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MD Juan Body Faults

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Adrian View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adrian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: MD Juan Body Faults
    Posted: 16 Nov. 2012 at 2:42am
Guys, 

Here's a list of issues I had with the repro body I got direct from the Philipines, before you get the wrong idea I think they are very good value and if you are aware of what you are going to get,  it will help you ...

1, No holes for either pedal shafts.

2, No holes for steering column or oval hole if you have a column shift ( I spent quite a few days forming the oval hole with hammers and dollys.)

3, No holes for starter switch, dip switch, heater pipes(later type Harrison)

4, No hole for vacuum wiper hose, through left side of tub just back from wing mount.

4,  Emergency brake mount flatbar behind the dash panel is incorrect and the hole for the cable is a bit too low down (it made mounting the cable clamp bracket a bit tricky)

5, No crush pipes inside hat channels, just the wood packing that they fit in.

6, No mirror mount holes

7, No door jamb or pivot hinge holes. (only matters if you are going to have an original type top) 

8, Steering column bracket is riveted to the dash panel, needs to be changed to a bolt up if you have a column shift.

9, No holes for any of  the dash data plates, ignition switch.

10, Windscreen pivot mount holes on the right are too far back, they need to be about another 3/16 of an inch further towards the front of the panel.

11, Seat frames need to be reshaped quite a bit to get the seats to sit well and in line with each other.

12, Fuel tank filler neck angle completely wrong, I had to remove and reposition mine to get it to even look like going through the body hole., also no holes in the floor under the fuel tank for drain and outley.

13, park light bracket behind grill drilled incorrectly and lights protrude outside the grill panel.

14, No PTO lever hole......

15, Fuel tank retaining strap bracket welded to floor on backwards.....

I hope all this will help someone else who buys a body, there are things you need to know before you go to the trouble of painting it all and then later you discover things just are not correct and your paint job is in for a hard time when you correct everything.

99% of what I have mentioned is easy to fix, but some things did catch me out and I have to spot prime small areas and then get the Pasture Green paint out again to touch it all up....... 

Adrian      
1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1942 GMC CCKW 6x6 Dump Truck
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Freddy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Freddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2012 at 4:39am
Hello Adrian,

everything you mentionned I had to overcome and unfortunately some more:


16, Fender to body alignement needs massive front shimming of Body to match.
17, No return spring bracket for the e-brake.
18, Center hump/tranny tunnel to far right, gearbox cover out of alignement.
19, No topbow brackets (neither for use or storage).
20, Clearance issue between upper firewall "fold" and throttle linkage.
21, Poor design and quality of toolbox compartment
22, Right fender hits battery tray (rear right corner) when aligned
23, Stress folds overall
24, Centerhump does not correspond with gearbox position (cover will not fit)
25, Poor quality primer (in my case was packed in bubble foil when still wet)
26, Fuel tank filler neck not only in wrong angle and position but way too long inside
     (you will only be able to fill a half of a tankLOL)
27, upper body contours poorly shaped
28, overall lenght is more likely 3A, you´ll not be flush at the tail
29, left fender points outward (a bit when bolted in position)
31, some welds poorly executed and finished
32, RUST, oh yes they even incorporated that (example windshield tubing)
33, Latches to hook line not correct


to be fair there was some good about it


1, Uhhhm............ahhhhh
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i´ll remember and come back.
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ahhhh yes, it was actually steel and not cardboard.


As you sad, everything is repairable but needs a lot of work, time, tools and skills.
I wasn´t surprised because i know what pirate parts means

THIS IS NO BOLT ON PRODUCT!!!! DRY FIT IS CRUCIAL (on the Frame AND Engine in)
YOU WILL BE WELDING MORE THAN YOU BELIEVE; GET A ROTISSERIE.
INVEST TIME IN RUST PREVENTION; DON`T TAKE IT PERSONAL TO THE PHILLIPINES
THEY ARE GREAT PEOPLELOLLOLLOL

They are still an option, but you need to know this, work around every issue and
you´ll be ok.

I´ll have some pics in one of my next episodes.

Best regards
Freddy
(PS: ADRIAN I LOVE YOUR JEEP!)



