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split rivet tool

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lowenuf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lowenuf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: split rivet tool
    Posted: 24 Sep. 2009 at 9:14pm
ok, i have searched until i am blue in the face....
 
wasn't there a thread just a few days ago involving a tool someone made to set the split rivets with?
 
did the tool mimic the "humps" on the split arms when they are separated for installation?
 
thx, low
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocketeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep. 2009 at 9:39pm
You might be thinking of this thread on the G503 forum:

http://www.g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=149680&hilit=split+rivet+tool

I did it a little different. I took an old pair of pliers, welded a gob on the inside face of one jaw, and ground the gob into a pyramid shape. Squeeze the rivet with the "pyramid" spreading the split in the rivet. Worked like a champ. I can't post a pic as I "re-adjusted" those pliers into something else again.

Larry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveyK01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep. 2009 at 9:43pm
Originally posted by lowenuf lowenuf wrote:

ok, i have searched until i am blue in the face....
 
wasn't there a thread just a few days ago involving a tool someone made to set the split rivets with?
 
did the tool mimic the "humps" on the split arms when they are separated for installation?
 
thx, low


I used C-CLAMP Vise Grips once I got the rivet tails split.
Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BorderBrewer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep. 2009 at 9:55pm
Ditto on the C clamp vise grips. I bought a cheap pair at Harbor freight. They already have the pyramid shape. Worked well while installing the welting with the grill still on the vehicle.
Regards,
BorderBrewer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lowenuf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep. 2009 at 10:12pm
thx Larry, that is the thread i was thinking of......
 
apparently i didn't explain myself well enough in regards to appearance of a finished rivet....
 
the rivets will be holding the grill welting.....
 
and if you have ever looked at the underside of the grill with any original welting and rivets left, you will see what i am talking about trying to achieve ( i know, i am starting to get anal)....
 
when the tabs bend over, it is like each one is bent over a small nail, then the nail is removed, leaving both tabs arched in an "M" shape like the McDonald's arches...
 
i will probably end up just setting mine flat..
 
thx....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote westforkboyd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep. 2009 at 10:58pm
Low
 
For the love of God whatever you do don't reach under someone elses grill, feel the rivets and say "what ya do use a pair of pliers on these"?
 
WFB
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lowenuf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Sep. 2009 at 8:09am
lol...i only found this little feature while stripping down a grill for resale.....i had never seen this before, and sure enough, on a second grill, the rivets were installed the same way...lol
 
 
i know i know.....who in the world will ever see the underside of the lip on the grill top.. :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Howard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Sep. 2009 at 9:03am
Mike,
I hate to say this but...I bent the rivets on the CJ as you are describing. I found they don't hold as tight without that arch. Otherwise they tend to allow the welting to move around. Actually,as funny as it sounds, it is the proper way to install them in my opinion because of how they were originaly done. At least that is how they were done on mine. Smile And ,Mike, Unfortunately I would look at the staples under your grill, especially now that you have made it an issue.Wink
Edit: I wanted to add that the staples that hold the 'hair' to the grill for the radiator are also bent in this fashion for the same reasons.
Maybe 'anal' is a proper description for trying to duplicate this but in honesty, much of what is done to restore these CJs by us is. In this case it is also a practical technique to duplicate.
Good Morning.


Edited by Howard - 25 Sep. 2009 at 9:20am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Sep. 2009 at 9:30am
Originally posted by lowenuf lowenuf wrote:

i know i know.....who in the world will ever see the underside of the lip on the grill top.. :)
 
 
You know, I actually had a somewhat similar thought when there was a discussion of what the "correct" axles to use inside the front axles housings for a 2A versus a 3A were but. well, I uh, didn't say anything...Wink
 
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lowenuf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Sep. 2009 at 9:38am

thx Howard :)

 
i just wonder if using a pair of snap ring pliers, with small guage tips would work in bending the staples and rivets over?  might have to practice this....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote westforkboyd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Sep. 2009 at 10:18am
Roc
 
I read that too and thought that guy really comes up with some stupid ideas.
 
Howard
 
How did you accomplish making those arches?
 
The first time we went to JC I had shortly before bought the welting kit and saw how the originals were done on Mule so was going around looking at others who had replaced their welting seeing how they bent their rivits. Never forget walking over to the military side and looking at a nicely redone Air Force M38. When I asked the gentleman the pliers question he gave me the look and replied "How the hell would you do it then".....OOOOOOPS...I'm good at blurting out my thoughts because that kind of thing dosn't bother me too much.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dwloop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Sep. 2009 at 10:31am
Seems to me that a person could purchase a small set of parallel face pliers, fab the block like on the g503 page and tack weld it to one side to bend them over in the arcs...
 
