Dana 30 narrow track

Keep the 1 piece rod on the 30 and run the other rod from the bell crank to the right 30 knuckle front hole.

Be sure to get a MC that is designed for a Disc/Drum system and has the appropriate portioning valve. Other wise you will be skidding your rear brakes. As to the width difference. You can do as you have suggested with spacers or you can look for wheels with more backspace to suck your front tires in the inch or so on a side. 

If using the 25 w/disc remove & replace knuckle fill plug w/allen head and grind knuckle to fit caliper. If using the 30 use the 30 tie rods and make the short 1 to the box fit to the Jeep bell crank arm. Swap in a MS kit like Mark W. says. And check to see if your wheels clear the caliper because they may/may not clear. Proportioning valve and brake lines/hoses to match the MS to your brakes.

GARGOYLEJEEPER wrote: If using the 25 w/disc remove & replace knuckle fill plug w/allen head and grind knuckle to fit caliper. If using the 30 use the 30 tie rods and make the short 1 to the box fit to the Jeep bell crank arm. Swap in a MS kit like Mark W. says. And check to see if your wheels clear the caliper because they may/may not clear. Proportioning valve and brake lines/hoses to match the MS to your brakes.   A used T90 main shaft or similar rod fits in side tie rod tube when shortening, so all you will need is a lathe or hacksaw/grinder and of course a welder. Measure/marks, scribe a straight line down the tube and cut & cut, insert align & weld.

Bolding mine.

Can we ASSuMe that (MS) actually means Master Cylinder (MC)? As in the brake Master Cylinder?

The only MS that I know of is Multiple Sclerosis, which is not good, & has almost nothing to do with CJs.

724wd wrote: What is it about the wheels that might not fit?  It's not the overall diameter, is it?  don't most CJ-5 and such run 15" wheels?

Yes, The wheel Inside Diameter (ID), where the brake drum was and where the brake calipers are, may be too small. The wheels MAY rub on the disc brake calipers.

Some times this can be avoided by using the correct 16" wheels. Some folks have ground lightly on the calipers casting to achieve the proper clearance. I am not a big fan of this. Grinding on the calipers casting can weaken them & cause problems down the road. If you are very sure that this will not be an issue, do so at your own risk.  

The 15" wheels were an option for the early CJs. The later CJ-5s did come with 15" wheels stock, & the 16" wheels were the option at that time. Note: My DJ-5C came with 14" wheels.

IHTH, Cpt Logger.

Cool! Good info here. Don't most after market wheels fit with the disc brakes? I seem to recall that the wagon wheel style wheels will fit with disc brakes, as will many of the mag rims.

Could you explain to me why having the rear axle wider than the front axle is a problem? I would think that 2" difference would not be an issue.

Thanks, Cpt Logger.

Yes, that is what I put on the guys `66 CJ5, and as you see the grind on the caliper to break the angle to the knuckle, if you do not take that edge off you will have to take off a lot more of the knuckle, and way into the seal area which is not good. Never take off more then is shown on the caliper, I do not care what people say about weakening the caliper it is not a problem and I have never seen or heard of a failure. Also notice that they just ground the fill plug to nothing, I get a Allen and a pipe die and cut the plug till it goes in deeper and grind the excess off the inside so it does not hit the axle. That axle must have newer Spicer sealed u-joints since lube fill will be a dismantle, instead of removing the caliper and fill. 1 thing they do not tell you is the Chevy hoses mount with bolt threads to the brake line mount and Jeeps used a clip, so you will need to source a 2 nuts for the end of the hoses. the good thing is Chevy parts are a lot easer to find & less $.

Edited by GARGOYLEJEEPER - 02 Feb. 2015 at 8:02pm

good info,