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Radiator leaking

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    Posted: 03 Mar. 2015 at 4:27am
I just noticed my radiator started leaking at the upper radiator hose metal pipe fitting thingy. right now its more of a seep and is likely trying to break free from the radiator. im going to be getting this fixed before it leaves me stranded and possible overheat. it seems to be the original almost 70 year old radiator so its probably copper right?
 
does this sound like a job I should tackle myself? although its probably an easy fix I think I will take it to a shop. but also since its pretty easy to access in the vehicle should I tow the jeep down to the shop with the coolant drained or should I just remove the radiator and take just that to them?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WorkInProgress Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2015 at 4:34am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WorkInProgress Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2015 at 4:37am
When I got the jeep it didn't have the top radiator support bar and it had a long straight hard upper radiator hose. so those were probably putting extra stress on the radiator. but then again when I got the jeep it probably hadn't ran since the 70's
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2015 at 8:20am
Its more then likely it will save you money to walk in with the Radiator in hand. It would also be a great opportunity to have them check it out completely and give it a serious cleaning. Once out of the Jeep you might as well put it as right as possible.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomahawk715 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2015 at 3:24pm
Its a pretty easy fix. I cant believe its leaking all the way around. Prob from one spot.

You have to have the fluid level lower than the neck. Clean all the paint off. Clean it very well. Then get out your torch and plumbing solder and re braze around where the two meet.

Ive had to repair around the neck and actual cracks in the tank itself.

If your taking it to a radiator shop they will probably want it out--Id call first
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TERRY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2015 at 3:34pm
I agree, clean it up, apply flux and re-solder the joint yourself.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WorkInProgress Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2015 at 4:13pm
Can someone Post a picture of the Flux and solder I need and what ratio or content or whatever please?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomahawk715 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2015 at 5:13pm
Get the thick tin-lead solder 50/50. Dont use lead free or electrical stuff. Dont use flux core stuff-Ive never had any success with it.

Use a good plumbing flux.

Prep is everything--make sure its good and shiney to start. Better to use lower grit stuff and work down things than sand off material.

Two things--one which dont apply to your fix here. Id not attempt to fix a corroded leak in the tank section of the rad. Those seem to start inside and work out-so you just end up with a leak again. Those repairs need the thing cleaned out well inside and out. Yours is a seam so should be easy repair. Stress cracks in the tank are another "clean fix"

2nd--If your going to use an electric iron to do the repair--A small home owner one for electrical aint gonna cut it. You need need a hotter one.

I use a small propane torch. Just go slow with the heat. Keep testing the solder against it--it should flow in just like doing the pipes in your house. If you have never done pipes you may want to get a couple fittings and pipe and mess around till you get the hang of it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomahawk715 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2015 at 5:21pm
Those straight hoses are hell on those joints. One area where it pays to buy the right hose.

Learned a neat trick years ago for finding hoses after an engine swap. Swapping motors into vehicles they never came in.
I have a bunch of old used/garbage/junk hoses Ive taken off vehicles. All different kinds of bends etc. Well you take those and cut them up as you need and kind of "puzzle piece" them together to make the hose you need. Duct tape all the pieces together so they are a solid hose. Then take your creation to a good parts house (not the local chain idiot place) and tell them you need a hose like the one you have made. Its amazing how close you can usually get--you may have to remove an end or a bend but Ive never not had one that looks "stock" after doing it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p3ferris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Mar. 2015 at 7:46pm
The flux is also soldering paste.  50/50 is best yes. lay it flat wire brush it clean...I use one on a drill first then take my knife into the hard to get crack.  Apply flux/soldering paste generiously.  Heat up with a torch just long enough to melt the solder when touching it on the metal.  It will flow around the connection remove flame if you are getting it too hot.   NOT beet red just hot.  When it circles you are done  Test it before painting, you can do that in the veh.  BRIGHT RED........just kidding ,Black Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WorkInProgress Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2015 at 5:12am
I pulled the radiator today and got started on the repair myself as suggested. I went to oreillys to purchase some solder for the radiator and all they had was Firepower 60/40 which google searching claimed that ratio was for general purpose soldering including radiators and was NOT FOR ELECTRICAL.  after using I searched more and believe it was said online that it was acid flux but ive already used it.
 
I first used a cordless drill with a wire wheel attachment and then wet dry sandpaper. then I used mineral spirits to attempt to remove oils and grime.
 
then I smeared generous amounts of flux all around the area and using my small soldering torch I began soldering but I don't believe it was powerful enough and wasn't getting it hot enough.
 
even though I got it hot enough to stick well to the radiator and made a good bead around the neck it didn't really flow which I believe means it wasn't getting hot enough to actually liquefy and puddle out. so tomorrow I will be going to purchase a small blue propane bottle torch like used for plumbing to attempt to puddle out the solder smoothly.
 
 
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WorkInProgress Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2015 at 5:19am
currently it doesn't look pretty but it seems like it would seal and hold tomorrow I will be getting a hotter torch to reattempt it.
 
but also when I was working on the repairs I also noticed the filler neck that the cap screws to has a vertical crack that I believe wont affect sealing of the cap so im not sure if I should attempt to fix or just leave it be.  I could probably solder it shut but the proper way would be to have a radiator shop install a brand new neck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2015 at 6:02am
   You definitely need more heat, so you get a bigger torch. Then, about the time you think you're making good progress, the hose neck falls clear off. As you are trying to get it stuck back on, you notice that the heat has migrated to the corner of the tank where the side strap is soldered on, and now the strap is loose. While you're trying to get it to stay in place, you notice that the solder in the joint between the tank and header has become liquefied. Soon, you will have a radiator KIT. Then you can take it to the radiator shop and let them put it back together for you. Notice the sign on the radiator shop wall that says, "Flat Rate: $40/Hr. If you watch, $50/Hr. If you help, $60/hr. If you already tried to fix it yourself, $75/Hr."    BW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WorkInProgress Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2015 at 7:26am
Though it doesn't look great the solder as is looks like it probably fixed the leak and looks like it will stay. Are you suggesting I leave it ugly as is and put it back in?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Anderson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2015 at 12:51pm
If you leave it ugly, some day you may be called bubba.  LOL. Since you posted pics, I assume you would like critique/suggestions.   Looked like your prep was good.  Appears to have about 4x the needed solder.  Solder should fill the void in a crack or between two mated surfaces not look like a weld.  I agree increase the heat and try again.  When the area is hot enough the solder will melt and flow like water over the area that needed solder.  Solder fills the void and creates a seal.  Once that happens then trying to build up solder (welding) is counter productive.  I applaud your effort.  Disclaimer:  I've soldered a lot of pipe over the years but am not a plumber.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67charger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2015 at 1:03pm
You might be able to get a putty knife or something flat that is metal and heat that solder up and smear it around and smooth it out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zuma58 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2015 at 8:09pm
You can also get a bottle of MAPP gas, it burns a bit hotter than propane gas, works great for copper pipe soldering
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WorkInProgress Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar. 2015 at 8:16pm
I just dropped it off at the radiator shop for the professional to do it. He said I didn't have it clean enough because to do it right pipe and bracket should be removed completely to clean and reinstall. They wanted $45 for those 2 things and I asked them to replace the messed up filler neck also. Totalling a quote of $90 said should be done by friday. Which is good because supposed to almost reach 70 degrees this weekend.
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