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Need frame repair advice

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dschroff View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote dschroff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Need frame repair advice
    Posted: 13 Sep. 2011 at 5:00pm
Well like many 2A owners, I found some bad rust in a spot under the battery box on my frame.  I decided to cut it out and repair it.  I had planned to repair the tube part of the front crossmember, but I don't know if I can get the angles right.  I found the whole front tube at Walck's for like 75 bucks, but I would have to cut off the steering bracket, and weld it on the new tube from Walck's.  Any suggestions?  Has anyone done this before?
 
1947 CJ2A #145337 (Penelope)
2010 Wrangler Unlimited
Very Patient Wife
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F Bill View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote F Bill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep. 2011 at 5:57pm
"I had planned to repair the tube part of the front crossmember, but I don't know if I can get the angles right. "
 
Not sure what angles you are referring to, what I see in your picture looks pretty good so far if you can find matching tubing and a piece of slightly smaller tubing to sleeve the repair.  If you can clean up the inside of the tube a little better, and slide a piece of tubing inside it as an alignment sleeve and splint for the repair, do a butt weld with a fairly large gap so it also welds to the repair sleeve, and add some 3/8 holes to do some plug welds as well. you can grind it all smooth to hide the seams as long as you have the extra metal in there. I wouldn't try to save the piece of the original tubing  that is still attached to the rail....too many pieces to fit and weld. Just make one repair part that goes from the cut to the outside of the rail. I beleive originally they head three or four tabs that extended thru the rail side and were welded from the outside.
 
You can make a custom insert by taking the tubing used for the crossmember and slicing a small section out of it, then squeeze it down to fit the smaller size.
 
A new crossmember will make a very nice repair , but there is the extra $$ and welding of the bellcrank to deal with.
 
Your frame rail repairs look decent, needing only new metal butt welded in to finish. You might want to look into using a set of Daniel's  repair plates to add a little more meat to the front horns as long as you are this far.. (Uglyjeep is his handle here, look in member made parts..)
If you haven't checked out the tech FAQ section, go to:
http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/tech-faq_forum57.html
for a lot of great stuff you need to know!!

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ralf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote ralf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep. 2011 at 7:47pm
I have done it.  I replaced both front frame horns and the tubular cross member as mine had none.  I got the parts from Walcks.  Then Carl sold me a used steering bracket that I welded to the tubular cross member. I have some pics in my build thread.

http://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/ralphs-47-progress_topic9572_page2.html


Edited by ralf - 13 Sep. 2011 at 7:51pm
1946 CJ2A Column Shift #14575

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1948 CJ2A

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Randy Snyder View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Randy Snyder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep. 2011 at 11:12pm
Read Ren Bernier's frame repair section.  Good website w/ lots of good information.
 
 
Randy
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dschroff View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote dschroff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep. 2011 at 6:21pm
Well, I took F Bill's advice, and patched in my own frame repair piece. I went to a local plumbing supply store and bought a 3 inch OD pipe nipple, which had threaded ends. It was thicker than the frame, so I ground down the the threaded part and cut it to length. The threaded end fit perfectly into the existing tube. I drilled four holes in the existing crossmember, butt welded in the new pipe and filled the holes. I need to do a little more welding and grinding, but I'm pretty confident that the repair will be strong and look good! I have blasted and primed half of the frame so far...
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Randy Snyder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2011 at 12:07am
Nice work!!
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Post Options Post Options   Quote dschroff Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2011 at 8:06am
Thanks, Randy.  I have also noticed that my frame seems to be a little off.  It seems like it may be a little twisted.  I know that the technology wasn't the greatest back in '47, so I expect these things weren't 100% perfect when they came off the line.  I have also noticed some of the welds on the frame are not the greatest.... obviously done with a stick welder.  Is it normal to maybe have a little twist in the frame?
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Harveynailbanger View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Harveynailbanger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2011 at 10:15am
mine was twisted a bit as well, i had it up on jackstands on all four corners, lowered one jackstand on the high side one notch and stacked sandbags on both high corners while i was welding patches in . the weight and heat brought everything back in line pretty easy. did basically the same thing with the tub after frame was a roller again set tub on and bolted it down while doing some of the bigger patches. it straightened out pretty well. these frames are pretty flexible, which is one reason the mountig tabs and holes are usually boogered up , from all the flexing they do.
 
Rick
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Randy Snyder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2011 at 11:22pm
Agree with Rick.  If you have the frame bare, you should try to get  it as straight as possible.  A little heat and some force will get it back in shape.  Try to get it to set on the four inboard spring hangers on a flat floor.   I rented a power pack from a rental store to help get a twist out of the frame from the previous owners "wreck".  Some heat and pressure from the jacks worked wonders in little time. 
 
Randy
'46 2A #13943

'46 2A #26236

'45 T3-C #436

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