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Warn OD planetary pitting

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BrianJ View Drop Down
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    Posted: 13 Feb. 2016 at 7:07pm
How usable is this?  I've sanded it lightly on the lathe to clean it up some, but some of these rust pits look pretty deep.

The bearings were completely shot, and I ordered new ones.  Any suggestions for this though?



Brian Jenkins

1946 CJ2A - SN: 12275
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Mark W. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb. 2016 at 8:06pm
That's done
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Grey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb. 2016 at 8:13pm
anyone with more experience with this than me know if a sleeve would work?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb. 2016 at 8:15pm
I agree, pretty well cooked...New bearing running on those deep pits would lead to very short bearing life and would be noisy to boot.  I recommend replacing the part.
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jdiaz48 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb. 2016 at 8:17pm
There is a process called hard chrome,I have mine fixed and come out like new
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BrianJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb. 2016 at 8:44pm
Originally posted by jdiaz48 jdiaz48 wrote:

There is a process called hard chrome,I have mine fixed and come out like new

I'm going to get a quote from a hydraulic repair place locally.  AA wants $325 for it, plus the pins are different so another $30, and another $20 for shipping <sheesh>

Do you have any more info, or remember who did yours?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb. 2016 at 9:53pm
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb. 2016 at 11:29pm
It was a very long time ago but I had mine plasma sprayed and machined.
Any idea how much you would have to remove to get it reasonably clean?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BrianJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2016 at 1:07am
Probably at most a 1/16th, but even 1/32 would be a plus. It's hardened though and I did what I did with 120 grit sandpaper. I only have a wood lathe so can't accurately machine it. I can just chuck it and run it & sand.

Thanks Mark. I'll check them out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2016 at 1:29am
Check locally for a gear cutting shop, most offer this service as well as repairing broken gear teeth.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2016 at 4:21am
Here is another idea - Google Belzona1111 and check it out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BrianJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2016 at 5:05am
Originally posted by oldracer oldracer wrote:

Here is another idea - Google Belzona1111 and check it out.

I put in a RFQ to them.  I saw Loctite had something similar, but couldn't find anyone selling it.  Hell, I considered JB Metal Weld originally
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pjensen641 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2016 at 5:24am
Not familiar with that part, do bearing rollers directly contact it?  Is there an inner race that gets installed on it?  If there is an inner race, maybe you could get by with some sort of metal filled epoxy as long as the diameter is still OK.  If bearing rollers contact the shaft directly, you should forget about any of that stuff, or a sleeve.  Only some sort of properly heat treated metal deposition re-work would be anywhere near practical.

A google search lead to this...?  No idea if they do small consumer jobs.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldracer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2016 at 4:05pm
Hi Brian, I obtained a sample of the Belzona1111 from an engine builder and it is really JB Weld on steroids. They claim the ability to resize journals on crankshafts. The problem, aside from the price which seems to be around a hundred bucks, is where to find it. I thought I had found a source that was advertising it for about $75.00 but it turned out to be from Russia - no refunds!! I'm still looking and may even break down and PAY the asking price. If it will actually repair a cracked block it will be cheap in the long run. If you decide to go for it and find a source pass it along. Good Luck
T. Nick
If it's not broke, work on it till it is!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2016 at 6:22pm
Originally posted by Joe Friday Joe Friday wrote:

It was a very long time ago but I had mine plasma sprayed and machined.


Okay, Joe Friday has the fix for this, IMHO the only fix short of replacement.......... Belzona is the ultimate snake oil of the repair world, there are places that it's use is outstanding, and places like a Warn overdrive bearing surface where it should not be used. This is a hi pressure, hi speed area and needs a surface that will withstand this, not flake off and ball up destroying everything in its area. If you look on Herms Website he offers repairs to water damaged parts as well. There is no cheap lasting repair for these over drives. Spend money wisely here, or you'll be spending it twice.

Lee
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jdiaz48 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2016 at 7:21pm
My was repaired in a local machine shop,they did it as a favor,I will send the information of the shop on Tuesday
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2016 at 7:40pm
I could be wrong, but I think the bearings on the spyder  rotate at 25% the speed of the output shaft of the transmission, but 'goop' will not work . Admittedly, since the ends have thrust bearings, and the planetaries carried some of the load, I was toying with the idea of undercutting the shaft and installing oversize bearings but I did my homework and the necessary bearings do not exist.

I wasn't as concerned with the pitting as I was with the appearance of galling around the corrosion in your picture. The overdrive appears to have been run after sitting full of water for a very long time.

Get it done right or be prepared for an even more expensive repair.
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