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Hub Location conformation. |
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kene 
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Joined: 06 Aug. 2011 Location: Venice, CA Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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 Topic: Hub Location conformation.Posted: 08 Jan. 2012 at 1:45pm |
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I took a lot of pictures during my tear down but with everything being so rusty and dirty it sure looks different all cleaned up. Putting the hub back on the axle I want to make sure I’m doing it correctly. There is a space between the seal and axle that I’m second guessing. On my before picture I do not see the step but it is really dirty. I’m thinking maybe the space is for the trailers with brakes? Can someone conform for me if this is correct or do I have something assembled wrong? Thank you Ken |
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Wes K
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Joined: 28 Aug. 2006 Location: Wisconsin Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Posted: 08 Jan. 2012 at 11:49pm |
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Here's the Military WWII T3 Bantam axle with brakes
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ3B, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D & 47Bantam T3-C |
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kene
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Joined: 06 Aug. 2011 Location: Venice, CA Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Posted: 09 Jan. 2012 at 12:28am |
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Thanks for the pic. I have the manual but just not seeing the step.
Ken |
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Wes K
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Joined: 28 Aug. 2006 Location: Wisconsin Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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Posted: 09 Jan. 2012 at 1:05am |
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Here's a bit more detail:
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Wes K
45 MB, 51 M38, 60 CJ3B, 60 CJ5, 76 DJ5D & 47Bantam T3-C |
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kene
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Joined: 06 Aug. 2011 Location: Venice, CA Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Posted: 09 Jan. 2012 at 10:06am |
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Wes, Thank you very much for the clarification on the picture. It’s clear to me now. Regards Ken
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42 GPW
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Joined: 13 Dec. 2011 Location: Plainfield IL. Status: Offline Points: 32 |
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Posted: 11 Jan. 2012 at 9:59am |
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Ken Hopefully this will help as well. clean area is where hub sat. Good Luck Mike
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42 GPW 81835 USA 20186310
1946 Bantam T3-C 10599 Early 1961 Spouse Project 1991 M101A2 MVPA Member NICMVPA Member |
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kene
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Joined: 06 Aug. 2011 Location: Venice, CA Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Posted: 11 Jan. 2012 at 3:10pm |
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Thanks for the pictures. They helped me and hopefully will help others in the furture.
I'm waiting on my other bearings and races from Ron and will get the axle together soon.
Ken
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kene
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Joined: 06 Aug. 2011 Location: Venice, CA Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Posted: 14 Jan. 2012 at 1:30pm |
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Putting the wheel bearings back into the hubs and on to the axle I need some help. The inner bearing and seal are on fine then I have the outer bearing then outer bearing washer then a wheel bearing nut then outer wheel bearing nut lock washer then the last nut. There is no standing tab to bend over the nut. After I tighten down both nuts do I just stake over the washer over the first nut I put on?
The picture of the wheel – wheel bearings that Wes posted
and the manual I have looks to me like the tab is bent over the last nut I put
on. Right at the end of the line on #8. If that's the way it goes back over the last nut, how do I bend it towards the outside? Ken |
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bkreutz
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Posted: 14 Jan. 2012 at 1:59pm |
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What I do is stick a screwdriver behind the washer and pry against the lip of the hub to bend it outwards
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kene
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Joined: 06 Aug. 2011 Location: Venice, CA Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Posted: 14 Jan. 2012 at 8:38pm |
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I tried to put a screw driver behind the washer but I can't bend the washer forward. It seems like the washer is to far in to get any kind of leverage on the hub.
I thought about bending it a little bit in my vise but then I'm not sure if it will line up with the flats on the nut once I put it back in? Any other suggestions? Ken  |
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F Bill
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Posted: 14 Jan. 2012 at 9:16pm |
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Much bigger screwdriver.....or even a pry bar.
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Jeep....a four letter word for..........FUN! (Keep telling yourself this while you are trying to get that steering wheel off or those brakes adjusted.....)
(Insert long list of random jeeps here..) |
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kene
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Joined: 06 Aug. 2011 Location: Venice, CA Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Posted: 15 Jan. 2012 at 9:00pm |
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"Much bigger screwdriver.....or even a pry bar."
This was the ticket.  I used a small / medium pry bar and it bent over like butter. I think the angle of the bar helped more than the size as my screw driver was just as big. Thanks for the help. Now lets see how far I can get before another "help" post.  Ken   |
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Rus Curtis
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Posted: 16 Jan. 2012 at 12:21pm |
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Ken, Your posted picture shows the outer nut (lock nut) unsecured. There's nothing to stop it from backing off with this set up. Also, bending forward makes disassembly much easier. You thought bending the washer forward would be tough? I'll wager getting that lock washer to stand up so you can get it apart will be a real challenge. Yes, the washer is hard to bend and using a bigger tool can sometimes create bigger problems.
This works. You just take a little bit of the washer at a time - not the whole tab at once. Notice the reference about which way to bend. It needs to go outward. Do you have a jeep Service Manual? It describes the process (which is the same for the trailer) – although it is vague about the direction. The inner nut is called the adjustment nut. This is what you use to tighten the bearings with for proper seating. The outer nut is the lock nut and should be secured (after seating the bearings) by the lock washer sandwiched between the adjustment and lock nuts.
You're on the right track. There is an excellent technique for "how to" on the vernco.com website. If the washer is assembled (with nuts tightened) and then the washer marked, a pre-bend can be applied after taking it back out. Then reassemble and complete the bend. Then it will be correctly oriented outwards, and the bend will be in the right location for a tightened lock nut. Edited by Rus Curtis - 16 Jan. 2012 at 12:23pm |
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Rus Curtis
1954 CJ3B Bantam T3-C |
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kene
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Joined: 06 Aug. 2011 Location: Venice, CA Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Posted: 16 Jan. 2012 at 2:58pm |
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I guess the picture is not to clear.
The tab is bent down over the lock nut. I did take a couple little bites at it to get it started then bent it over the lock nut.
I'll check out the other site for more info.
Thanks
Ken
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bkreutz
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Posted: 16 Jan. 2012 at 3:10pm |
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The washer should be bent in two locations, the first bend is backwards over the inner nut, then outwards (in a different location
 ) over the outer. these two bends in conjunction with the tab on the inner part of the washer locks all 3 together in relation to the hub.
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kene
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Joined: 06 Aug. 2011 Location: Venice, CA Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Posted: 16 Jan. 2012 at 5:51pm |
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I can do that.
I did not realize I needed two bends. I did not see that when I took it apart,only one bend in my old washers.
Thanks
Ken
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Rus Curtis
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Posted: 16 Jan. 2012 at 9:57pm |
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Ken,
If that bend is outward, it is a real clean bend! Nice work!
Respectfully, I disagree. There is no indication in the Service Manual to bend both ways. Again, referencing the Front Wheel Section of the SM, Q-4, during disassembly and reassembly there's no mention of bending over the adjustment nut. I feel strongly that this is a technique and should be presented as such. This is similar to the recommendations on the vernco.com site. His technique was to bend both ways. IMHO, bending over the lock nut (outer) is all that's needed as the adjustment nut is held in place by the lock nut and lock washer.
I also don't believe a full bend inwards over the adjustment nut can be achieved as the inner washer is there and will prevent a full (effective) bend. There's probably nothing wrong with doing it but, to me, it just seems to be an extra step that doesn't add to the lock provided by the outer locknut.
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Rus Curtis
1954 CJ3B Bantam T3-C |
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bkreutz
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Posted: 17 Jan. 2012 at 1:39am |
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I don't have the referenced military manual, I'm just going by my servicing numerous full floater axles from various brands over the last 40 or so years. Part of the thinking is to prevent the inner nut from tightening up on the bearings as well as preventing loosening which couldn't happen anyway with the outer nut locked. But then again maybe Vern and I are doing it wrong.
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bkreutz wrote: