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My Jeep frame

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micjen View Drop Down
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    Posted: 05 Aug. 2014 at 4:27am
My Jeep frame had a sandblast. Its looking sad and will give me plenty of work to resurrect from the junkyard. The termites of steel have been busy...... Diagnosis. Not terminal but close.

First pic. A classic Bubba repair with a free crack and rusty bolts and body mount.



Photo 2. Termites have been very busy here. A 49" section from Walcks will do just fine here.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote micjen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug. 2014 at 4:32am

The other side of the frame. Termites got a bit busy here. Fortunately a 49" section will cure.

I wonder how the rear spring was riding? Not too well I think. Bit of work but will live.



Got to love that classic Bubba repair. Right at the spring hanger. Ouch



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote micjen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug. 2014 at 7:11am
Ordered the bits and pieces to repair the frame. Quite extensive for what is supposed to be a relatively simple part. It will be very rivetting (pardon the pun). At least it will be mostly original.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote micjen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug. 2014 at 10:53pm
I wonder if the angle one sees inside the side chassis/frame rails is original? I tend to think it was added later. Anyone seen it before on theirs?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug. 2014 at 11:33pm
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM"

"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote micjen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug. 2014 at 12:59am
Mine is obviously a CJ3A/B frame so not original. Which is OK in a way due to a thicker guage of steel

I am taking the opportunity to convert my frame to the earlier type of bumper gussets appropriate to the 1946 year as I have to replace the front rails anyway and the bumper on mine is so butchered as well.

Plus other appropriate detail changes to suit such as the torched rad supports and grill mount.  Apart from those laminations on top. Definitely a real rust trap. And keeping the steering bellcrank as per later as well as the offset engine mounts as i do have a CJ3A engine plate. The CJ2A one I have is mutilated to the extreme.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote micjen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug. 2014 at 10:59pm
I am so very tempted to completely dismantle the frame then sandblast all individual parts, then hot dip galvanise all the loose parts and reassemble. Since the front rails need replacing its not too much of a stretch to pull it all apart provided I make up a jig first. Great for alignment by the way.

Walcks is great for parts by the way. But getting the bits to Australia costs me nearly as much in freight. The only place that has Willys parts here seems not to want any business. They shall remain nameless.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote micjen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug. 2014 at 9:01am
Anyone got an easy way to remove rivets? I was going to drill through the centre and hit them with an air chisel to remove the heads and punch out the hollow part left over (if any). Not something I have done before ie remove and install solid rivets.

By the way the place which shall remain nameless I sent the frame for repairs wanted to do it their way on their time scale which meant thousands of dollars with full box in. I demanded it returned to me. They still haven't returned it as yet so its kind of hostage for now. At least it got a good sandblasting.

Reasonable frames are not exactly available even if mine is a CJ3A or early B frame so very annoyed. Angry I learnt one thing, you must watch out where ones frame goes to for repairs. These large parts are almost irreplaceable being nearly 70 years old and to lose it would be a real shame. Not to mention a real setback for the project.

I also now have the parts to begin repair on it myself. If this can happen to a professional mechanic how much more so for the unsuspecting amateur. I got caught cause I hate rust repairs and will do almost anything to avoid them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 52 M38 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug. 2014 at 10:42am
During the course of my build I have gotten burned a couple of times.  I try to have work done locally, to avoid it, but it still happened.  It speaks highly for you that you have the experience to see the situation developing that you know will turn bad.  I ended up paying about 25% more for a repair than I should have.  When I would look over the work and was not satisfied or would want something cleaned up I was charged for a second amount of work not as the original hours.  When i got the bill I respectfully told the gentleman there was no way.  We came to an agreement Where he got about 75% and I got my jeep back.  All of which was done with a cool head, but I will not be recommending him. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote micjen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug. 2014 at 10:54pm
We must remember that in restoring a historic vehicle that many of the businesses out there are out for the money and are simply not interested in our type of project. they will happily take the money but do little in return.

I have heard of worse. The frame has gone off for repair and never been seen again. Or it comes back so destroyed it needs a total rebuild.

Same goes for the Willys engine which has a couple of very unusual design ideas. I have heard of many engines that come back as little more than scrap.

Today they have promised to return my frame. Mind you they took the money for freight a week ago. Plus charged me $450 for sandblasting and only did that after me chasing them for weeks. I would say thats rather expensive and very slow.

I will do the lot myself after that even if I have to buy some equipment to do it. I certainly have the skills to do most repairs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote micjen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug. 2014 at 8:10am
I got my frame back. Luckily. The sandblasting was a big help.

