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Restoring cj2a 59108 into mb tribute WWII

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a4cj2a77 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote a4cj2a77 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2016 at 1:19am
Got to love your ingenuity and approach to problem solving. You're doing great and moving along at a nice clip. Always of interest to watch your progress.
Phil
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Gil View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2016 at 1:46am
Cal.bar for the letters and numbers on the hood I personalized it.CM means Canadian Military,30 would have been the age of our first son Michael who passed at the young age of 4. 27 is the age of my daughter Vickie and 21 is the age of Patrick my son.That will be their age in 2017 ( hopefully when the jeep is done )
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec. 2016 at 4:15pm
This is the way I restored all my tags.Serial number tag,transmission tag etc...I cleaned the tag with brake cleaner and a small brass wire brush.After I spray painted the tag and dry I used 600 grit and wet sand.It's make the tags more readable.Pictures to come soon.

Edited by Gil - 18 Apr. 2017 at 2:08am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cal.bar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan. 2017 at 12:04am
Originally posted by Gil Gil wrote:

Cal.bar for the letters and numbers on the hood I personalized it.CM means Canadian Military,30 would have been the age of our first son Michael who passed at the young age of 4. 27 is the age of my daughter Vickie and 21 is the age of Patrick my son.That will be their age in 2017 ( hopefully when the jeep is done )
 
LOVE IT.  I did the same thing on my MB clone.  Started with 20 and then used my son's date of birth.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan. 2017 at 2:43am
I wanted a rotisserie so I took my engine stand and my brother's engine stand.It's not perfect but it does work ok. For the front I bolted pieces of angle iron to the front toe board body support. I welded a angle iron to both pieces. For the back I bolted 2 pieces of angle iron where the hinges are to give me a gap between body and the piece of angle iron I welded on. So when it's time to paint,the paint will be able to go behind the angle iron. I wanted to use a rotisserie for undercoating, painting, wiring, installing gauges etc...before installing tub to frame.I didn't want to modify engine stand height to get rotisserie to turn 360, It doesn't need to.I also replace 1 bottom piece of one engine stand with a longer pieces to make it more stable.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan. 2017 at 11:24pm
Wow! Two engine stands for a turn fixture another great idea. Beautiful looking welds too! Been meaning to ask about the epoxy you used on the steering wheel, what type? is it like body filler? or more of a glue? thanks Joe Wadoyado
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2017 at 12:33am
Joe ,what I used to repair my steering wheel is J-B Weld.When I used it I waited 24 hours before sanding ,it worked really good .Hope it holds .It seem to bond really good .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rmneal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan. 2017 at 6:35am
Great job!  Love the steering wheel.  I'm gonna follow your lead on my wheel.  I did the engine stand rotisserie thing as well.  Works well, stores well, and most importantly - it's cheap!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2017 at 1:54am
Just a little update ,I been working on the tub to get it ready for paint,I repaired a few extra holes in the dash and firewall.I also installed the handles,footman loops,top bow brackets,axe bracket etc...


Edited by Gil - 18 Feb. 2017 at 2:21am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2t2-crash Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2017 at 3:09am
Damn, that looks good!
I'm making an MB clone as well.

What are you doing about the gas tank in order to have the flat side and tool detentes?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2017 at 4:32am
Originally posted by 2t2-crash 2t2-crash wrote:

Damn, that looks good!
I'm making an MB clone as well.

What are you doing about the gas tank in order to have the flat side and tool detentes?
Look on page 3.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2t2-crash Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2017 at 4:50am
Yeah I just went back and saw it.

I might follow your footsteps in my build.


ETA: did you hand make your tool cutouts?

Also how are you getting your weld seams to disappear so well?

Edited by 2t2-crash - 04 Feb. 2017 at 5:21am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2017 at 5:04pm
Originally posted by 2t2-crash 2t2-crash wrote:

Yeah I just went back and saw it.

I might follow your footsteps in my build.


ETA: did you hand make your tool cutouts? I have some picture on pages 2 and 4 of what I did.

Also how are you getting your weld seams to disappear so well?
Lots of grinding ,dollying and body work .For the floor were I had to cover the weld I used a product called Metal 2 Metal it's a metal reinforced body filler.

Edited by Gil - 04 Feb. 2017 at 7:49pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2t2-crash Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2017 at 8:25pm
Sweet, thanks.
I'm using a flux core welder so it looks less than ideal, plus I'm still learning how to improve my panel lineup so some spots are a little off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2017 at 9:58pm
Flux core will work but a MIG welder using gas will do a much cleaner job and if you want to get obsessed, go to a TIG.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2017 at 10:19pm
I welded in a toolbox of a M38 ,I did not install a seal for the door, I went with a drain with a pipe.I used a 3/8" pipe with a flare and solder in place.It should be ok to drain the water.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb. 2017 at 11:04pm
That's one way to do it but some later Jeeps had a drain on the back side of the rim around the tool box lid area. I was down in Durango and had to help a friend to find it and clean it out on his CJ5.
uncamonkey
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb. 2017 at 7:15pm
Finally the last piece of body work to do. The windshield . It will need some work to make it look half decent.The frame is broken and rusted.I will have to replace some pieces of sheet metal . I started making a patch for the bottom right corner.I used the socket to help me reshape the convex and before I weld the piece in place I will use Zinc Weld Thru Coating.I also use the torch to heat the sheet metal to help me shape it easier.Before I can weld it in place I would like to sandblast the windshield,but it's to cold lately,I will have to wait for warmer weather .

Edited by Gil - 05 Feb. 2017 at 7:30pm
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