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Rear Main Bearing Seal - success or failure |
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sean 
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 Topic: Rear Main Bearing Seal - success or failurePosted: 30 July 2011 at 6:11pm |
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THIS IS A POLL ONLY, to collect factual data on running engines. I do NOT want it to devolve into a general/technical discussion on the merits/demerits of any particular seal type. The proper place for that is "Tech Q&A".
---------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you have ever rebuilt your own L-134 engine, or had it shop rebuilt, AND used a neoprene rear main seal, AND have put enough miles/hours on it to be satisfied of the outcome, please participate in this poll.
If you DON'T KNOW what type of neoprene seal was installed, please DO NOT make a choice above, just add a post below, indicating unknown neoprene, and describing your experience. What constitutes a "Major Failure"? Anything which prevented use of the engine until the "seal issue" had been resolved by seal replacement. eg, a simple "leak" is NOT a "failure". A massive leak (oil pouring out) which forces you to park it until fixed IS a "failure". Examples of known seal failures (there may be others):
If you HAVE experienced such "major" failure, select a poll choice, and please add a post below, describing the failure mode & symptoms (or link to an existing discussion on your seal). PHOTOS OF THE SEAL & CRANK SURFACE ARE BEST (if you have any). If you know approximately when the seal was made and/or installed, that's a big bonus. And, if you KNOW what type seal was installed in the engine before rebuild, please say so. Genuine "Victor" brand seal (part no. "800093" moulded-in):   Victor "design" seal (looks like the Victor but w/out the fabric surface): "other" design (like more modern "lip" seals w/thin-line contact): Sean
Edited by sean - 18 Sep. 2011 at 3:15pm |
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ovrlnd
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Joined: 18 Feb. 2008 Location: MIchigan Status: Offline Points: 1746 |
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Posted: 31 July 2011 at 12:33am |
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sean, I would like to put input here for you. but am not sure how to classify my woes. the vintage victor I removed was simply old and worn out. then the victor design failure but until it tore was happy with it.
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sean
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Posted: 31 July 2011 at 2:47pm |
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I'd say wait until you've put enough miles/hours on it to be satisfied that's it's good. If it doesn't fail, then you know the 1st. one was "operator error".  Sean
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ovrlnd
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Posted: 31 July 2011 at 3:27pm |
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sounds like a plan
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Pat T.
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Joined: 14 Feb. 2006 Location: Central IL Status: Offline Points: 675 |
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Posted: 27 Aug. 2011 at 10:11pm |
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Sean
I have put about 15 hours of driving time on the seal that I got for Walcks. It looks like the bottom seal that looks like a Victor but not fabric. Some of the speeds where slower but most of the time was 40 mph. So far the seal does not seem to be leaking. As I have said in my other post when you and Alan where helping me I have had the crank reground and with new rod and main bearings. It may be to early to tell but so far it is good. Pat |
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sean
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Posted: 28 Aug. 2011 at 1:45pm |
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Thanks Pat!
I see too, someone posted a "failure" but added no details
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Gunslinger
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Joined: 10 Feb. 2010 Location: Minneapolis Status: Offline Points: 573 |
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Posted: 17 Sep. 2011 at 5:15pm |
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That was probably me, sorry, yeh the seal lasted a whole 5 minutes, took out the rods, main and crank, blew crap all over the inside of the motor and that took out the second set of bearings, even after a major cleaning. its been awful.
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Gunslinger
50 CJ3A, M38A1 |
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sean
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Posted: 18 Sep. 2011 at 3:20pm |
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How did it "fail"? Overheat & crank seizure? or did it tear or fall apart? Got any photos?
I don't quite see how that would happen, since the seal is outside of the crankcase. Can you elaborate?
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Oilleaker1
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Joined: 06 Sep. 2011 Location: Black Hills, SD Status: Offline Points: 4412 |
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Posted: 19 Sep. 2011 at 7:04pm |
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The victor brand failure I had, was after I fit the crank without it, it turned by two fingers while assembling. It locked when I installed the seal. The other seal in the kit was rope, it turned noticeably harder, but not bad. Check yours this way before you run your engine! John
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Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!
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sean
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Posted: 20 Sep. 2011 at 2:19pm |
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That's a sure indication that something is wrong. The crank should still turn freely with the seal installed. Do you still have that seal? Would be worth examining to see if it could be identified as a "defective" one. This is one of the common failure "mode" reports on other forums. Installing the seal made the crank difficult/impossible to turn. Not knowing any better, they continued with the rebuild, only to have the rear main seize. An excessively tight seal is a guaranteed failure. Sean |
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Oilleaker1
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Posted: 21 Sep. 2011 at 12:51am |
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Sean that was two engines ago. The seal went in the garbage. It was the wide type that extends rearward over the lip and had a slight fabric look to the surface that contacts the crankshaft seal surface. sorry, no picture. JOHN
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Green Disease, Jeeps, Old Iron!
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Dez
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Joined: 05 May 2008 Location: Pinedale, WY Status: Offline Points: 774 |
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Posted: 07 June 2012 at 3:47pm |
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I used the victor seal which came in a felpro box, I siliconed the crap out of it and put it in. I put 4,000mi~ and Ive since sold it. The previous owner still drives it around but rarely hes probably put 500~miles on it and the only oil leak he complains about is out of the front gear cover on the engine! I didnt know that guys were having trouble with the victor gasket or i would of probably went with the rope style seal.
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scoutpilot
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Posted: 28 July 2012 at 9:57pm |
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Sean; I just finished disassembling a ’46 motor. Rope seal with dowels. Rear main was difficult to remove without wood wedges. Interior of the motor is red so I am assuming it was rebuilt at some point, perhaps a couple of times because the pistons are .060. From what I could see, rear main was dry as a bone on the outside.
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ovrlnd wrote: