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Gremlins!! |
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tfrazer 
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Joined: 31 Oct. 2011 Location: Montana Status: Offline Points: 335 |
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 Topic: Gremlins!!Posted: 04 Aug. 2015 at 12:14am |
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Here is my plight...
The other day I headed out to the hills and 100 yds from the driveway it sputterd like it was out of gas and died. I added gas cranked it over, it fired, and died. I kept cranking to recharge the line... tried choke, no choke, full throttle, half throttle. everything... sprayed ether in the carb... fired right up then died. So I am thinking.. Fuel Pump.... i just happened to a newly rebuilt one (thanks Scout Pilot) so i pushed it back to the garage and swapped it out. I then hit the started.. fired right up... and off we went Problem solved right? Drove it around the next day... (Hot around 96 drove around 10 or 15 miles) did great driving both fast and slow life is good. Today, I took it out fired right up and about 2/3rds of a mile... it sputtered.... i hit the clutch coasted into the place i was going with it idling great. Parked it came back outside after 5 mins, started it up, no problems. pulled out on the road... and every time i hit the gas peddle it would die. it would idle just fine... start just fine... it did this for 3 or 4 mins then died and would not start. walked home got a buddy to tow me home. after towing me for 1/4 mile i decided i might pop the clutch and see if it would start. (i had tried the starter again just before the tow to no avail) it started right up and sounded great! turned it off, started it again... no issues... parked it, went back to work for a few hours... started it up.. took it out for a drive up to hwy speeds, no hiccups. I am at a total loss here. from what I can tell there is no debris in the fuel pump or filter. Anyone have any ideas or things i can do to rule things out? Thanks,
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Ted
46 CJ2a |
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TERRY
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Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3400 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2015 at 12:18am |
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Sounds like the first fuel pump was bad, take it apart and check for a torn diaphragm.
Then it seems you may have had a vapor lock on the hot day. |
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BOULDER 48 2A
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tfrazer
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Joined: 31 Oct. 2011 Location: Montana Status: Offline Points: 335 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2015 at 12:32am |
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i have driven it on hotter days for sure... i thought about vapor lock.. is the only way to fix vapor lock letting it sit? and the second time.. the engine wasnt even to 160 degrees yet. Actually come to think of it... neither time the engine was still warming up.
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Ted
46 CJ2a |
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scoutpilot
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Joined: 30 Dec. 2008 Location: Asheboro, NC Status: Offline Points: 4373 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2015 at 1:21am |
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Condenser...
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52 M38
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Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2015 at 1:50am |
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I agree, this is electrical gremlins. I have read a couple of other posts over the last few years that have said similar things.
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tfrazer
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Joined: 31 Oct. 2011 Location: Montana Status: Offline Points: 335 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2015 at 1:59am |
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i guess i should also say that i have one of the electronic ignition distributers from kaiser willys.... and you think its electical even though it would fire with ether?
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Ted
46 CJ2a |
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Bruce W
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Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9648 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2015 at 2:43am |
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Ether is easier to ignite than gasoline or diesel fuel -- that's why it is used as a starting aid. BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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tfrazer
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Joined: 31 Oct. 2011 Location: Montana Status: Offline Points: 335 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2015 at 5:35am |
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do folks think i should switch back over to points? are they more reliable?
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Ted
46 CJ2a |
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scoutpilot
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Joined: 30 Dec. 2008 Location: Asheboro, NC Status: Offline Points: 4373 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2015 at 9:40am |
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Heat is the enemy of any automotive electrical circuit. Your EIM has specific voltage needs that can be affected by that heat. As OAT climbs, the temperature of the wiring goes up and the resistance in that wire starts to increase. The wiring and circuits get hot and break down. If any ground in that circuit is bad, it only aggravates the situation.