 Already removed the brackets I will be using along with the bad ones ready for replacement. Next job is to find get made or somehow get some straight channel to repair it and join it to the 48" repair sections.


I have on hand the replacement front and rear bumpers, brackets and L and R 48" repair sections. Apart from the straight and front section the rest of it is quite good with little pitting.

It will live. Should never have sent it to them in the first place.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote micjen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug. 2014 at 7:43am
Been busy with the frame. First part was to remove all the fittings such as engine mounts, spring mounts etc. This pic shows what I am up against. The rivets I simply centre punched them, then drilled a 4 mm hole followed by a 9 mm drill. Then simply cut the head off with a sharp chisel. Had to grind a few welds off. Even with the Bubba repairs the frame measures straight in all directions.

One spring mount as can be seen is rather bad. Like not there at all. However the top of the rail is good so leaves a bit behind for dimension and squaring purposes.


am up against
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote micjen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug. 2014 at 7:52am
Next job was to simply mount the new rails onto the existing frame and square up. These are MB rails 48" long made by Juan. Bit to do to get them to CJ2A rails (early). One can see here the difference between frames. MB/CJ2A vs CJ3A/B. There are narrower by about 5 mm. and fractionally thinner but so little in it it hardly matters with welding. Probably they used 2.5mm plate which is very close to 1/8".

However the height of the frames on the curve is very different but the curve remains the same between both frames.

I noticed the bottom part of the rail is parallel to the top part of the exdisting rail. Makes life easy. No fancy curves etc. I simply lined up the new spring mount centre holes (rivets) with the existing frame holes. The frame horn end also nicely matches the end of the existing frame horn.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote micjen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug. 2014 at 7:57am
Next I simply cut the frame rails both sides with a 4" angle grinder and cut off wheel. Notice I have also bolted in place the transmission mount (CJ3A style) to hold the lot together. Fits well also.

No turning back now. The frame rails including the front cross member are off. The idea was to fix the front part first then attend to the rails. Seems to work without using anything fancy.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote micjen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug. 2014 at 8:05am
Final installment for now. I tacked the replacement side rails on and also installed the front cross member. Effectively it is now a MB frame till some of the little bits and pieces are done turning it into a CJ2A frame (early).

All I did was turn the cut frame upside down on level concrete and block it up. Then I clamped each rail on and squared them up as I tacked. Numerous diagonal checks and height checks and level checks and width checks later I was able to get the tube in. I might add Mr Juans tube is a bit short but not excessively so. Bit of pad welding to build up and it is now secured to the side rail.

I anyone notices the funny looking cart from 2 trolleys is for placing irrigation vine tube clips in a vineyard so one doesn't break ones back. Simply sit down and push.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan_289 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug. 2014 at 4:00pm
BravoClap  You make me feel guilty for scrapping the frame on my 48 and going with another.  Compared to yours it looked pretty good!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote micjen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug. 2014 at 10:26pm
The problem with rebuilding a Jeep in Australia was that used parts and candidates for restoration are few and far between. Even the most rusted out example sells for many thousands. Plus I count only about 6 or so Jeeps available for a project online and most are CJ3B's.

This came about that jeeps are LHD and all LHD vehicles were banned from registration from 1948 till about year 2,000. Needless to say very few have survived. Most that have were dumped on cattle stations and left to rot in peace. Mine was on a farm close by to a RAAF base dating from WW2. It was very rusty to say the least but the basics are there. Diffs, gearbox, transfer case, an engine, frame (as above). Plus a useless body beyond repair. Even that cost me $1,500 here.

On the plus side a reasonably well done restoration will sell for $30,000 plus here. Not that I am in it for the money. And all one needs for rego is a chassis and engine number. We don't have the title issues of USA. But inspection rules are very strict.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote micjen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Aug. 2014 at 8:21am
I have done a bit more. I cut out the bad part of the right frame rail and cut a piece of  rectangular tube with the plasma cutter. I made it just a fraction narrow (unfortunately) than the front frame. So I will have to fix that up. (A slight taper will do the trick plus the strapping).

 It wasn't easy. Lining up the spring mounts isn't easy either. if they were the same width  it would be great but it is not. Plus as I discovered the frame is wider at the rear than the front. Might I add by the thickness of the spring mount.

Next will be the worst side. Not that this one is any good. Look at the unjoined crack and hunk of bolted angle iron that was used to "repair" it.

Finally I will put in fish plates to reinforce the vertical cuts. And once I have my springs I will weld in the spring mounts and rivet them.


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