Frame Splicing |
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Duck001
Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2014 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 30 |
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Posted: 28 Mar. 2017 at 5:08pm |
Hi folks, question for folks who have worked on or done a bunch of welding on a CJ2A frame. Would you consider a frame splice on a frame. The back end of mine on both sides at the forward leaf spring pivot eye mounts is sho. t I found another frame that could be a good donor.
Basically I would be splicing somewhere just in front of the tramsmission cross member to fix all of the issues. My front is solid. My wuestion is: Would you recommend this or not? If yes, any thoughts on the proper way to do this, fish plates, reinforcing the splice etc. Should I look for another good frame of spring for a repro frame and avoid rust issues altogether? Your learned advice is appreciated. |
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NCtoy
Member Joined: 28 Aug. 2005 Location: NC Status: Offline Points: 507 |
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Frames are generally cheap and easy to find.
But if you can't find a good one, I wouldn't feel too bad about splicing them together. Really not much different than putting on new front frame horns, which is pretty common. I'm not an expert but I would plan on some reinforcing plates at the joints. Something that would spread the load out and not have any sharp corners. |
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2t2-crash
Member Joined: 26 Apr. 2016 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 224 |
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I've never done it before but I would suggest staggering the cut portions if possible. Additionally I would have a professional welder or a very experienced one do the welding.
Both of my front forks need to be replaced, while I can weld a bit my Dad will be doing the frame welding because he is a retired Boilermaker/pipefitter that spent his career welding for Chevron. He said he'd do it for me but said he would only do it with a stick welding machine since my flux core MIG isn't going to make a quality weld for a frame. Definitely reinforce the welded sections. |
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Duck001
Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2014 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 30 |
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Thanks for the comments on the frame welding. I found quite a few different videos and posts on other sites about this. Most deal with heavier material than what we see in a CJ frame and they don't have to deal with the reinforcing strip on the top and bottom of the frame. I was concerned about getting good welds in there and dealing with rust that might be lurking between the reinforcing strip and the C-channel. I know that frame section are available for the fron 48" but there is not much detail about how to install it, welds etc. For the price of those sections I might as well look for a better frame. Was my main reason to splice 2 frames to make one good one. Lots to think sbout before making a decision either way.
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otto
Member Joined: 26 Feb. 2012 Location: Orygun Status: Online Points: 2265 |
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I used to work at a truck dealership where we would lengthen/shorten big trucks regularly. I also shortened up a Ford 4x4 PU by sectioning 16" or so out of the frame and welded it back together. A few times it should've broken, but never did.
There are ways to do this properly if you decide to- where the frame is cut, we would generally make a Z cut (so the section has more weld length or surface area), kinda like a puzzle piece. Another thing to consider is not making the splice area too strong where it will create a weak spot right next to it. Finding another frame is usually easier and one less thing to have in the back of your mind, worrying about the frame breaking.
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47 CJ2A w/fuel injected boat engine
48 CJ2A 64 Ford Econoline Travelwagon If you can't get there in a Jeep, get a motorcycle! |
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Duck001
Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2014 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 30 |
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Good points to consider. I'd be a bit or a worrier so maybe another or new repro frame would be best. Thanks for you honest opinion!
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wadoyado
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 29 Sep. 2016 Location: Mi. Status: Offline Points: 728 |
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These are pic's of my crossmember repair I made using a tig welder, (oxy-acet. could give similar results). The crossmember and the frame your talking about are the same thickness, 12ga (.109) I know this is a patch but if I were to splice two together it would be the same. Cut the frame square, zig zag not necessary. It must be a "full fusion" weld no unfused edges, low or undercut areas on both sides a slightly higher weld(reinforcement) is best. The pics shows both sides of the weld as it should look to be stronger than the metal itself. The weld bead would look the same if it was a splice. If the metal is thinned because of rust I might consider a diamond shaped patch. That's how I plan on fixing the 47 1/2 frame showing. Hoped this helped Joe wadoyado
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"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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Duck001
Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2014 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 30 |
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maybe replace the strip. Would allow the c-channel metal to be cleaned up as well.
Thanks! Edited by Duck001 - 30 Mar. 2017 at 2:15am |
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Duck001
Member Joined: 23 Sep. 2014 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 30 |
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Appreciate your photos and comments Joe. How would you deal with the reinforcing strip in the top and bottom of the frame? I see you have some rust forcing the strip off the c-channel frame. Would you weld both the inner c-channel and the strip?
That strip is only spot welded on so will likely have even a small gap. Thanks! |
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wadoyado
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 29 Sep. 2016 Location: Mi. Status: Offline Points: 728 |
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Duck001, Thought I'd include a pic of my late 48 2a frame single piece channel 10ga.(.139) no reinforcement strap to deal with plus thicker. But yeah I'll pull up the strap, make the splice weld this is most important, then re-attach the strap welding both sides continuous for at least 1 1/2" either side of the splice weld. As others have said this is no weld to gob and grind Wadoyado
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"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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