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bretto View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bretto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2012 at 6:40am
I'd rather direct $2k, or whatever they a priced at now, at a full 'parts' Jeep with a decent body and fix it as needed and have lots of parts left over. I have bought a few nickel end dime items made by them and they are all sub standard. they don't even use the same gauge steel, which would scare me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote R Qualls Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2012 at 7:14am
I have several jeeps,and one has a repo tub, it looks good but I cant seem to bond with it like the others. It would be a whole lot better if I knew it was USA made, preferably old USA !!!
1946 cj-2A x2, 1951 M38
1954 cj-3B converted to a MB
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Willie8126 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2012 at 7:35am
I’ve not bought a replacement body but I’ve heard you can get one from a company that goes by Willys Overland Motors in Toledo, Ohio. From what I understand they get the bodies from the Phillopies and then do all the reworking on them for you.
Willysoverland.com
Phone - 888-265-JEEP(5337)
Email - info@willysoverland.com
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2012 at 7:43am
Yep, nice new thick steel, but that's about it. The 2A I helped with from MD Juan had all the list plus the windshield didn't fit the cowl curvature, the instruments didn't fit the dash , the frame mount holes didn't line up, and the mounts were off height wise. Glass doesn't fit the windshield channel and allow for the packing,  On and On. I now buy original stuff or another parts tub first. I'm trying Classic Enterprises panels now also. Jeep panels plus has faded away. I backed up a bit and bought a MD Juan toolbox lid and----------Angry It didn't fit the original opening. Had to re-learn why I don't anymore. The military gas tanks are another disaster or "chapter" in the don't do book of Jeeps. Just a tub at the cheapest from them is 2400.00. Kits are 35-3800.00. There are alot of running CJ's out there for that!!!!!!!!!!! With titles even.  Here in the US, nobody is going to step up and build one right because of the cost . It's in the same ballpark as new 600-16 Mud and Snow tires that are the same as the small originals. I have one brand new one that should be framed in a shadowbox and hung up in my shop----------hey that's a good idea huh?Big smile John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hillbilly21 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2012 at 7:48am
WILLIE8126      IS        100 % CORRECT

 TOO BAD YOUR NOT IN THE STATES  W/O IN TOLEDO DOES A FANTASTIC JOB RE-TOOLING THE SCREW UPS MD JUAN OFFERS ON THERE TUBS..JAY IS THE MAN TO TALK TO ON THEM..I HAVE BOUGHT SEVERAL TUBS OVER THE YEARS AND HAVE NOT HAD ANY ISSUES WITH THE FIT...
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www.eastcoastwillys.org
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www.eastcoastwillys.org
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2012 at 8:58am
Those of you who had complaints about MD Juan.. could you add to your complaint when your tub was produced? They constantly say their tubs are new and improved fitwise, and no longer have these fit issues... I realize there is some old stock out there.... but the tunnel fit issue and length were supposedly recently adressed....or did they miss again?
 
If you are talking about the fit problems from three years ago, it may not be the same experience for someone who bought a tub fresh off the boat...right?? or maybe not???
 
Still for those who cannot do the repairs needed to have a nice, non bondo filled jeep, they are a decent enough option. And with Classic and others offering repair panels there is a lot to say for a rebuilt original tub if you can do the work.
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Freddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2012 at 11:47am
Good idea Bill,

mine was purchased 2011, but i was unable to define the production date.

I´m with you that they are an option for a "driver" CJ2A "rebuild", you should
consider them as a starting point for your bodywork and not as a short cut.

If you aim for originality, look for a good used one to rework.

Here, in about two years NOTHING was available!!!


Freddy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adrian Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov. 2012 at 1:37pm
Well, at least if anyone who frequents this web site buys a body they will now be aware of whats ahead.

I am a Boilermaker/Welder by Trade so the problems are not difficult to fix, it was being aware they were there that caught me out a bit.

Being where I am the repro body was really the only choice I had.

The overall fit is ok, it seems to fit my original chassis very well and as I brought the "Master Kit" the MD Juan parts fitted all the other bits.

I would guess a combination of original and MD stuff would be were serious problems would arise.

I was tempted at one stage to make my own complete body and probably have the knowledge and tools to do it, its just a case of cost and time.

My Jeep had a repro M38 body when I got it, I did consider remodeling it but it was a better  option to sell it as it was and replace it with one of MDs early CJ2a Kits. Its got the correct tool indents, top bow brackets and grill panel, these later model MD bodys are from what i can gather far better than what was available 5 years ago.....

The body is all new steel, I have poured plenty of Fisholene type  products into all the nooks and crannies as I was working on it so the end result is I have a good completely rust free body which well looked  after should last me many years.

Once its on the road I will post more photos...............overall I am happy with it

Adrian     
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Freddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Nov. 2012 at 5:09pm
Just to be fair with the product:
 
in my list point 18 and 24 are adressing the same problem (center hump/cover offset);
and point 20 (Thottle pivot clearance) was my wrong, had the bracket 180° wrongOuch
 
Sorry
Freddy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67charger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Nov. 2012 at 9:13am
Classic Enterprises is the way to go when doing replacement panels! You just have to be patient with classics, but good things take time. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RommelJuan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2013 at 10:23am
thanks for the comments. We will work on these problems asap and update the forum on improvements.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oilleaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Feb. 2013 at 2:50pm
I'm impressed that you are reading the comments and will try and improve. If you get the quality up, I think you will sell many more.  John
Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!
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