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metal_miner Kubota swap

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    Posted: 26 Jan. 2015 at 12:49am
I’m a long-time lurker on many Willys Jeep forums, but decided to use this forum to document my upcoming Kubota swap into my MB / M38 hybrid since two other member threads are already on here. First, I want to start with my history of ownership and modifications.

In the early 2000’s I came across a “great deal” – a 1945 Willys MB. Apart from a short test drive and the owner’s word I shelled out way too much $ for it.  The frame was trashed, the body needed a lot of work, and the tiny T84 transmission was making a lot of noise and kept on popping out of gear. In the next few years, I had the original engine rebuilt and installed the body onto a M38 frame and drivetrain. I swapped in a T90C transmission (lower 1st and 2nd gears), a Spicer 18 transfer case with 3.6 O’Brien gears, and Saturn overdrive. I also added a Warn full floater kit with locker to the rear D41 axle, converted the steering to manual Saginaw, and added front disc brakes and rear 11” drum brakes.

In the mid 2000’s work responsibilities ramped up considerably and I got married, so I decided to stop modifications and just enjoy my jeep.  However, at this point I was so sick of working on it that it basically sat for long periods of time apart from tooling around town with my wife or playing in the hills around town.

I was never happy with the L134 “performance”, especially coupled with the heavier M38 drivetrain. The T90C transmission, which I had personally rebuilt, was also leaking oil from the bellhousing so I decided to pull it. This was when Novak started offering the Dodge NP435 conversion for L134 engines, so I decided to install the NP435 in place of the T90C. The oil leak from the T90C ended up being caused by me neglecting to put Loctite on one of the front input shaft retainer bolts, which in turn backed out.Embarrassed

In between all this I had a 2003 Dodge Ram with Cummins that I was modifying, so when I started reading about these Kubota swaps I was intrigued. Diesel performance is very addictive and after numerous turbo, custom programming, and injector combinations I am currently happy with ~725 rwHP / 1260 ft-lbs torque with a max effort ECM program loaded yielding minimal smoke and manageable exhaust temperatures. I have the same forum username on various Dodge diesel performance forums so one can read about my modification details elsewhere if interested. My wife’s car is a 2014 VW TDI, which will for sure stay stock.

Here are some pictures and videos of my jeep currently:




http://vid1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc392/metal_miner/Kubota%20swap/Jeep%20engine_zpsh77jmasj.mp4

http://vid1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc392/metal_miner/Kubota%20swap/Jeep%20tach_zpsbbbekzru.mp4


M38. SM465, 3.6 D18, Saturn OD. Soon to be Kubota V2203.

Other toy: 2003 Dodge Cummins with a few mods to 725 HP/1260 TQ.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote metal_miner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan. 2015 at 12:56am

Although my jeep only has ~2000 miles on it since my original restomod, I can’t leave well enough alone… and as I mentioned diesel performance is addictive.

Apart from a Kubota swap I also want to change around my Saginaw steering, redo my cage, redo my wiring job, convert to hanging pedals, and work on the body some more, especially the floor pans which I didn’t touch the first time around, but they are in pretty bad shape.

So 8 months ago I purchased the Overland Diesel conversion kit and sourced two V2203 IDI engines.  Both engines had cracked heads, but one engine was 4,000 hours and I saw it run before pulled for repairs and the other engine was about 10,000 hours. I bought a new head for the low hour engine and cleaned everything up. I decided to just keep the higher hour engine for a spare.

Fast forward to last December and I bolted up the Overland Diesel adapter to the engine and found the starter wouldn’t fit! It turns out my V2203 was an AG spec engine that had castings on the side of it to encase dual balancers. Nowhere in my research and Overland Diesel’s knowledge did V2203’s come like this. #$%^&!






M38. SM465, 3.6 D18, Saturn OD. Soon to be Kubota V2203.

Other toy: 2003 Dodge Cummins with a few mods to 725 HP/1260 TQ.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote metal_miner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan. 2015 at 1:05am
I found a buyer for both IDI V2203 engines for basically what $ I had purchased them. I’ll just sell the new head on EBAY for probably a loss.

Concurrently, I sourced and purchased a reefer spec V2203 DI engine, which is an upgrade over the IDI engine.

As purchased:


On engine stand ready to drill turbo oil drain and dipstick holes as well as swap to industrial oil pan:



First step, however, was to swap valve covers to one with an oil fill cap.  I kept various parts associated with the cracked IDI heads, which both came with valve covers with oil fill caps:


I also checked valve lash. Shop manual calls for 0.0071” to 0.0086”. I set all to 0.008”. I did find some valves with no lash and some with excessive lash.  I also set up a dial indicator to find TDC and marked TDC on the crank pulley.


