master cylinder replacement

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   I am thinking of replacing my single master cylinder with a dual chamber cylinder.  I have looked at the one from R&P and the one from Herm the overdrive guy.  Which one is easier to install and which one works the best.  I have standard brakes on my CJ, but Scout axles on my Wagon with dicsc in the front.  My Wagon is really hard to stop.

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geasson Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 04 May 2012 Location: MS Status: Offline Points: 79	Post Options Post Reply Quote geasson Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: master cylinder replacement Posted: 01 Feb. 2015 at 1:55am
	I am thinking of replacing my single master cylinder with a dual chamber cylinder. I have looked at the one from R&P and the one from Herm the overdrive guy. Which one is easier to install and which one works the best. I have standard brakes on my CJ, but Scout axles on my Wagon with dicsc in the front. My Wagon is really hard to stop.

kansascat Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 23 Aug. 2012 Location: s. central ks Status: Offline Points: 372	Post Options Post Reply Quote kansascat Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Feb. 2015 at 2:39am
	I really like the wilwood setup from r and p with the remotes on the firewall. Only took me a few hours one evening to install other than i had to go to the local parts house and get a T and some short lines to tie in the brake lines and install the light pressure switch. Sure nice not having to go under the floor to check or add fluid and it stops better now. You order for with or without disc brakes. If you have drums now, but think you might upgrade to discs later, order the one for discs now as they just add in a seperate package with the residual valve that screws into the from brakes port so you will have it for later when ya convert over and not have to buy it later on.
	So many projects and so little time.

Mark W. Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7984	Post Options Post Reply Quote Mark W. Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 Feb. 2015 at 6:05am
	The one that uses the MC with the remote reservoirs is easier to maintain. I am currently in the process of building my own. But mine moves the MC farther away from the Clutch/Brake Pedal shaft to give a better pushrod geometry then the store bough brackets. The draw back is mine won't work with a Ross Steering box in place. So if you have original steering on your Jeeps you need one of the two you mention. And near as I can tell you could need to shorten your pushrod unless the kits come with a suitable pushrod. Make sure you get one for the type of brakes you have (Drum/Drum or Disc/Drum Or Disc/Disc) as they will have different residual pressure valves and different sized reservoir and pistons to work with the different needs of the brakes at the wheel. You will also possibly need a proportioning valve to make sure your not skidding your rear wheels when stopping. (the front brakes on a vehicle does approx 60% of the braking)
	Chug A Lug 1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962