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Fuel Pump and Rebuild Kit |
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sean
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Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: North Idaho Status: Offline Points: 6976 |
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Topic: Fuel Pump and Rebuild KitPosted: 18 Jan. 2010 at 12:44pm |
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Howard
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Posted: 18 Jan. 2010 at 4:35pm |
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Very Cool Sean,
According to the TM9-1828A Manual, failure to hold the diaphragm, as instructed, while securing the cover screws will cause the pump to deliver too much pressure. There has been some debate about this instruction. Undoubtedly what they are referring to in your instructions included with the kit. Some of these pumps have the oil seal and spring as shown in the drawing, they were on the diaphragm shaft.
Here is a drawing from the same manual. Hope it is of some value as well. Not a good reproduction of the drawing. Sean, any help?
Edit...I removed the drawing I posted...Larry's got it below!
Thanks Larry!
Edited by Howard - 18 Jan. 2010 at 8:16pm |
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Howard F Jewett
1946 CJ2A #23353 43 GPW 106505 USA #20366014 43 Bantam Trailer T3 #14844 |
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rocketeer
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Posted: 18 Jan. 2010 at 5:54pm |
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Sean here's the diagram and instructions from TM9-1828A. If not appropriate to this thread let me know and I'll remove the post. Take note that when talking about the oil seals it says "If used".
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sean
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Posted: 19 Jan. 2010 at 10:23am |
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Thanks guys. The descriptions in the TM are more detailed, but the illustration depicts oil seal parts not used in CJ-2A, could be confusing. That is a "typical" AF pump, not specific for MB or CJ-2A. The 2A Service Manuals and Parts Lists have the right illustrations. The first one I posted above (same as TM-10-1513), and this one (same as SNL G-503, MB Parts List):: As for the TM diaphragm instructions, at best confusing, at worst wrong (it might be appropriate for some other vehicle pump, but not CJ-2A). The diaphragm must be in fully flexed position before tightening the cover screws. That occurs when the rocker arm is released, allowing the spring to force the diaphragm upward, limited only by the 6 cover screws. If it's clamped w/out flex, it can't create enough pressure or flow. The written instructions in the kit: "... move the rocker arm until diaphragm is level with the flange surface. Place cover in position with screws drawn down ONLY FINGER TIGHT. Release the rocker arm, which will flex the diaphragm to the correct amount, then tighten cover screws ..." Sean |
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Howard
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Posted: 19 Jan. 2010 at 11:01am |
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This diaphragm installation has generated some debate in the past among collectors. Sounds like some other erorrs in the TMs...or at least some misunderstandings in interpretations. The kit instructions make sense but a pressure test would verify the actual output from the pump. FWIW, There is also some referance to testing the output pressure, valves and diaphragm function after assembly.
The TM says,
"...attaching pressure gage to pump outlet. Operate priming lever or rocker arm until gage shows 3 psi. Discontinue building up pressure and observe time required for gage pointer to drop from 3 to 2 psi. A time lapse of 5 seconds or more indicates a satisfactory pump."
Would this be a proper test? It sounds odd to me. At best it would be testing the check valves. No referance to volume. I have never performed this test to know what my fuel pumps have put out after rebuild. But my pumps have worked just fine...
Edited by Howard - 19 Jan. 2010 at 11:04am |
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Howard F Jewett
1946 CJ2A #23353 43 GPW 106505 USA #20366014 43 Bantam Trailer T3 #14844 |
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sean
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Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: North Idaho Status: Offline Points: 6976 |
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Posted: 19 Jan. 2010 at 12:03pm |
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Howard:
ie. if it can't reach 3 PSI, there's a problem, and if it leaks down too quickly, there's a different problem. Keep pumping and it should max out at 3.5 - 4.5 PSI ("new" pump spec.)
Measure diaphragm spring force on a scale when compressed to @ .8" high (installed height). Should be around 13 lbs or slightly more. The diaphragm is @ 2.25" diameter (@ 3.8 sq-inches), 13 lbs gives you @ 3.4 PSI. Sean
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