Valve cover with oil cap installed:


Next weekend I will drill the holes for the turbo oil drain and dipstick and install the industrial oil pan.  The paint the engine seller installed looked like it was sprayed on over dirt and oil, so I will clean the engine after a thorough cleaning and repaint it.

 

 

 

M38. SM465, 3.6 D18, Saturn OD. Soon to be Kubota V2203.

Other toy: 2003 Dodge Cummins with a few mods to 725 HP/1260 TQ.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote copicmarker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan. 2015 at 8:23am
Great, good luck and please keep us up to date.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pjensen641 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jan. 2015 at 3:58pm
Quite the build history there!  I am in the middle of a frame off resto-mod of my grandpas jeep (which I learned to drive on when i was about 12, now 36).  Its getting a V2203 DI and I'm swapping in T90C gears, with an OD to come later.  I sure wish they still made the D41 full floater kit!!  I'd like to pull mine down the highway without tearing up the rear end.

I have a refer spec DI engine too.  It has no filler on the valve cover.  If you would like to sell your other valve cover with the filler, let me know!

Also, what parts source do you use for the Kubota parts?  I've only really found parts-barn.com or dealers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote metal_miner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2015 at 6:06am
Originally posted by pjensen641 pjensen641 wrote:

Quite the build history there!  I am in the middle of a frame off resto-mod of my grandpas jeep (which I learned to drive on when i was about 12, now 36).  Its getting a V2203 DI and I'm swapping in T90C gears, with an OD to come later.  I sure wish they still made the D41 full floater kit!!  I'd like to pull mine down the highway without tearing up the rear end.

I have a refer spec DI engine too.  It has no filler on the valve cover.  If you would like to sell your other valve cover with the filler, let me know!

Also, what parts source do you use for the Kubota parts?  I've only really found parts-barn.com or dealers.


Thank you! I think Herm the OD guy sells a 19-spline full float kit: http://hermtheoverdriveguy.com/?page_id=1609

I'll private message you on the valve cover.

As far as parts I've used parts-barn.com, EBAY, and http://www.gciron.com/

gciron is out of Florida so ordering parts took at least 5 days to ground ship to me unless I paid for premium shipping. However, their website is great for finding parts numbers via drawings.

However, lately I have just looked up part numbers via the Kubota website and then went to my local Kubota tractor dealer and ordered the parts.


M38. SM465, 3.6 D18, Saturn OD. Soon to be Kubota V2203.

Other toy: 2003 Dodge Cummins with a few mods to 725 HP/1260 TQ.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lemield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jan. 2015 at 1:52pm
Looking good!
 
I've done this swap so if I can answer any questions or provide more detailed pictures, let me know.
 
I also have an itemized parts list from my swap that I would be happy to email you if you send me your email address.
 
I LOVE my Kubota swap!
 
 
Larry

1949 CJ2A "Little Stinky Green" Kubota Diesel Powered
1970 Chevy C20 454 "Big Red"
1971 Chevy K20 6.2 Diesel "Pumpkin Wagon"
2001 Mercedes CLK320
2003 Cadillac Seville
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote metal_miner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb. 2015 at 4:48am
The task this weekend was to get the holes drilled for the oil dipstick and turbo drain.

The Overland Diesel instructions called for drilling with a 29/64 bit.  I was a little concerned about drilling the hole perpendicular to the angled bosses on the engine block as well as not wallowing out the hole so I decided to use a 7/16 bit followed by a 29/64 reamer. I also sourced out a 7/16 drill bushing guide that I could hold flush to the bosses to help guide the drill.







I had to bevel the edge of the bushing guide a bit to follow the block casting angle for the turbo drain and to center the guide on the boss. I also used a 12" long bit to get past the fuel pump. It turns out that if it rests against the pump casting it allows for the drilling to be perpendicular with the drill bushing guide centered on the casting boss.











Forgot to mention that I placed paper inside the block to deflect any metal shavings. I also placed a magnet near where the bit would enter the inside of the block just in case. After drilling, I then ran a pencil magnet to collect any stray shavings that may have escaped.

The drain fittings for the oil dipstick and turbo are a tight fit. I tried using a deep socket to drive them in.  I managed to screw up one fitting Censored so I put the other one in the freezer. It then drove in no problem Thumbs Up.



