with its mate the play would be less as well

I brought a brand new Cherokee Diesel ...1999 and the manual box in that had a lot of backlash and noise when coasting, perfectly ok under load, but if you were on and off the gas pedal when off road there was quite a bit of racket.

My gut feeling is the grumble could be bearings...you say coasting in neutral...is that between gear changes or are you rolling some distance with it in neutral??.

Just about to get the toasty sandwich maker out and warm the bearings up now, don't tell my wifeLOL

Adrian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adrian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Nov. 2014 at 2:31am
An update.....I opened my Novak Intermediate shaft overhaul kit and it included a new thrust washer and snap ring for the TC mainshaft....so it all came apart again and these parts were fitted.

I think it might have made a very slight difference to the end float on the helical cut gear.

The other trap for those who are fitting the Novak upgrade, make sure you get a file and dress the edge of the intermediate shaft holes in the casing, the O rings on the new shaft get eaten by the casing if you don't give it a bit of help to get in, other thing to note is the thrust washers are very slightly oversize and would not fit inside the  intermediate gear, its only about 010", so a quick polish on the linisher made them drop in nicely.

Just got to go and weld the speedo housing now, one tab broken off many years ago so it won't take much to get the Eutalloy Gun out and repair the casting.

To be continued.....

Adrian  
1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
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