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New Willys owner - 1946 CJ2A

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konstan View Drop Down
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    Posted: 22 Aug. 2016 at 3:24am
Hi everyone, new Willys owner here. A friend of mine got me into the Willys hobby, we've been wrenching on his jeep for a while... Then I see this ebay auction, the jeep was less than 10 miles from my house, so of course I had to get it.

Here it is on a car dolly. I disconnected the front shaft. The rear tires weren't looking good, so, this was the best way.

I am going to go resize the rest of the images (it won't let me upload them unless they are < 2mb) and then also post the overall status...










Edited by konstan - 22 Aug. 2016 at 3:26am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote konstan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug. 2016 at 3:30am
Here is a pic of the engine bay. 
The jeep sat for about 46 years (last driven in 1970), so, yeah, its rusty.




Edited by konstan - 22 Aug. 2016 at 3:32am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote konstan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug. 2016 at 3:37am
Spent today taking things off, trying to see what it would take to get her started... Here are my findings, in no particular order:

1. The motor is stuck. I put a 1 3/8 socket on the crank nut and it won't budge. Going to take the head off, see whats under there. The head is stuck on there, of course, so, soaking the studs in PB blaster. Poured some MM oil into the cylinders through the SP holes.

2. Took off the starter and tried it with a (brand new) 6V battery. It spins, but its not very strong -- I can actually stop it from spinning with my hand. I am actually more bummed about this than I am about the stuck motor :)

3. Need to fix the rear tire so that I can use the rear end to rock the jeep to break the motor loose. I think it just needs a new tube. The lug nuts are a bear.




Edited by konstan - 22 Aug. 2016 at 3:58am
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mike in oregon View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mike in oregon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug. 2016 at 4:11am
Welcome to the Page. The left side lug nuts are left hand thread if you did not know that. Heard lots of stories about guys breaking the studs that did not know that righty tighty is not always true. be careful  trying to rock the engine over as you good bend a rod or crank if the piston is stuck good.
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http://www.facebook.com/pages/Oregon-Flat-Fender-Club/222864787838570

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote konstan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug. 2016 at 4:46am
Originally posted by mike in oregon mike in oregon wrote:

The left side lug nuts are left hand thread if you did not know that.
OMG no way!!! I had no idea! Going to the garage to spin them the opposite way, will post what happens.

Update: yeah, the wheel is off... thank you so much for that tip!!!
Now I just need to get the starter sorted out, and get the engine turning...


Edited by konstan - 22 Aug. 2016 at 5:18am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Izzy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug. 2016 at 1:59am
Dad used to have me pour the following into a stuck motor, this is way back and we were desperate.
Wd40
Liquid wrench
Auto trans fluid
Desiel fuel
Kerosene
Gasoline

Basically anything that would seep past the rings.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote konstan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug. 2016 at 2:49am
Thanks! I am pouring ATF and Mineral spirits into the SP holes but I am also kind of committed to taking the head off, so I can clean things up; i want to see how bad the rust is in the cylinders.

Unfortunately, the darn thing does not want to come off.

I don't have a welder, so instead of a spark plug lift tool I hooked up the hoist to the thermostat housing bolts. I can lift the jeep with it, but the head won't come loose.

I've been also tapping it with a hammer with a piece of a 2x4 in between.

What else should I try? Or just do this for a few days?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Dog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug. 2016 at 3:10am
Looks like you have a really exciting adventure ahead of you! Be patient, ask lots of questions and enjoy the ride. You came to the right place to tap into years of experience from all the members here. I have found answers to many questions just by searching the archives.

Welcome and best of luck as you unlock your own special Willys history.
I work out at the gym so I can eat cookies!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug. 2016 at 12:14pm
Fwiw, I soaked the head bolts on my last adventure in atf/acetone for two weeks or more before any attempt to budge things... most nuts came off, some studs came out with the nuts, but what finally popped the head itself loose was the old soft rope through the sp hole and turning the crank by the nut method.

Lol, can take no credit, learned it here, but it does work if you can get things turning. Soaking and patience is key. Any chance you can figure o
ut which cylinder is on the compression stroke and get some compressed air in there? (My luck it'll be all the way up just befor tdc and would be pushing through the crank centerline anyway)

Edited by mbullism - 23 Aug. 2016 at 12:19pm
Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote konstan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug. 2016 at 3:28pm
So, do you all mostly agree that its the studs that its frozen too, and not the gasket surface itself thats preventing it from popping off?

When I was taking the head nuts off, only three of the studs came with the nuts, the rest stayed in there.

Should I try a stud remover on them?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug. 2016 at 3:38pm
I dont have enough of them under my belt to say universally, but can say that even after the gasket let go I was a full half hour alternating wooden wedges around just getting the head off the remaining studs-

.


Edited by mbullism - 23 Aug. 2016 at 3:42pm
Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug. 2016 at 3:40pm
Probably the gasket itself is holding the head on. Studs can get rust and add to the sticking, but I suspect that you just need to get that gasket broken loose.  Some people use plastic or wood wedges, or even steel ones if you are careful not to mare up the mating surfaces.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug. 2016 at 3:47pm
I'll add that if you go the wedges route, be extremely mindful working around the valves until you get a good feeling for what you're banging on.  I had one exhaust valve stuck wide open that would have been easy to damage further had I been using steel wedges early on, and the valves are proud of the deck even when closed... at least the wood split easily when it contacted anything unseen.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote konstan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug. 2016 at 6:02pm
I am going to see if I can pick up some brass stock at fastenal and make a couple of brass wedges by milling a sharp end on them.... Once I have at least a small crack, I will switch to wood shims. Will post pics!

Edited by konstan - 23 Aug. 2016 at 6:40pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote konstan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug. 2016 at 1:48am
Ended up making those wedges from aluminum. Didnt have any brass pieces; aluminum is softer but turned out to be sufficient:




Here it is, the wedge is doing its job:


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote konstan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug. 2016 at 1:52am
And here is what was under it. I think (well, really, I *hope*) it looks worse than it actually is. Three of the cylinders have the ATF+solvent mix still in them, the fourth seems to be drained. The cylinder walls seem to be ok i.e. not badly pitted.

What is this rusty crap everywhere? Does this mean somewhere I lost all that metal that turned into this crud?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeeper50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug. 2016 at 10:40pm
rust probably from the head bolts, just let it soak, i used a 2x4 and a BFH to jar the rings to get them to brake loose from the bores. sop up the oil in  cyl before hammering or wear safety glasses. key word is dont get in a hurry.

mine looked like that too, then it turned... https://youtu.be/uCSPUSvXy0c



then with a little more work...








Edited by jeeper50 - 24 Aug. 2016 at 11:06pm

Belleview ol skool winch soon.
'48 CJ2A 283 V8 sm 420 granny low, tera low D18, overdrive,lockers

Texan at heart,Alabama by retirement

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Basket case Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug. 2016 at 11:22am
check your valves. When my motor was stuck the valves where stuck in the guides. I found this after I pulled the engine and tore down for a rebuild.
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