Finished:



The next step in my swap is learning how to MIG weld. I took a stick welding night class about 4 years ago, but haven't done any welding since. Last year I finally broke down and bought a MIG welder and decided my first project will be to build a table. After I got done with the turbo and dipstick project this weekend I started practicing on coupons. I need a lot of practice. A lot.

M38. SM465, 3.6 D18, Saturn OD. Soon to be Kubota V2203.

Other toy: 2003 Dodge Cummins with a few mods to 725 HP/1260 TQ.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote metal_miner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar. 2015 at 12:27am
As I mentioned earlier the engine supplier looked to have slapped a bunch of paint on the engine to make it look presentable in pictures so I decided to clean the engine to bare metal:



I noticed a drip from the water pump that I didn't notice before with the dark paint so I pulled the water pump and found that it was rusted to crap and that the previous owner dumped stop leak in the engine to disguise the leak:



After some curse words I ordered a new pump and replaced without incident.

The next step was to replace the rear main seal while I had access to it and I noticed some wetness.



The old seal had a superceded part number so I decided to use the new style seal which had a double lip instead of a single lip and felt seal like the old seal I pulled off. I proceeded to ruin the new seal upon installation:



So I ordered the old style seal and had no issues with installation:



Here is the engine as it sits now after last weekend with adapter, starter, flywheel, and engine supports mounted:



After I got to this stage, I then tried to start the engine after a few pumps of the fuel pump primer. It lit off after about 15 seconds of cranking.

Next weekend I want to weld up a new welding table and then I can pull my jeep into the garage to start the engine swap.

M38. SM465, 3.6 D18, Saturn OD. Soon to be Kubota V2203.

Other toy: 2003 Dodge Cummins with a few mods to 725 HP/1260 TQ.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar. 2015 at 5:35am
I followed Daniel Buck's Kubota build. Interested to see how yours moves along.

Does anyone know if an Izuzu 4 cylinder DI TD has been used in a CJ? I am thinking about the standard truck transmissions, etc. that are available for Izuzu diesel vehicles… might make an interesting project?
'47 CJ2A -- #114542
Warn FF D41 rear
Lock-Right locker
11" drum brakes
Dual master cylinder
T90C Transmission
16 X 6 Jeep truck wheels
Cooper STT Pro tires
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lemield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar. 2015 at 12:42pm
The Kubota engine looks nice all painted up in blue. :)
 
 
Larry

1949 CJ2A "Little Stinky Green" Kubota Diesel Powered
1970 Chevy C20 454 "Big Red"
1971 Chevy K20 6.2 Diesel "Pumpkin Wagon"
2001 Mercedes CLK320
2003 Cadillac Seville
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote metal_miner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr. 2015 at 5:08am
Originally posted by Lemield Lemield wrote:

The Kubota engine looks nice all painted up in blue. :)


Thank you! I wasn't sure how much paint I needed so I ordered a 6-pack of Kubota blue spray paint. I think I have 3-4 cans left; a little goes a long way. By the way, your parts list you sent me is very helpful in gathering all the smaller accessory parts together.

Anyhow, I took a break from the swap to concentrate on practicing welding. I got my first welding project done and built this table:









When it comes to learning how to weld, there are some really great YouTube channels. The camera focusing on the weld puddle while the skilled welder's voice talks about key points is invaluable. I'll just continue practicing...

So today I brought my jeep into the garage and started getting ready to yank the L134:



One thing that has irritated me is that my jeep leans to the driver's side quite a bit.  I know this is normal, for these old jeeps, but it's still irritating none the less!  I took some measurements and found that the L134 engine is about 2.5" off center to the driver's side. I guess this plus the weight of fuel on the driver's side must outweigh the Dana 18 transfer case biased toward the passenger side???

The motor mounts for the Kubota are also offset to the driver's side, but it looks like only 1.5". For those that have done the Kubota swap do you still get the jeep lean?

M38. SM465, 3.6 D18, Saturn OD. Soon to be Kubota V2203.

Other toy: 2003 Dodge Cummins with a few mods to 725 HP/1260 TQ.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SlowPocono Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr. 2015 at 12:42pm
Nice table!
Is that an original design, or did you find plans somewhere?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote thefixer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr. 2015 at 1:14pm
Are your springs the original ones? IMHO 90 percent of the jeep lean is worn out leaf springs. My 44 GPW had the original springs in it and for a while I was afraid to make a right turn cuz it felt like it was going to tip over. I played around with the leaf packs on the left side, and got her flattened out pretty good.
41 MB Slat Grill, 44 GPW, 46 2A, 48 2A, 51 M38, 54 3B Kubota diesel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote metal_miner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr. 2015 at 3:12pm
Originally posted by SlowPocono SlowPocono wrote:

Nice table!
Is that an original design, or did you find plans somewhere?