Is there enough room around the grille to get something like that in there? I have not replaced mine yet (You guys at JC probably were whispering about that Wink), I figured I would wait until body and paint to accomplish that, so I don't know...
 
Dave
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Howard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Sep. 2009 at 11:45am
Look at the common stapler for paper sheets that we all use. It has a die on the 'foot' to form the staple into this arch in order to fasten tightly and hold the paper tight. The die that is shown in the G thread works perfectly. This is an old idea I saw on the G several years ago.
I used and ruined a pair of vice grip pliers as has been described, welding a flat block with a slight counterbore on one jaw and the die on the other. I made the pieces from a piece of key stock prior to welding them to the jaws. Someone has the pliers that I had made in California.
The radiator welting, I first tried to fabricate the staples myself from 16 gauge stainless wire. They were to maleable and would not hold the shape. Ron Fitzpatrick has these staples and they are perfect.
 
I folded them over an awl to get the bend...a bent 6d finish nail would work. Smile Something similar.... The radiator pieces were more forgiving than the grill welting to get the right look. Unfortunately the new paint took a few hits during the process but I left the scratches. Blue tape  helps to reduce the carnage during the install. 
My opinion, This is a small bit of detail to reproduce to get the look....and  fairly visible parts in the Engine Compartment, at least a few of them are. Like many things in this effort, I think if it is done improperly or poorly then it shows more than if it is done correctly, The grill welting rivets will break if you try to bend them flat and the welting will be loose and shift around under the hood. My grill welting has settled into its form position and does not move. It has that nice used look and the rivets are still tight in the holes.
The radiator welting is trapped in there so it doesn't move much, except on the top, so do the top pieces/staples last after you have had some practice on the bottom and sides.
Mike, you could always use pop rivets and washers. They would be tight...Big smile 
No worries.
 
 
 


Edited by Howard - 25 Sep. 2009 at 12:34pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote westforkboyd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep. 2009 at 8:45am
Goofed around with some bar stock for an "anvil" to arch the rivits. Thought a worn wheel on my die grinder would make a nice radius. Still too big however and the arbor gets in the way when trying to reduce the radius. Next time into town I'll look for a small cutting wheel of some sort for the correct radius. Thought it would be simple, two small divits with a parting wheel and done. The idea might still be sound, just need a smaller diameter wheel.
 
WFB
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob in Orlando Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2009 at 7:56pm
Speaking of grill welting - I recently purchased mine from Walcks and it came with two small extra pieces.  I do not see where it attaches to the grill.   Can you tell me where it attaches? 
Bob

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote westforkboyd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2009 at 8:09pm

Bob

Well everyone claims those are for the two angled parts that go off of the grill. There are two holes in them. Seen many put the welting there so now they are including them in the kits huh? 
 
I have my doubts though. First they are not on the same plane as the top of the grill. The hood would never touch them there. Second I've looked at pretty unmolested 2As and nothing is there. I know some will disagree but I believe it has evolved like an urban legend that they were welted.
 
But if you want to that's where people put those two shorties.
 
WFB
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lowenuf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2009 at 9:13pm
Originally posted by westforkboyd westforkboyd wrote:

Bob

Well everyone claims those are for the two angled parts that go off of the grill. There are two holes in them. Seen many put the welting there so now they are including them in the kits huh? 
 
I have my doubts though. First they are not on the same plane as the top of the grill. The hood would never touch them there. Second I've looked at pretty unmolested 2As and nothing is there. I know some will disagree but I believe it has evolved like an urban legend that they were welted.
 
But if you want to that's where people put those two shorties.
 
WFB
 
1949 Parts List:
 
GROUP 14-03  COOLING- RADIATOR GUARD
 
663520    LINER    HOOD    RADIATOR GROUP
 
663522    LINER    HOOD    RADIATOR GROUP   LEFT SIDE (up to Serial #118630)
 
663521    LINER    HOOD    RADIATOR GROUP   RIGHT SIDE (up to Serial # 118630)
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote westforkboyd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Sep. 2009 at 9:31pm
Thanks Mike
 
Must have taken them twenty thousand 2As to realize that don't touch the hood. When is that, '47?
 
Embarrassed
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