floor pan repairs |
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m38mike
Member Joined: 23 Apr. 2007 Location: Colorado High Country Status: Offline Points: 3798 |
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Posted: 30 Aug. 2007 at 4:54am |
Viasa,
I may take you up on your offer sooner than later. Besides, it'll give me a chance to go check out the jeeps in the salvage yard for needed parts. I'm going to try to salvage the existing "Jeep" panel. Still not sure how I'll do it. I'm looking thru a couple catalogs at different products that might work. On the floor, if I have a hole bigger than a dime, I'll weld in a patch. Looks like I have a few of those! The steel in most areas where the pinholes are seems to be stiff enough that if I use the POR-15 I think I can save most of the existing floor. My brother-in-law just used POR-15 on a trailer he's building. Well, his son used it. Now he'll have striped legs for soccer practice for a couple weeks!! I appreciate the warning to use gloves!! I'll post pics as I go thru the process. First thing is remove the rusted hat channels. Lomar's replacement parts will go on there. Then I'll weld up any patches, like the hydraulic hose holes on the transmission tunnel. Then I'll see what I can do with POR-15. BETTER LIVING THRU CHEMISTRY!! |
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M38Mike
46 CJ2A SAMCJ2A 4?-5? CJ2A/3A/M38 Jigsaw 51 M38 Green Jeanne 52 M38 Blue Mule, 51 M100 Blue Mule Tale 52 XM38EV1 Electro-Willys, 52 M100 Juice Box |
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Viasa
Member Joined: 06 Apr. 2007 Location: Southern Colorado Status: Offline Points: 178 |
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Hey Mike,
If you find yourself two hours south of where you live and with a cutting device you are welcome to cut out the tool box from my parts jeep. I could take some pix if you are interested. I would only charge you some help with some of my grafting project.
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46 CJ2A (yard decoration)
48 CJ2A 45 to 53 Jeep salad |
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Lomar15
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 01 Jan. 2006 Location: Fanny Bay, B.C. Canada Status: Offline Points: 1226 |
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2X what Lew said
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46 CJ2A #48777
42 MB Slat Grill 119898 Frame 51 M38 Body 42 MB #155950 Spen Trailer http://picasaweb.google.com/lomar15CJ2A |
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Lew Ladwig
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 01 Nov. 2005 Location: Lafayette, Co Status: Offline Points: 1492 |
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Mike,
I would cut out any flat bad spots as that is easy to do. If on a curve back it up with copper and mig the holes closed. That way the whole floor will be all solid steel and won't start to rust right away. Here are some pic's of how I did my '47.
Lew
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Lew Ladwig
President of the CFFC and IFFC http://internationalflatfenderclub.com/index.html http://www.facebook.com/#!/InternationalFlatFinderClub |
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wyowillys46
Member Joined: 05 Aug. 2005 Location: Denver Status: Offline Points: 1453 |
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When you get ready to paint over the POR-15 I would recommend you try the self etching Tie Coat primer they sell. I used the regular Tie Coat and it wasn't all that great.
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1946 #27869
Take a look at my webpage: <a href="http://wyowillys46.awardspace.com">Wyowillys46</a> |
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dav45_cj2a
Member Joined: 23 June 2007 Location: Reno / Sparks Nevada Status: Offline Points: 322 |
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Your damage is almost the same as mine. I am going to be using a product called Hot Shot Heat Gel. Then I am going to braze in the holes, sand and reshape then POR15 over the top. My floors are still very strong so I do not need to replace the floors. Need to fix a few small hat channel sections and thats it.
I agree with the gloves. Took me 2 weeks for that POR15 to wear off my hands LOL Here is a mine damage. When I started they were just tiny pin holes. I kept picking away until I got to a more thicker steel. Edited by dav45_cj2a - 29 Aug. 2007 at 2:20pm |
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hillbilly21
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 18 June 2006 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 4964 |
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AHHHHHHHH rocnroll
Why tell him about the gloves that is the fun of it...You get to take your project whenever and whereever you go untill it wears off..
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rocnroll
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Tuscumbia, AL Status: Offline Points: 13584 |
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Although I've never used it personally in this situation, I've seen very good results with Por-15 and the reinforcing cloth with the kind of rust you have. (much better than fiberglass resin)
That would get my vote too...USE GLOVES, IT DOESN"T COME OFF!! Edited by rocnroll - 28 Aug. 2007 at 10:22am |
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'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
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westforkboyd
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2006 Location: Northern Iowa Status: Offline Points: 3514 |
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Hmmm.... nice photos Mike... . The indent parallell to the hat channel should be saved. No repro tub or replacement floor panel will have that! Nice condition really. That indent was carried on from an early muffler bracket mount and is an indicator of an original manufacture.
Edited by westforkboyd - 28 Aug. 2007 at 7:19am |
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'48 CJ-2A #184135 Lefty
'49 CJ-2A #219719 Mule '39 Ford 9N '55 Oliver Super 55 Ollybelle |
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hillbilly21
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 18 June 2006 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 4964 |
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X 2 on what gnkhoffman says...........use the por-15
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gnkhoffman
Member Joined: 05 Sep. 2005 Location: Lakewood CO Status: Offline Points: 153 |
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Mike:
My floors were worse, so it was an easy decision to cutout and weld in new. My script was in better shape. I used fiberglass on the inside, and some puddy on the outside.
Tough call on the floors. On the Corvair website, guys have had real good luck with using POR-15 with fiberglass cloth. I don't know if that would give you the look you wanted on the inside floorboards, but it is supposed to be real strong.
I had similar channel rust on my front fenders, and cut out flat pieces, and tig welded them in. Kept blowing through the thin remaining portions, so again cut out and welded. Very tedious.
Gary Hoffman
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gnkhoffman
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Lomar15
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 01 Jan. 2006 Location: Fanny Bay, B.C. Canada Status: Offline Points: 1226 |
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I wouldn't replace the whole floor.I'd cut out the bad metal and replace. If the metal is thick enough and still has strenght, fill in the pits and keep it Patch the holes Or one big patch. The tool box you could cut the bottom lip off and make a new section. Then butt weld it in. Cut around the Jeep script at the bottom to save it.
Too bad, the floor looks great from the underside. Edited by Lomar15 - 28 Aug. 2007 at 12:48am |
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46 CJ2A #48777
42 MB Slat Grill 119898 Frame 51 M38 Body 42 MB #155950 Spen Trailer http://picasaweb.google.com/lomar15CJ2A |
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m38mike
Member Joined: 23 Apr. 2007 Location: Colorado High Country Status: Offline Points: 3798 |
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Here are three photos of the passenger floor of the 2A i'm trying to
restore. I'm trying to decide if I should cut out the whole floor
panel and replace it with a new one, or should I just fill in the holes
with JB Weld and only weld in patches where the sheetmetal is totally
gone??? I'd kinda like to keep the bullet holes in the tool box
floor. I think they add character!
The Jeep script is going to take some work to save, but I've got to save it. What do you think about welding a backing plate behind this, then filling in the holes with something to smooth out the face?? |
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M38Mike
46 CJ2A SAMCJ2A 4?-5? CJ2A/3A/M38 Jigsaw 51 M38 Green Jeanne 52 M38 Blue Mule, 51 M100 Blue Mule Tale 52 XM38EV1 Electro-Willys, 52 M100 Juice Box |
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