Thanks! I just looked on various online welding forums to see what other people did and then adapt to my work space. I work in an attached 2-car garage that has to remain usable so I wanted mobility, storage, and a table that would tuck over the stem wall that protrudes into the garage. On the vice side of the table I might add on a lower table for my saw.  That way, when the saw is on that lower table, the vice is behind it and not be in the way of handling metal.
M38. SM465, 3.6 D18, Saturn OD. Soon to be Kubota V2203.

Other toy: 2003 Dodge Cummins with a few mods to 725 HP/1260 TQ.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote metal_miner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr. 2015 at 3:19pm
Originally posted by thefixer thefixer wrote:

Are your springs the original ones? IMHO 90 percent of the jeep lean is worn out leaf springs. My 44 GPW had the original springs in it and for a while I was afraid to make a right turn cuz it felt like it was going to tip over. I played around with the leaf packs on the left side, and got her flattened out pretty good.


The springs are actually new with only about 2000 miles. About 1500 miles ago, I swapped springs around and it helped a bit, but it's back to the same lean.

Yesterday before starting to dismantle the engine compartment, I took measurements at all 4 corners of the frame-to-floor.  After I pull the engine I will take these same measurements again to compare.
M38. SM465, 3.6 D18, Saturn OD. Soon to be Kubota V2203.

Other toy: 2003 Dodge Cummins with a few mods to 725 HP/1260 TQ.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote metal_miner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr. 2015 at 6:21am
Today was a productive day. I got everything stripped to see what I had to work with:

Engine out:


My L134 had blew one of those filter hoses. That combined with the bug dust around here made a nice protective paint cover:




Here are a few pictures of the Novak Dodge NP435 adapter to L134. The Dodge NP435 input shaft is 23 spline. The kit uses a T90 throwout bearing, L134 pressure plate, and Novak supplied 23 spline clutch disc. The L134 bell housing to transmission bolt holes have their threads drilled out and the bellhousing attaches to the transmission from the inside of the bellhousing.



M38. SM465, 3.6 D18, Saturn OD. Soon to be Kubota V2203.

Other toy: 2003 Dodge Cummins with a few mods to 725 HP/1260 TQ.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote metal_miner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr. 2015 at 6:24am
When I first purchased my MB, the online forums were still in relative infancy. My mechanical skills and knowledge were also very low.  Now, after seeing many peoples’ Willys restomods I took notes of things that interested me. Going into this project I had the following wish list of things to do:

-Plate driver’s side firewall and install hanging pedals from XJ

-Hydraulic clutch or adapt the hanging pedal to the chain mechanism I have now

-Fix my steering set-up

-Redo wiring harness by putting fuse box in engine compartment and using quick connects

-Notch wheelhousings

-Various body work

-CJ5 tank under rear floor

-Considering new longer travel shock mounts

-Considering fabbing bumpers as crossmembers

-New rollcage with seat tie in

The steering fix is not a wish anymore. When I first installed the Saginaw manual setup I didn’t want it hanging down too low and I didn’t want to tunnel through the round crossmember so I installed the box with the input tilting down and then used multiple shafts to link up to the steering column. It steered well, but I realized that the drag link could bind if somehow these stiff springs ever compressed enough. This never happened so I lived with it. Now after taking some measurements today, the heim joint support will interfere with the Kubota motor mounts. I’ll hack this support off and rethink my steering after the engine is installed. My front frame horns look OK too so I'll see what I can do with boxed tube after researching some more.



As far as body work goes, my first go around with my jeep I had the rear panel and rear quarter panels replaced. However, my entire floor needs to be replaced. The rear wheel housings have also seen many better days. Basically my MB body was adapted to a M38 frame. The floor-to-drive train clearance on an MB body is a bit less than a M38 so here’s my dilemma: should I buy a repo body or do all the work to change out floors to M38 style and save the rest of the body? It’s more cost effective materials wise to change out floors, but I think I would go berserk on the labor and detail involved in replacing floors. I’m thinking for a jig I would just leave the body on the frame and perhaps use the rollcage to keep thinks from moving. However, starting with a new body means I have blank sheet of paper so to speak and not lose time.


M38. SM465, 3.6 D18, Saturn OD. Soon to be Kubota V2203.

Other toy: 2003 Dodge Cummins with a few mods to 725 HP/1260 TQ.
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