The EIMs are finicky about their voltage. They want it in the correct amount, and correct temperature, all of the time. While todays condensers and points leave much to be desired, as spares they take up less room in the tool box and aren't so fussy in their needs. Edited by scoutpilot - 04 Aug. 2015 at 9:45am |
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BrianJ
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Joined: 06 Oct. 2014 Location: Hagerstown, MD Status: Offline Points: 564 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2015 at 10:12am |
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If it's a keyed coil - is the wire running from the key to the coil in decent shape? Are the connectors tight? Check at the ballast resistor too. Have you checked your coil? Your plug wires (should be copper core, and VERY low resistances when checked). Are your plugs correct and gapped at .030? Are the terminals clean? Did you use di-electric grease on the connections? Is your timing right? Electrical can be hard to trouble-shoot, but start doing it at one end (the cheap one) and keep going until you either find the problem or verify everything is okay. I'd make sure it's the dizzy before you go through the hassle/expense of changing it out and find out you still have the problem. Also on the sputtering - is your float set correctly in your carb? Mine wasn't originally, and would cause this at times. This wouldn't keep it from starting, but it something to consider. |
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Brian Jenkins
1946 CJ2A - SN: 12275 |
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Oilleaker1
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Joined: 06 Sep. 2011 Location: Black Hills, SD Status: Offline Points: 4411 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2015 at 12:35pm |
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Well, I'd go for a drive and make it die. Disconnect the fuel line at the carb and spin it over with the starter and see if the fuel pump is delivering gas there. Take a bottle to catch the gas in. If it is, possible sticking float/needle and seat. If that's not it, then check for spark at the plugs. Coil could be dropping out after it heats up. Try another coil. If you don't have gas, I doubt it's a fuel pump since you swapped already. Intermittant blockage at the fuel pickup in the tank. Hole in the pickup line in the tank and if full good, low bad. Gas cap venting. Rubber fuel line bad and closing off? You need to eliminate the possibles one at a time systematically. Try and find the bugger before you go replacing everything at once. You have no fuel, or no spark. You just have to find it. Stupid stuff like a bad key switch or loose wire is all it takes. My story: I had a short. Had to use a test light as a indicator to find it. Ended up the breaker on the light switch rear had only one of it's two mount screws in it. The breaker vibrated down and contacted the light switch case. That was it!!!!!!!!!!! I've seen where a metal fuel line was cut with a tubing cutter and not filed off so it wasn't sharp. It shaved off a small bit of rubber which went on downline and fowled the needle and seat in the carb. No bull! So, just work your way through the two needed supply systems of Fuel and ignition. John
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Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!
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67charger
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Joined: 27 Sep. 2011 Location: Kentucky Status: Offline Points: 1272 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2015 at 1:08pm |
Now that's some good info on keeping it the KISS method.
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tfrazer
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Joined: 31 Oct. 2011 Location: Montana Status: Offline Points: 335 |
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Posted: 04 Aug. 2015 at 2:02pm |
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Thanks for the tips.. what is the best way to test for spark at the plugs? the coil is fairly new, maybe a year or two old from NAPA the wire is 12 ga and is fairly new too. Is there an easy way to test the coil? Also Scout Pilot Im bad with acronyms what is a EMI? I appreciate all the advice. concerning the carb. i have no idea the last time it was adjusted. I have not touched it since i have owned it.. they kinda scare me and it has always started right up so i have let sleeping dogs lie. is there a good guide for adjusting the carb?
thanks again |
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Ted
46 CJ2a |
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RSR_MK
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Posted: 05 Aug. 2015 at 4:21pm |
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Ted,
You are not the only one to go through this type of issue, my son picked up a '55 CJ5 that we had the same issues with. Started out as a fuel problem and after a new tank, lines and pump we felt we had it behind us only to have it stall again in a few trips. This time I put a coil off another jeep on for a check and it fired right up so we put a new coil on. All was good for a few trips and then it stalled again, replaced the condenser and again all was well, this time for a few weeks. Then it would not start, we were using it to jocky folks around in the hay field and after it warmed up it just would not start, cranked fine and would roll start fine but would not start with the key. I found if I let it turn over about twice and return the key to run it would fire right up. So now there is an issue with low voltage while in the start position, have not ran that to ground yet but should not be hard to correct. at least I know what I am looking for this time. I really felt he was throwing parts at it with the fuel issue, had a leaking fuel pump on a '46 so I cleaned up his old pump and put it on the '46. worked for about 6 months after cleaning but I had to replace it about 2 weeks ago, check valves just will not hold any longer. Hang in there, it can be more than one issue with these old rigs. Mike
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scoutpilot
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Joined: 30 Dec. 2008 Location: Asheboro, NC Status: Offline Points: 4373 |
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Posted: 05 Aug. 2015 at 5:25pm |
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Electronic Ignition Module.
The basic settings on the outside of the carb are: Mixture Screw (Brass) 1.5 to 2.5 turns out from a lightly seated bottom. Don't torque down on it as you'll ruin it. Idle Stop Screw (Steel) in from no touch approximately three full turns. To fine tune the entire motor check this link: http://oldjeepcarbs.freeforums.net/thread/29/time-motor-timing-light
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Oilleaker1 wrote: