Steering bellcrank tie rod end removal - Stuck

Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic

   Removing the steering bellcrank to clean it and do some corrosion prevention. Got kind of stuck.

On the bellcrank the 3/4" pin was sheared. The balljoint was easy to disassemble. That left me with the tie rod end where the steering bellcrank connects to the right hand tie rod.

My right hand tie rod is this style:
http://www.kaiserwillys.com/vehicle/46-49-cj-2a/steering/tie-rods-steering-knuckle/nos-passenger-side-steering-tie-rod-assembly-fits-46-66-cj-2a-3a-3b-5

Where the most inboard tie rod connects to the steering bellcrank, and the next tie rod outboard connects to the left hand tie rod. My tie rod ends have the old spring & metal protective cover.... although they're as floppy as a rabbit's ear so they're shot anyway.

In any case, I've used a couple pickle forks, a screw-type tie rod end remover, WD40, I can NOT get the bellcrank to come off of that tie rod end. I'm hesitant to pound any harder on the pickle forks, I'm afraid I'll bend or break something, and I was afraid to turn any harder on the screw-type tie rod end remover for the same reason.

The whole reason I've got the bellcrank undone is because I broke the 3/4" pin - I'm trying not to break anything else! :)

I did look at the good pics on this thread:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tie-rods_topic19122.html
And I don't see any reason that the bellcrank should not slide right off of the tie rod end.

How do I separate these pieces without breaking anything else?

-FP

Pics of my bellcrank-to-tie rod end:

And my forks and tie rod end tool:

Author	Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic
tenbbs Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 23 July 2016 Location: AZ Status: Offline Points: 7	Post Options Post Reply Quote tenbbs Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Steering bellcrank tie rod end removal - Stuck Posted: 23 July 2016 at 7:02pm
	Removing the steering bellcrank to clean it and do some corrosion prevention. Got kind of stuck. On the bellcrank the 3/4" pin was sheared. The balljoint was easy to disassemble. That left me with the tie rod end where the steering bellcrank connects to the right hand tie rod. My right hand tie rod is this style: http://www.kaiserwillys.com/vehicle/46-49-cj-2a/steering/tie-rods-steering-knuckle/nos-passenger-side-steering-tie-rod-assembly-fits-46-66-cj-2a-3a-3b-5 Where the most inboard tie rod connects to the steering bellcrank, and the next tie rod outboard connects to the left hand tie rod. My tie rod ends have the old spring & metal protective cover.... although they're as floppy as a rabbit's ear so they're shot anyway. In any case, I've used a couple pickle forks, a screw-type tie rod end remover, WD40, I can NOT get the bellcrank to come off of that tie rod end. I'm hesitant to pound any harder on the pickle forks, I'm afraid I'll bend or break something, and I was afraid to turn any harder on the screw-type tie rod end remover for the same reason. The whole reason I've got the bellcrank undone is because I broke the 3/4" pin - I'm trying not to break anything else! :) I did look at the good pics on this thread: http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tie-rods_topic19122.html And I don't see any reason that the bellcrank should not slide right off of the tie rod end. How do I separate these pieces without breaking anything else? -FP Pics of my bellcrank-to-tie rod end: And my forks and tie rod end tool:
	Willys-Overland 48 CJ-2A S/N 145476

SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3190	Post Options Post Reply Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 July 2016 at 7:32pm
	I have never failed to remove a tierod end on any equipment by using a BFH and a picklefork. I think you problem may lie with too much recoil while hitting the picklefork with the hammer. If you could back the tierod up against something solid I can't see why the thing shouldn't let go when you apply the muscle to it. A word of advise about your tierod though; put the nut back on the end of it a few threads because when it comes loose the tierod could fly into something that would get damaged. Ask me how I know.
	46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub) U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it.

Adrian Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 01 Oct. 2011 Location: New Zealand Status: Offline Points: 1517	Post Options Post Reply Quote Adrian Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 July 2016 at 9:27pm
	I always give the side of the eye a short sharp tap with a hammer, just hold another hammer on the opp side......or if you are good use two hammers at once. It sort of spits the tie rod out...I have never owned the fork thing. Adrian
	1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605 1973 Saab 96

tenbbs Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 23 July 2016 Location: AZ Status: Offline Points: 7	Post Options Post Reply Quote tenbbs Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 July 2016 at 9:43pm
	Adrian & CJ-2A, thanks both. In the end I used all techniques: I applied some Blaster PB Penetrant. I saw Adrian's method of whacking the side of the eye on some youtube videos, so I did that. And in the end, I used the pickle fork and did what CJ-2A recommended, which was to pull/push the whole assembly taught, so that there was no slack or movement when I struck the end of the pickle fork with the hammer. It took a really good whack, but it finally came off. Much appreciated, thanks to all! -FP
	Willys-Overland 48 CJ-2A S/N 145476

cpt logger Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3039	Post Options Post Reply Quote cpt logger Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 July 2016 at 8:49pm
	Good job! I am glad that you got this one done. In the future, please keep in mind that WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil. PB Blaster, OTOH, is. Use the PB Blaster first. WD is a Water Dispersal. IME, It is good for drying out wet distributors, & not much else.

GB- Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Joined: 10 Apr. 2016 Location: usa Status: Offline Points: 30	Post Options Post Reply Quote GB- Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 July 2016 at 1:44am
	Torch. Have water ready. Garage door open. I roll the torch over to the jeep every time I work on it, for the intimidation factor.

SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3190	Post Options Post Reply Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 July 2016 at 2:06am
	...one other thing besides the torch...NEVER...EVER... tell the jeep its paid for. Always let it think that it at least has to hold together until you make that last payment.
	46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub) U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it.