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Propshaft universal joint removal |
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JeepSaffer 
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Joined: 26 Sep. 2014 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 1181 |
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 Topic: Propshaft universal joint removalPosted: 03 Aug. 2015 at 8:18am |
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Hi guys,
Are there any tips or tricks to removing the universal joint from the propshaft yoke? Spicer type with u-bolts on two ends, clips on two ends. Willy's service manual makes reference to a special tool which I don't have, but it also says that you can knock them out with a drift, each side at a time. Mine seem stuck fast! I have tried hitting on the ends as much as I dare with a hammer on to a short length of copper tube. The copper tube ends have deformed but the joint won't budge! I have also tried pressing them out with a G-clamp, which would be working in a very similar manner to the special tool, but no luck there either. The universal joints do not look in terrible shape, just dirty and greasy, and it would make it a lot easier to clean them up and paint the propshaft and yoke if I could get them out! I just don't want to force them and end up damaging them. And yes, I have removed the clips and given the universal ends an overnight soak in ATF! Any tips or tricks would be appreciated. I can post photos if it would help. Mike
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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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PhillipM
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Joined: 28 May 2012 Location: Jackson, MS Status: Offline Points: 560 |
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Posted: 03 Aug. 2015 at 9:14am |
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A hydraulic press or a large bench vise is the preferred method. A machine shop can remove them if you have no other option.
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"90% of all carburetor problems are electrical"
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Adrian
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Joined: 01 Oct. 2011 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 1517 |
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Posted: 03 Aug. 2015 at 9:16am |
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Mike
The U bolt end is easy, just pop them off, don't loose any of the needle roller. For the clipped end first remove the clips, a pair of long nose pliers will compress the clip enough for it to come out, once they are both out you can use a socket that slightly smaller than the trunion cap and press it into another socket on the opposite side thats bigger than the trunion cap....ie: press it all the way through until the "cross" just bottoms out...remove grease nipple first!. A nice big heavy vice makes a good press..... Once you have pushed one cap out, then push it all back the other way to remove the second cap. Can you make sense of this dribble  ?Adrian
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1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96 |
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JeepSaffer
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Joined: 26 Sep. 2014 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 1181 |
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Posted: 03 Aug. 2015 at 9:50am |
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Thanks Adrian, yes I understand completely. The large and small sockets is a good idea, and I have a large vice that will work as a press. Thanks for your suggestions!
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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Oilleaker1
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Joined: 06 Sep. 2011 Location: Black Hills, SD Status: Offline Points: 4411 |
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Posted: 03 Aug. 2015 at 12:38pm |
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I use the vise method. Things to be careful of are: the grease zirc hole is expanded in that area and if you push it too far, you will damage the machined hole the u joint cap slides in. Remember to face the zirc holes toward the center of the shaft or inwards. Allign them so they all face the same way with the slider zirc. Much easier to grease them . Pay close attention when fitting them back to start the caps square. It's very easy to knock the needles down inside the cap and ruin things. I carefully start one cap in a ways, fit the cross of the u joint in it and check that the needles are in place by seeing if it seats in the cap. Then start the other side, and again carefully check that the cap seats in it. Slowly work the caps in until you can feel that the cross is started in both caps. If you can seat it both ways, you are good to go to squeeze them all the way. Install a spring over one cap, then push the other cap against it. While still squeezed , take a flat punch and tap the shaft ear outwards. This will spring the ear out far enough to get the other spring in over that cap. You may have to push it back just a little the other way to center up things. Make sure the ear groove for the spring is clean of rust and dirt. You should be able to move the joint by hand when done. It will free up after you run it some. John
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Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!
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lowenuf
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Posted: 03 Aug. 2015 at 12:45pm |
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A write up I did a few years back....... http://48cj2a.com/ptoshaft.htm edit: sorry, i just realized you are talking about a driveshaft, not the pto shaft... Edited by lowenuf - 03 Aug. 2015 at 7:04pm |
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45 #10012
45 #10033 ACM #47 45 #10163 ACM #188 57 CJ5 Dauntless V6, T-18 4-speed, D-44 rear/D-30 front, D-20 twin stick |
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pjensen641
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Posted: 03 Aug. 2015 at 4:19pm |
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I am familiar with the vise method. However, one of mine was stuck so bad that I needed to bring it to work and use a large press. Sounded like a gun when it let loose. Might need more force....
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BrianJ
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Joined: 06 Oct. 2014 Location: Hagerstown, MD Status: Offline Points: 564 |
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Posted: 03 Aug. 2015 at 4:58pm |
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Heat might help too. Tapping with a hammer too (think like an impact wrench). I used the sockets/vise method but if I recall one was harder than the others.
I replaced them with Spicer 5153X when I had them out. Take the zirk out before you press/beat them out. If you do heat, just don't overdo it. Unfortunantly the X part is made in China, but the rest is USA. They'll come pre-lubed but this is only enough for the manufacturing/shipping process. You have to grease them after install. It may be easier to grease them before they're fully installed on the Jeep.
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Brian Jenkins
1946 CJ2A - SN: 12275 |
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BrianJ
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Joined: 06 Oct. 2014 Location: Hagerstown, MD Status: Offline Points: 564 |
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Posted: 03 Aug. 2015 at 4:59pm |
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Also, Rock Auto had the best price ($10.xx/each). There is a discount code 5% OFF in the 'Off Topic' Forum.
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Brian Jenkins
1946 CJ2A - SN: 12275 |
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Mike S
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Joined: 20 May 2006 Location: West Coast Status: Offline Points: 2318 |
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Posted: 03 Aug. 2015 at 7:12pm |
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This is the way I did it and it worked fine.
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'47 CJ2A -- #114542
Warn FF D41 rear Lock-Right locker 11" drum brakes Dual master cylinder T90C Transmission 16 X 6 Jeep truck wheels Cooper STT Pro tires |
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JeepSaffer
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Joined: 26 Sep. 2014 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 1181 |
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Posted: 03 Aug. 2015 at 8:39pm |
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Thank you guys for the many hints and tips. I got home and tried Adrians "vice and two sockets" method and they slid right out. Perfect! That's the benefit of good advice!
I also carefully bent back the tabs on the yoke sleeve dust cap and slid it off. The original split cork washer was still there, but in rough shape and very brittle. I'll have to find or make a replacement. Amazing to think that some parts of the Jeep have not been touched in nearly 70 years! Thanks again for your help. Mike |
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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Joe Friday
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Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 26 Dec. 2010 Location: Jeep Central Status: Offline Points: 3654 |
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Posted: 03 Aug. 2015 at 8:42pm |
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Just a thought.
Does your local parts store loan out a "ball Joint" press? The "C" clamp in it is the exact size necessary to push the bearing caps in, and the clamp has an open recess for the cap to pass through. I usually clamp the "C" clamp in a vise so I have an extra hand to tap the side of the yoke to free up the friction.
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plowpusher
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Joined: 20 Oct. 2008 Location: lino lakes mn Status: Offline Points: 581 |
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Posted: 06 Aug. 2015 at 2:20am |
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One thing I've found helpful on reassembly is to just lightly hone the holes in the yokes with a break cylinder hone just to clean them up a make them smooth.
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when i grow up i wanna be a kid
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Adrian wrote: